Output Shaft Bearing Replacement

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You are one of the few I’ve seen on the forum that’s replaced this bearing. I’ve been told it’s a maintenance item to repack it. I’m sure mine has never been touched at 218,000 miles. Do you know what the symptoms are when these bearings wear out?
It's rare to see one of these failures. I'm gathering a whine or grinding noise from posts across the Toyota truck community that increases with speed.
If the bearing wears too much, expect a seal leak from excessive play or movement by the CV axle.

When I hear a noise I can't figure out, I use an old Steelman 6600 (wired) chassis ear to find the noise source. I think I paid $69 for it over ten years ago. I don't need an expensive wireless model. Once every two or three years, it saves a lot of diagnostic guesswork. Here's a demo of the wireless version.

 
It's rare to see one of these failures. I'm gathering a whine or grinding noise from posts across the Toyota truck community that increases with speed.
If the bearing wears too much, expect a seal leak from excessive play or movement by the CV axle.

When I hear a noise I can't figure out, I use an old Steelman 6600 (wired) chassis ear to find the noise source. I think I paid $69 for it over ten years ago. I don't need an expensive wireless model. Once every two or three years, it saves a lot of diagnostic guesswork. Here's a demo of the wireless version.


Thanks, makes sense. I don’t have a grinding noise- just a wah wah wah that is most noticeable now at 30MPHish. No diff lube leak, yet, but I will keep an eye out for it. I’m sure it will only get worse if it’s that bearing.
 
Thanks, makes sense. I don’t have a grinding noise- just a wah wah wah that is most noticeable now at 30MPHish. No diff lube leak, yet, but I will keep an eye out for it. I’m sure it will only get worse if it’s that bearing.
That's right.
 
Thanks, makes sense. I don’t have a grinding noise- just a wah wah wah that is most noticeable now at 30MPHish. No diff lube leak, yet, but I will keep an eye out for it. I’m sure it will only get worse if it’s that bearing.
I've also heard about noises coming from the brass bushing and needle-bearing area of the spindle. That area may be overlooked or misunderstood when the outer bearings are packed/serviced.

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I've also heard about noises coming from the brass bushing and needle-bearing area of the spindle. That area may be overlooked or misunderstood when the outer bearings are packed/serviced.

View attachment 3737179
I’ve heard the same. I had my front hubs apart last month and installed new wheel bearings and races. While everything was apart, I greased the sh$t out of the spindles with the Slee tool. That project did not change the wah wah wah. But, I was due for bearing service, anyway. Frustrated, I took truck to a reputable Mr T dealer in Indy. One of their Master techs bore scoped my front diff and said it looked like new- no ring gear teeth damage. I then installed new Yokohama ATs- still wah wah wah, but greatly diminished. I could write it off as tire noise, except for the light single metallic pop I occasionally hear. It sounds like there’s just enough play somewhere in front driveline to make something pop / clunk. That noise drove me to find the front drive shaft vertical play where it meets the tube and the play kind of mimics the pop noise. I might try the Steelman 6600 chassis ears to see if I can pick that noise up in that spot. I’m close to getting this thing to like new drivability and won’t give up:). If I pull drive shafts and diff tube to yank that output bearing, I’ll also pull knuckles to install new needle bearings and brass bushings. While I’m burning money, I might as well.
 
I’ve heard the same. I had my front hubs apart last month and installed new wheel bearings and races. While everything was apart, I greased the sh$t out of the spindles with the Slee tool. That project did not change the wah wah wah. But, I was due for bearing service, anyway. Frustrated, I took truck to a reputable Mr T dealer in Indy. One of their Master techs bore scoped my front diff and said it looked like new- no ring gear teeth damage. I then installed new Yokohama ATs- still wah wah wah, but greatly diminished. I could write it off as tire noise, except for the light single metallic pop I occasionally hear. It sounds like there’s just enough play somewhere in front driveline to make something pop / clunk. That noise drove me to find the front drive shaft vertical play where it meets the tube and the play kind of mimics the pop noise. I might try the Steelman 6600 chassis ears to see if I can pick that noise up in that spot. I’m close to getting this thing to like new drivability and won’t give up:). If I pull drive shafts and diff tube to yank that output bearing, I’ll also pull knuckles to install new needle bearings and brass bushings. While I’m burning money, I might as well.
I know the feeling. It's like trying to hold quicksilver to reach that perfect place.
 
I know the feeling. It's like trying to hold quicksilver to reach that perfect place.
On a positive note, I just crawled under it and found I’ve got some in/out play right behind the knuckle. My 2.2mm snap rings may not have been enough to close the gap and could be causing part of my issues. I’ll pop off the dust caps tomorrow and see if I can get a bigger ring in there. I used a puller right after whee bearing work, but maybe just needed some driving to work some of the excess grease around.
 
On a positive note, I just crawled under it and found I’ve got some in/out play right behind the knuckle. My 2.2mm snap rings may not have been enough to close the gap and could be causing part of my issues. I’ll pop off the dust caps tomorrow and see if I can get a bigger ring in there. I used a puller right after whee bearing work, but maybe just needed some driving to work some of the excess grease around.

For years, I've had great success using this puller tool. One of our members makes it. @TheForger

View attachment 3737426

I bought the same tool. Worked well…I drew the axle shaft out as far as I could. Biggest ring I could fit was 2.2. Some members have said 2.2 not enough. I might try pulling axle out with wheels on the ground, as that’s the position of the truck in which I can detect the in / out movement.
 
