Oyaji's FJ60 (2 Viewers)

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I spent all the spare time I had this weekend TRYING to get all the crap off of the head. That siamesed manifold mess on the driver's side just plain sucks. At this point, I have a friend who used to have an FJ55 with a Chevy V8, and he's telling me it'll be the best thing I can do to put one in. I've read A LOT of the conversion posts here, and I'm inclined to agree with him. I guess we'll see what happens once I finally get this head off. Half of me hopes I get hot headed and say "screw it", but the other half says "don't be a dumb ass."

I've got to find some people around me to help turn some wrenches...
 
Onward and upward.

One thermostat housing bolt broke off in the front of the head. I finally got the manifolds broken loose, valve cover off, rocker assy off and pushrods out. The valve cover had "vaseline" all in the top of it, so this work was absolutely necessary. When removing the head bolts, the exhaust side ones were all VERY hard to break loose, and one of the head bolts broke off in the block. When I took the radiator/fan out the other day, I found sludge all over the front of the engine. After talking to a local Cruiser head, it looks as if the engine was steam cleaned prior to sale, and the front sludge is what couldn't be gotten to.

I will NOT pour money into this engine. Just a head is acceptable, but when I pull the block (necessary to get the broken head bolt out), it won't be going back in. I'll be picking up a sub 100k early Vortec engine and putting it in. This may turn out to be more money than fixing the 2F, but at least my "bang for the buck" will be measurable in positive values.

This is absolutely the LAST thing I wanted to do when I purchased this rig, but it is what it is. I'll post pictures of the damage once I get the head off the block. Does anyone out there care to try and talk me out of losing my mind and going V8? I'm going to do some searching, but does anyone who has used the Mark's SBC to 4-spd bell housing kit have anything negative to say about it? I read that if may not be a good idea to use this bell housing in place of repositioning the transmission, but haven't seen anything definitive.
 
V8

First, your PM box is full !!!
I read a good thread called LOOKING FOR A DIFINITIVE GUIDE
FOR VORTEC SWAP.
by NLXTACY. It was on pg. 4 of the forums.
It has a lot of good imfo.
Jim from (DOWNEY) toyota has a free V8 swap guide.
If you cant get it from him let me know and I will copy
the one I have and send it to you.
how come you need to pull the block to get the broken bolt out?
anyway good luck, keep in touch.
RAMZ:popcorn:
 
Keep the 2F unless the block is cracked.

It can be fixed for cheaper than a V8 and you will learn more.

Compression numbers sound too high for the head gasket to be blown.

I'm thinking the Oil Cooler is letting coolant into the oil. The only other way is if a freeze plug had fallen out in the side cover but that's not likely.
 
Compression numbers sound too high for the head gasket to be blown.

I agree with you, if the gasket were compromised between a water passage and a combustion chamber. If the gasket has failed, it will be between a water and oil passage directly in this case. There may also be a crack in the block, although highly unlikely.

I'm thinking the Oil Cooler is letting coolant into the oil. The only other way is if a freeze plug had fallen out in the side cover but that's not likely.

I agreed with you here, as well, but discussed my testing method in post #8. It is not faulty.

Thanks for the input, though.

RAMZ,

Thanks. I cleared out some messages just now. I got a few while I was at the soccer game this evening. I read the thread you mentioned already. Lots of good info there. I also got a copy of the Downey book from Jim just a couple of days ago (thanks for the offer). Good info in there, too, but the book recommends against using the Mark's kit. The revision of the book I have was '06, though, and I think the kit has proven itself by now, or AA wouldn't still be selling it. As far as pulling the block to remove the broke a$$ head bolt, well, I don't think the machinist will take it out while it's still in the rig.

I'm still trying to make up my mind regarding what to do with this thing. I should have pics of the head up tomorrow morning.
 
Well I hope you figure out whats wrong with it. Pretty unusual symptoms on a 2F.
 
Today, I got the head off. I don't see any immediate signs of head/gasket failure. I just don't know...

