Overhauling a set of HZJ73 axles (1 Viewer)

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The Woodlands, Texas
I just got up a pair of HZJ73 axles (Thanks to G&S, BEANZ and Mudrak) and I plan to overhaul them both from end to end.

I've heard that they take the same bearings and gaskets as a 40/60/minitruck - FJ80 seals - wipers specific to the HZJ73 and brake parts to fit a 1988+ V6 minitruck or 4Runner. Does this sound correct?

Other than rebuilding the hubs and brakes is there anything else that I should be replacing while I have them apart? Any other gaskets or seals? I'd rather not get too deep into the electric lockers but since I'm going to be disassebmbling the axles is there something else that I should deal with while I'm in there?

Thanks for the advice,

Patrick
 
Glad you like them, Patrick. Has the winch been picked up? Thanks for your help with it.

Liquid Offroad and Specter have aftermarket rebuild kits for the 1990-1999 front axles if you want to go that route. G&S has the individual factory parts if you want to keep "The Toyota Feeling". For the rear use all 80 series parts, except for the rotors. If you need new rotors (the ones you have seemed OK), G&S or any DBA dealer can get them for you.

I'd see what needs to be done to change the electric hubs to manual locking hubs as Dave says they break more easily than the manual ones.

The rear calipers are the same as 1993+ 80 series as are the parking brake parts. I'd at least take off the rotors and see how the park brake shoes look like. The bellcrank on the park brake usually need cleaning and regreasing.

I'd test the locker actuator as shown in the 80 series FSM. I think the procedure is not voltage dependent, but I'll check my 70 series manual and let you know.

Dave
 
69 Pigboy said:
I've heard that they take the same bearings and gaskets as a 40/60/minitruck - FJ80 seals - wipers specific to the HZJ73 and brake parts to fit a 1988+ V6 minitruck or 4Runner. Does this sound correct?

I'd suggest while you are tearing into it you at least expect everything you can. I wouldnt' just go in and replace everything unless it was in bad shape.

You'd be amazed at how many of the seals, bearings etc are in common among the cruisers and minis.
 
what I found that was amazing, was how nice everything is running in 20 year old grease, running with 270 000kms. it all looks like new, well the inside does, are you getting a leak or something, why replace?
 
beanz2 said:
I'd test the locker actuator as shown in the 80 series FSM. I think the procedure is not voltage dependent, but I'll check my 70 series manual and let you know.

To follow up on this subject, the FSM specifies 1.5V test voltage on 12V actuators and 3.0V on 24V ones. I wonder what if a 24V actuator is used as is on a 12V vehicle if 3.0V is sufficient to activate it?

Dave
 

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