I bought the same tool. Worked well…I drew the axle shaft out as far as I could. Biggest ring I could fit was 2.2. Some members have said 2.2 not enough. I might try pulling axle out with wheels on the ground, as that’s the position of the truck in which I can detect the in / out movement.
I knew I went as far as I could go with the special tool b/c I started to bend the tool- not very robust steel.
 
I knew I went as far as I could go with the special tool b/c I started to bend the tool- not very robust steel.
How old is the tool? A later version may be out. Both sides of my OEM axles use the D-size snap rings that I get from Cruiser Outfitters.
 
How old is the tool? A later version may be out. Both sides of my OEM axles use the D-size snap rings that I get from Cruiser Outfitters.
Just purchased it from the MUD member off of his eBay listing- I think it was back in August. I’ve got some handy fab guys in the shop at my company. I might have one of them fab up a tool that’s more durable. Going to check my snap rings later today, hopefully. Also just ordered some Chassis Ears- the wired version. Looks like from reviews the wires version picks up on noises better than the wireless.
 
How old is the tool? A later version may be out. Both sides of my OEM axles use the D-size snap rings that I get from Cruiser Outfitters.
I know the feeling. It's like trying to hold quicksilver to reach that perfect place.
Out of curiosity, if you’re under your truck, can you push up on the front drive shaft where it enters the diff extension tube and see if you can detect any play? I’ve got the same up/down movement on both sides of the diff, so I’m thinking it may be normal?? I know the in/out play of the outboard shaft at the knuckle is not normal.
 
Out of curiosity, if you’re under your truck, can you push up on the front drive shaft where it enters the diff extension tube and see if you can detect any play? I’ve got the same up/down movement on both sides of the diff, so I’m thinking it may be normal?? I know the in/out play of the outboard shaft at the knuckle is not normal.
Flat on the pavement or when lifted on a jack stand?
 
Nice thread @OwnerCS.

IMHO. Some radial play between FDS and diff side tube, is normal!
I just checked for radial play, between FDS and DS diff tube. In one I just installed a new OEM FDS on a 250K 02LX. It has some radial play, which seems normal to me.

Setting snap ring gap, after driving to settle grease with tire/wheels on the ground or jack under LCA, holding weight of vehicle to push axle out. We only need to pull out on axle, with a 8x1.25 bolt.
PS (4).JPG

Axle needle bearings condition, are very hard to make the call if good or bad. Axle scoring, is best clue, in making the call. This FDS has ~2K miles on it. You can see where needle bearing rode and brass bushing butted.
Notice the scoring where needle bearing rides on axle. It's uneven shading for one and ride in narrow bands. Needle bearing was passed useful life.
Scored 2k on LH FDS 24-5-27 removed 23-12-8.JPEG


Longer story...

I had replaced the knuckle (due to some spindle thread damage), with a used one I had lying around. I did not replace needle bearing or brass bushing, as they looked okay, and I didn't have any new ones around that day. I also replaced FDS, diff outer seal, wheel bearings, checked brake pads & shims, etc.

I had a wah, wah, wah at low speed, afterward, that I hadden notice before. Maybe more of a sha, sha, sha like a rub. Likely present at higher speeds also, but perhaps just couldn't be heard over tire, wind, engine, etc. noises. It seem to be FR (front right).

I was really having trouble isolating the sound. So put on 4 jackstands. Put in D while idling. I crawled under with my stethoscope. Difficult call, but still, seemed to be front LH area at FDS.

I check brake pads & rotor, wheel bearing which were new, FDS outer seal and knuckle rear seal for rubbing, pulled knuckle and checked new FDS which seem fine but toss in another new OEM FDS. Still sound present.

I knew I had made the snap ring gap extremely tight. If fact, I had to tap in to seat in groove of axle. Tapping on having zero gap, is not a good idea. But the only thing that happens, is brass bushing wears until there is some gap. But thinking brass bushing may be making the rub sound. I checked gap after about 1K miles, which it now had some, before pulling knuckle again.

Note: Snap ring gao of >0.20mm, keeps FDS seal pulled into knuckle seal properly. Making water tight seal!

I had looked at outer axle of FDS, where needle bearing rode. It look okay at first. But later, I went back and reviewed the axle picture above, which only had 2K miles on it, I then saw, I missed the scoring. I replaced the needle bearing and sound gone, finally.

@abuck99 did the math some years ago, on expected life of wheel bearings (Timken data). IIRC, he came up with 250K miles. That is, if wheel bearings perfectly serviced. I find axle needle bearings, are almost never serviced (lubed).
 
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Tires on the ground and in normal parked stance.
No movement other than me being able to feel some micro fractional amount of play behind the CV boot from the Rzeppa ball and cage.


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The inner snaps into place with c-clip. I would need to use a pry bar to cause it to shift -- under load.


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No movement other than me being able to feel some micro fractional amount of play behind the CV boot from the Rzeppa ball and cage.


View attachment 3738129

The inner snaps into place with c-clip. I would need to use a pry bar to cause it to shift -- under load.


View attachment 3738130
Thanks…I just checked mine again. I’m going to say my small amount of play is in the cage area shown in your picture. Upon further investigation, it seems I may have a bit of up down play in the outboard shaft where it goes through knuckle. Toasted needle bearings / spindle?
 
Thanks…I just checked mine again. I’m going to say my small amount of play is in the cage area shown in your picture. Upon further investigation, it seems I may have a bit of up down play in the outboard shaft where it goes through knuckle. Toasted needle bearings / spindle?
Close examination to verify.
 

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