Opinions from the collective wisdom, AI & Starter replacement!

[jerryb]

Jerry you said: "I would buy the aftermarket 100$ pump if I had to do it again when I did the starter. " What interest me here is you'd install pump in hindsight. Why do you not like the bypass?

I don't like interrupting the maf signal, + I think it's ghetto to have a signal line from the relay for a trigger that travels all across the engine bay, see purple wire. + it's cheaper to replace whats needed then do the hewitt thing if you don't mind taking off the intake. they priced themselves out if you ask me.
South of interstate ten in the south the pump will run maybe 3-10 times a year. Watch this one video.
bmw might use a metal impeller**
For a southern car it seems a waste to keep the system intact. I like to keep things stock, except when the parts are inferior or extremely overpriced.

This video should have the same impeller, which is plastic I believe.
Buying the dorman, https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-306-0...qid=1501680237&sr=8-1&keywords=dorman+306-010 and taking whats needed off it seems like a no brainer for 90 dollars. No one would even know that motor might not be a denso.
Don't get me wrong. I still will/want to delete the whole thing.

I would not think you'd not have air in fuel rail. Could be clue!" I think you meant, I would not think you'd have air in a fuel return line.
If that's the case, I agree with you. It shouldn't be there. I don't believe.

 

[jerryb]

DP

 

[2001LC]

Jerry you said: "I would buy the aftermarket 100$ pump if I had to do it again when I did the starter. " What interest me here is you'd install pump in hindsight. Why do you not like the bypass?

I don't like interrupting the maf signal, + I think it's ghetto to have a signal line from the relay for a trigger that travels all across the engine bay, see purple wire. + it's cheaper to replace whats needed then do the hewitt thing if you don't mind taking off the intake. they priced themselves out if you ask me.
South of interstate ten in the south the pump will run maybe 3-10 times a year. Watch this one video.
bmw might use a metal impeller**
For a southern car it seems a waste to keep the system intact. I like to keep things stock, except when the parts are inferior or extremely overpriced.

This video should have the same impeller, which is plastic I believe.
Buying the dorman, Amazon.com: Dorman 306-010 Electric Pump: Automotive and taking whats needed off it seems like a no brainer for 90 dollars. No one would even know that motor might not be a denso.
Don't get me wrong. I still will/want to delete the whole thing.

I would not think you'd not have air in fuel rail. Could be clue!" I think you meant, I would not think you'd have air in a fuel return line.
If that's the case, I agree with you. It shouldn't be there. I don't believe.

View attachment 1508855

Jerry lets me first say I did mean air should not (Edited before coffee then edited back after, SORRY) be in rails. But I'm not sure it' just doesn't seem right. My thinking is fuel inject(s) would blow air momentary as air bubble hit, that's a no fuel condition (lean). I'm may be talking with Chuck today at FIS I'll ask for his thoughts. Air must be coming from recirculated junk, as I can't image any way in to fuel line from tank to fuel rial. The exception would be from fuel pump. I'd work backwards from rail down chain of return junk. But first start a thread on this too see if anyone knows for sure that air not normal.

Any way back to the AI & starter issue at hand.

You said: "The # 2 switching valves I would replace either unless they were bad." I assume you meant wouldn't!

As far as bypass mod:

I could not agree more, I'm firmly against this mod, for that matter any mod that may interfere with ECM's factory intent or program. I am pure stock whenever possible, and pure OEM. My thing is to take back to factory spec while doing restoration. I pull out most any aftermarket stuff I find on these projects. Slee install stuff is one of the few exceptions. I don't particularly like the AI set-up in the VVTi which seems to have a week spot (pump), but hey this rig has 194K and no issue reported with AI in it's history. It just I'm in the area and well either both or none is my thinking as well. Until the bypass are made legal for for street use I have issue. Until manufacture of bypass can give us a kit that completely removes AI junk, and passes the test of time, demonstrating no ill effect , I rather avoid. If I run into case where it seem the only option, well I'd install. But today all parts should be available to keep system intact as factory intended.

