P0335 and P1340 - Thoughts? (1 Viewer)

[markthegrea]

I've got a 2005 GX with 232,000 miles and have had intermittent P0335 fautls for about 6 months. I swapped out the Crank sensor for a new one but that doesn't seem to have helped.

10/12/22 - got a P0335 and cleared it.
12/17/22 - got a P0335 and cleared it.
1/31/23 - got a P0335 and cleared it.
2/10/23 - got a P0335 and cleared it. - Checked and cleaned the crank sensor.
3/3/23 - got a P0335 and cleared it.- new Lexus crank sensor - got P0335 code the next day
5/6/23 - got a P0335 - I didn't clear it right away. I took the GX to get air in the tires and it would not start twice then it started and has been fine. Checked the codes and had a P1340

These are all the codes that I got during that time. (as in an exhaustive list.)

So you can see it is very intermittent.

P0335 Lexus Code - Crankshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit
P1340 Lexus Code - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Bank 1 Sensor 2

So I have been using a local guy to do the work (I do most of it. I hate doing zerks.) He did the last timing belt change 50k ago and changed the crank sensor for me. He said he checked the wring and it was ok.

My googling has had little results. There is almost nothing on the P1340. The P0335 is more common and is usually the wiring.

Here is the question. Should I try the local guy again or go to the dealer?

I understand that these are hard to track down and suspect that the dealer might have better diagnostic tools than my local guy. The local guy is great but I am not sure he is up to this. I am heading out west in 2.5 weeks and need this thing fixed.

Thoughts?

 

[markthegrea]

A couple of weeks ago I took it to Lexus. It was a bit of a bizzaro experience at first. They sit you down in a cubical (for a repair?) and assign you an associate. Boy, I have never been treated better. I asked the guy if it would be possible to talk to a mechanic. He said yes and rushed out the door to get someone. I was not really expecting much but that was not my experience.

They guy that showed up was in his 50's and new everything! He said bring it in on Friday and I can take a look before we open. He said since it was running it was probably not as serious as I thought. It might be a pinched wire and he could check by moving the wire back and forth where it goes under the cover (the crank wire goes behind a cover). Or it might be a faulty wire.

I brought it in on friday and later that day they called. I showed up and had a great talk with him. He said the wire was not pinched but had too much resistance. A new harness would be more than the vehicle was worth but the wire itself could be replaced with "microphone" wire. But he assured me that since it started and ran fine it was probably not urgent and even said wait til it gets worse. I suggested when I get the timing belt changed next I could do it but he said it might not be necessary.

So, I AM looking into fixing the wire. I do have some questions. It seems nobody wants to touch this topic but here goes:

1. Do I need to replace the wire all the way back to the ECU? It looks like the harness has a connector in the engine bay. Could I just go back to there and splice in a new wire?

2. I think I would leave the old wire just in case, So I can get a new female connector and splice in the wires? Seems right.

3. I should run the wire in the same place, but of course, there is a cover. Anyone reroute this?

Anyone have part numbers or advice?

 

[Rednexus]

I've had to replace several sensor wiring connectors on my Lexus, including for one of the knock sensors, the MAF, and the ECT sensor (plus fuel injector pigtails). In my experience it's usually the connector and first few inches of the wiring that is messed up, so replacing that has fixed my various issues. I've bought the connectors online (usually aftermarket) and just splice them in with heat shrink connectors and re-wrap that portion of the harness with new wire loom and/or electrical tape. These repairs have held up fine and are super-easy to DIY.

The connectors on these rigs are getting pretty old, it's very common to damage them when doing something like a timing belt job. So just the act of unhooking the connector probably broke it when your TB was replaced.

 

[GXO]

I believe I remember a LOOONG time ago where a member was having this code and nothing was working. He went through the sensor replacement, I believe he did work on wiring and harnesses. Resealed the cams, etc. Still got codes. He ended up replacing the phaser rings on the front and it solve the issue. Something about the rings wore out. I am trying to find it but it resulted in a mechanical variance that allowed for a sensor warning but no detectable engine issues aside from what you described. If I find it I will post here.

 

[markthegrea]

What is a phaser ring?

 

[GXO]

What is a phaser ring?

It's the gear on the end of the cam adjustment that you line up during a timing belt job.

edit: just called a phaser apparently.

 

[wikdz06]

Did you ever get this issue resolved?

This is happening on my 04 GX, 176K. Truck runs perfect, not sure why these are showing up. I did clear the code and they came back on within 1 mile of driving.

