P1126 Code; Concern for Used Vehicle Purchase? (1 Viewer)

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I took a 2000 LC for inspection before purchase. During that the CEL came on. After returning to the Toyota dealership the salesman said the code had to do with "roll stability". That sounds like a bigger problem than I had hoped, especially since on Friday the dealership was saying they had no margin for additional refurbishment and yet today they are willing to fix that and a few other things I brought up as well (windscreen chips and sticky driver door lock).

All of that will take until this Friday to repair. Almost seems like they want to get it sold to a willing party ASAP before other problems show up. The previous owners traded it in with a decal showing Costco had installed new tires only 3 months ago, which makes it seem they weren't intending to get rid of it.

Contacted them again for the specific code and, "The code is P1126. It's for a server motor for the throttle body." Searching leads me to discussions ranging from Throttle Control Motor replacement to exhaust problems suggesting O2 sensors and/or CAT replacement.

Is this a big enough issue to be a concern when purchasing a used vehicle that will be taken off road?

The secondary inspector did say that, although it is not a concern at the time, the exhaust is pretty much all fused together from rust that would require replacing everything from the manifold back, including CATs ($2-3k job). Other than that though the vehicle has essentially zero rust. He said that was to be expected along with the worn suspension given the vehicle age. Acceleration and shifting all seem fine.

I will also mention that there is no record of timing belt replacement, currently ~175k miles. But my understanding is that would be a sudden catastrophic failure with no real prior symptoms.

Thanks for your input!
 
Usually it's the throttle body or wiring going to it. I have personal experience with that code on an Infiniti I used to own. It's one of the codes that can leave you stranded as the ECM will basically stop responding to accelerator inputs and go into a limp home mode (and limp is like 20 MPH on an Infiniti).

Timing belts just break suddenly usually with zero warning. Lots of tales in these forums of people buying the 4.7L V8 with 300K+ miles and the original timing belt but I sure wouldn't drive it that way.
 
It's likely the 00LC was sold due to issues that came up recently. PO elected to sell rather than spend $ to fix. This is often the case with trade-in at dealerships, PP or any sale of used vehicle. Most often seller clears the codes. Condition must re-accrue 3 times to set off the CEL. But if bones are good, it's all fixable.

Have inspected by Land cruiser specialist. This will give you good idea of what to expect.

Inspect, inspect, inspect
 
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I appreciate the feedback.

A timing belt replacement is something I have always intended to do immediately, it was mentioned for full disclosure.

I have had the vehicle inspected, which is how I know of the current problems.

Most importantly, is there a way for me to trigger this code if it turns out all they did was clear it without any repair? A particular way to drive it to stress/test the component?
 
Typically a DTC/codes will be set off if condition repeats itself consecutively 3 times.

So start, drive and shut down 3 times. Driving is more for transmission and speed sensors issues.

In some case a certain set of driving condition must be present:
I've one now that will not just happen, without driving high mountain passes.
Or it takes very hot or cold OAT condition.
Or engine must reach OP temp, then cool down for 8 hours before each start and drive. This deals with time engine takes to reach OP temp.
 

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