All of these pairs of pictures show cylinders 1/2/3 in the first picture and 4/5/6 in the second.

Top of head gasket
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Bottom of same
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DSCF0985.JPG


Head
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DSCF0987.JPG


Block
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DSCF0989.JPG
 
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Once I got the head off, I couldn't do much else without making a big decision to take the plunge and pull the rest of the original engine out, so I decided to do some "fun" stuff. I had a set of Hunsaker seats and a Grant steering wheel, so I got busy putting them in.

I have very long legs for a 6' guy. I wasn't comfortable with the seats at the stock height, so I had some custom 2" brackets bent up at my favorite metal shop. I had some flat bar cut down and drilled as spacers so the factory sliders could work properly, and bolted everything to the factory mounting holes. I LOVE these seats and the revised seating position.

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As for the steering wheel, I noticed that there was a good layer of crap on the original wheel while driving it home on the day I bought it. I wasn't to happy about grabbing on that all the time, and with the higher seat height, the original one was really close to my legs. I grabbed the Grant wheel off the shelf in my garage and put it in the Cruiser. I have GREAT gauge visibility with my seat height and think this will be a very comfortable driving configuration. I'm sure it may be a little tough to turn at a standstill once I put 33s on, but it'll be ok.

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I purchased a Tuffy stereo security console from my local parts house and worked on getting it into position but ran out of time. I'll post pics of it in place once I get it in there. I will say that the top pad is at the perfect height for my arm to rest on and be ready to shift. I'm VERY happy with these upgrades as a whole. Now before anyone goes off talking about how I should get it running before making it comfortable, let me just say that, with the exception of the Tuffy box, I had all this stuff sitting around from previous projects. I hope someone here enjoys seeing this stuff.
 
Me, too. Don't get any ideas...the 3rd member deal we worked is done, buddy...:D
 
Nothing to contribute here, but just wanted to wish you the best of luck with your truck, Jon!

Mot (An "oyaji" myself! :hillbilly:)
 
third

done deal, I will hold it for you.:cheers:
are you going to magnaflex the head?
I mean while you got it off and all.
 
galley plug?

I know this has been gone over before but, what is the purpose
of going over the galley plug.
I have read this before but dont know why.
 
From what I gather, it's because that little plug can blow out, and your oil will evacuate the system quickly when it does.

I'm beginning prep for pulling the rest of the block. I made a payment on a major purchase today and will fill in the details when I have confirmation of its delivery. It's all downhill from here...

Thanks for the continued support/comments. It keeps me going.
 
Yes indeedy, the galley plug can blow out and all your engine oil will pump down the side of your engine behind the distributor and if you don't catch it your engine will be toast. So if yours is loose, or if you have the head out, now is the time. See the galley plug fixes thread in the FAQ section.
 
I've read it. Thanks Erik.
 
Well, the 2F is finally out. The engine bay is pretty clean, but I'll steam clean it and the undercarriage in preparation for the 5.7 Vortec I have on the engine stand. A Howell harness/computer and Mark's adapter kit are en route. Next week I should get the rig delivered to Ron and Frank at Custom Cruisers in Gilroy to get the engine mounted and radiator fab started. I planned to keep the H41, but knowing that the trans and tcase will come out for the machining of the tailhousing for a custom reluctor ring, I'm fighting the desire to get an H55 in there. $2000 I don't really want to spend, but I hear they're awesome. Anyway, here are a couple of pics.

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I'll be starting a for sale thread, but I want this engine and all of its repair parts gone.
 
Good luck with the V8 swap. Don't know of anyone who hasn't liked theirs. Once you get the bugs worked out the power is worth it. Don't get me wrong the straight six is awesome for low end grunt but is lacking on the highway especially with an auto. If money wasn't an issue I would have put an H55 in mine as well but the engine I got already had an auto behind it an it was cheaper to just rebuild than go 5 speed.
 
...radiator fab started. ...

FYI I have a stock NEW 2F radiator in my 5.3 with Taurus electric fans and a/c BLOWS cold and keep motor cool even when its 100deg
 

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