 

[markthegrea]

I did not. We have decided to upgrade to a GX460 (2010).

I did have another thought, though. Maybe you should check the ground? I am not sure how the tech tested the harness but it could have been through the ground. Or maybe not.

Here is what the dealer said (the "Multiple Codes" where all TPMS):

REPAIR NUMBER: 6002128
REPORTED BY: Lexus of Peoria

SERVICE: CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
DESCRIPTION: ~|~CHECK ENGINE LIGHT - DIAGNOSIS - C/S: CEL ~|~CHECK VEHICLE HAS MULTIPLE CODES IN SYSTEM CLEAR ALL CODES CHECK SIGNAL FROM CRANK SENSOR TO ECU WORKING PROPERLY CHECK HARNESS HAS SLIGHT HIGH RESISTANCE IN HARNESS NO REPAIR AT THIS TIME ~|~SEE FIRST LINE

 

[wikdz06]

Ok, thank you for the fast update.

I'm taking it over to the Toyota dealer tomorrow, see what they say.

I'll update later.

 

[wikdz06]

Ok, took it to the Toyota dealer, it they said it was all caused by "P0031" code which was due to an O2 sensors, precat/ passenger side. They also wanted $750 to swap it! I said no thanks bought the part "89465-60150". It literally took 15 mins to swap out. Cleared the code, 8 miles later the same code came back.

Maybe its the driver side? Any ideas? The truck literally drives fine but I have a check engine light, VSC Trac, VSC Off lights on.

Any ideas?

Edit, after a little more research is the above the correct sensor? I'm seeing "89467-71020" come up.

 

[markthegrea]

I think you need to transfer to this thread:

Catalytic converters for a Gx470

I've been having issues with my GX for the past couple of weeks. Two weekends ago I replaced the alternator and now I'm getting codes for bad catalytic converters. The right is completely stopped up and the left is almost stopped up. This was verified at a shop that ran diagnostic testing on it...

forum.ih8mud.com

You are having Cat issues, not Crank Sensor issues. I had those as well and I think I posted over there. Here is the overview:

My GX has had issues since 120k with cats. The codes would come and go. When the code appears, all three lights on the dash go on. This is not a big deal as those systems still work, they are just not getting up to date info (a lexus tech told me this). The general opinion is to replace the sensors, then replace the cats (if you have the dollars) or buy Bungs.

Now yours is a bit different because I believe your codes are Pre-Cat, which means that I think Bungs won't work. The sensors are hard to get to as they are behind the engine and not under the truck. If you changed them in 15 mins, you are an acrobat.

I don't know much about the Pre-cat ones. They sense for polutants and then the downstream ones test the Cat (so before and after). The Pre-cat sensors also control the fuel mixture to the engine and those are important. Again, they will use historical settings if they don't work, but that is not so great. The Post-cat sensors are just checking the temperature and O2 of the exahust stream after the cats, so not as important.

Good luck!

 

[white_lx]

"P0031" code which was due to an O2 sensors, precat/ passenger side.

P0031 is referring to S1B1 (sensor 1, bank 1). That would be the driver side on the V8. You may have changed out the wrong side?

Regarding part numbers. Look on partsouq.com and enter your VIN. That is the most reliable method to verify part numbers. Toyota changed over from a oxygen sensor to an air fuel sensor for sensor 1 on both banks from around 2005.

(Btw, if you did change out the (pre-cat) manifold sensor in 15 min, I would apply at a dealership.)

 

[Rednexus]

I've found the cheapest place for O2 sensors to be Rockauto. The Denso sensors are the same as OEM. O2 sensors have a finite life span, I'd replace by 125-150k even if they don't have obvious issues.

 

[wikdz06]

Yeah the part number was correct "89465-60150", it was the same as the o2 sensor I pulled off from the factory.

So yeah maybe it is the driver side. Gonna check this weekend.

 

[white_lx]

You can check the oxygen sensor heater by measuring the resistance. Spec is: 11 − 16 Ω at 20°C (68°F). For P0031 one would expect a higher resistance, maybe even open. Measure between the two wires with the same color (probably black).

If the sensor you replaced is within spec, it is very likely that you replaced the wrong one. There is always the odd chance that the problem is in the wiring. Double check there is no contact between the exhaust and the oxygen sensor wiring.

 

[wikdz06]

Guys, quick update.

I switched the passenger side instead of the driver side. After I swapped the driver side with "89465-60150" the lights haven't been back.