Hey I'm learning every day, so please anyone show why (other than cost) why this bypass mod is a good idea?

 

[REZARF]

If it were me and I was in there I would replace the starter contacts and plunger with OEM, beef up the wiring with a "BIG 3" upgrade and call it done.

 

[jerryb]

You said: "The # 2 switching valves I would replace either unless they were bad." I assume you meant wouldn't!

yup, now we both type to fast.

The exception would be from fuel pump

that's what I believe, older, hotter stock pump, produces bubbles, pushes fuel and air the complete circuit, at any time a slug of air could be anywhere. A slug of air could always be in the crossover from rail to rail. (highest point in the system)

 

[2001LC]

@jerryb To get starter out, I understand it's necessary to pull all the AI stuff from valley, did you also need to pull out the water bypass pipe?
I'm ordering OEM starter, AI pump and hoses now, not sure if I'll need another O-ring for water bypass pipe. I did just replace O-ring with water pump, hate to toss new, but a leak would be a royal PITA.

My parts guy's is have trouble finding the small vacuum tubes coming off intake manifold. Any chance you have the PN?
They are in good shape, but should be no need to pull intake again for next 200K with a bit of luck. Only the one switch will be factory.

 

[2001LC]

If it were me and I was in there I would replace the starter contacts and plunger with OEM, beef up the wiring with a "BIG 3" upgrade and call it done.

Contacts & plunger not sold separately.
Which wiring and whats a BIG 3?

 

[jerryb]

it's 3.5 mm hose, toyota dealer parts should have a big roll of it. There's space on it to mark your own part number.

https://parts.toyota.com/images/parts/toyotaOEM/fullsize/a1_170021.jpg


@jerryb To get starter out, I understand it's necessary to pull all the AI stuff from valley, did you also need to pull out the water bypass pipe?

if you did it would be easier, wouldn't it?
I didn't but probably would if I did it again. That was the most difficult job by far of anything I've ever done. Probably spent 4 hours alone just mounting and tightening it up. I hate thinking about it.

 

[jerryb]

drew didn't answer you, but in short, the big three is the wiring, - + and alt lines. You know where the battery terminates under there. As seen here. The Big 3 Wiring Upgrade
LC main ground is slightly bigger than 4 gauge, a 4 gauge copper lug fits very well on it, but it is in fact bigger than true 4 gauge stinger wire. My 10 year old wire looked pristine, even the bitter open crimped ends.

 

[2001LC]

I did notice your ground wire was larger in above picture. You seeing concrete results?

Do you have big amp draw(s) mods this was needed for?

 

[jerryb]

The one to the right that goes to the fender liner is 4 gauge, that one and the one on the wheel well to the engine pick up is 4 gauge. See side by side in pic. You can see the other ground to the lifting hook on the wheel well.
Right side to fender, left is the stock toyota wire. The toyota wire has a lot less insulation than welding supply wire. But outter diameter is about the same. At least I got lucky on the 4 gauge lugs.
The one that I saw results was the short fender wire. .1 or .2 increase same day. That was awhile ago, I can't remember.
No I don't have anything major. One stereo amp under the seat rated 900 watts peak. Probably <500 normal operating.

 

[abuck99]

JerryB- that is one nice & clean engine bay.

 

[REZARF]

Contacts & plunger not sold separately.
Which wiring and whats a BIG 3?

My toyota guy got me the contacts and plunger separately. There's even a rebuild kit iirc.

 

[2001LC]

My toyota guy got me the contacts and plunger separately. There's even a rebuild kit iirc.

I've also gotten rebuild kits (contacts and plunger) for 98-02 (not tried on 03-05) but not the 06-07. What year was your starter kit for?

It may be possible to retrofit the older kits in new solenoids, but I've not tired nor heard of it being done.