I have a 2010 GX460 with the power third row and will be removing those soon to build a sleeping platform on top of the Dometic CD30 Fridge. I am also planning on getting Dometic PLB40 to power everything and act as a dual battery. Since Lexus did not bless us with a 12v in the back, I wanted to see what was the best way to get power back there. I was originally looking at the Dometic Hard Wire Kit but don't really want to run new wires back there unless I need to. Also came across a recent thing in this thread to tap into the existing third row harness. The plan is to have the PLB40 plugged into the 12v and the CD30 plugged into the PLB40. The CD30 draws 3A at 12V and the PLB40 max about 8A at 12V. Ideally, I can have 2 12v plugs in the back, one which is on only when the ignition is and the other one on all the time. Not sure if adding a SwitchPro to this would make things better or more complex. Your thoughts and experience are appreciated! GO!
Opinion wanted on powering accessories (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ramzizaz
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r2m
Richard
Just to keep in mind, your power consumption is only when your fridge is on. Your fridge will only come on when the temperature get below a certain temp that you set. So if you're in a cold climate, it won't come on as often, e.g. use as much juice as if you were in a hot zone, like a desert. And from your zip code, I'm guessing you'll more than likely be in cooler zones. 
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With the 3rd row power tap you would have 20A at your disposal with one of the seats circuits tapped, and 40A if you tap into both circuits.
Electrical work is rarely a simplistic answer, depends on too many factors.
That said, start with @THEOZMAN connectors and see if that’ll work for your fridge and other needs. If so, it’s a kick off point to build from. If not, why? Spec up from there if needed. Check fridge requirements for power (12V usually, but how many constant or peak amps?) see what’s needed, go from there. Constant power needs, battery specs, specific use scenarios, etc can easily change any factor in a generic answer.
Not sure how switch pro setup would be used for a rear fridge mount setup. It’s effectively a streamlined fancy on/off switch, what are you switching on/off? Leaving the fridge in permanently but only wanna use it occasionally? $600+ is a expensive way to unplug it. If you’re already needing the setup to handle other mutiple systems then it’s potentially a nice extra circuit to add to it, but hardly justifies it alone.
That said, start with @THEOZMAN connectors and see if that’ll work for your fridge and other needs. If so, it’s a kick off point to build from. If not, why? Spec up from there if needed. Check fridge requirements for power (12V usually, but how many constant or peak amps?) see what’s needed, go from there. Constant power needs, battery specs, specific use scenarios, etc can easily change any factor in a generic answer.
Not sure how switch pro setup would be used for a rear fridge mount setup. It’s effectively a streamlined fancy on/off switch, what are you switching on/off? Leaving the fridge in permanently but only wanna use it occasionally? $600+ is a expensive way to unplug it. If you’re already needing the setup to handle other mutiple systems then it’s potentially a nice extra circuit to add to it, but hardly justifies it alone.
- Thread starter
- #5
The switch pro would be used in the future for other accessories but was trying to figure out how to deal with an ignition sensitive 12v plug. Would be nice not to have to spend more money now, just scared I might forget to unplug the plb40 one night and wake up to a dead battery. The other thing I was trying to find was a threaded 2pin dc plate other than the arb and domestic hard wire kits to use with the 3rd row tap.
I believe most of the fridges have a voltage detection system that’ll shut it down at a predetermined minimum battery voltage to prevent just that.
On previous rigs I have run my Engel fridge and CPAP overnight many times without even slowing the battery down.
If you have 20 amps to the back already I would think that would be fine to tap. I ran 12 gauge wire to the back for my other rig power on recommendation of Engel. I noticed my Premium has a small 100W inverter in back, probably could tap the supply for that if you have it.
If you have 20 amps to the back already I would think that would be fine to tap. I ran 12 gauge wire to the back for my other rig power on recommendation of Engel. I noticed my Premium has a small 100W inverter in back, probably could tap the supply for that if you have it.
- Thread starter
- #8
The PLB40 which is the power unit does not however. I have an AGM up front but still don't want the battery voltage to drop off too much if I forget to unplug.
The PLB40 will go into trickle charge (max 250-500 mA) after its internal battery is full. So even if it's connected directly to the battery, it won't keep pulling 8A all the time. Thats the max current it can charge it self with.
- Thread starter
- #10
The scenario I am talking about is : get to camp, plb40 is fully charged but as the fridge draws power from the plb40, the plb40 still continues to draw from the car 12v even though the car is off. I can always remember to unplug but having an ignition sensitive 12v in the back would be ideal.
I decided to not go the re-wire route for the time being and instead bought a Bluetti AC50s 500w power station as my 'second battery'. My fridge and any other accessories are powered from the Bluetti and it gets charged any time the ignition is on (i.e. while driving) from the dinky ac power outlet we have in the back (the Bluetti doesn't draw more than ~80W). I've been testing the Bluetti since I got it last week and it can run my 53qt fridge for over 48hrs, even at freezing temps. Since I don't intend to be away from an AC power source or not driving for greater than a 2 day stretch, I think this should fit my needs for now. There is no car battery draining concerns since the power station isn't drawing a charge when ignition is turned off.
I suggest you think of how long you plan to rely on the second battery with your current set up and decide which way you want to go. The Bluetti also provides the option of adding solar panel charging, which may be a future add on for my setup.
Oh, and the Bluetti is half the price of the Dometic power option you mentioned
I suggest you think of how long you plan to rely on the second battery with your current set up and decide which way you want to go. The Bluetti also provides the option of adding solar panel charging, which may be a future add on for my setup.
Oh, and the Bluetti is half the price of the Dometic power option you mentioned
- Thread starter
- #12
Thank you for the great suggestion, I will take a look. I wanted a very small footprint as I am trying to build a sleeping platform on top of the fridge and power station. The reason I wanted to go with the PLB40 was because it has a different chemistry and can cycle over 2000 times compared to the other Goal Zero option for example that I was looking at which only had 500 cycles.I decided to not go the re-wire route for the time being and instead bought a Bluetti AC50s 500w power station as my 'second battery'. My fridge and any other accessories are powered from the Bluetti and it gets charged any time the ignition is on (i.e. while driving) from the dinky ac power outlet we have in the back (the Bluetti doesn't draw more than ~80W). I've been testing the Bluetti since I got it last week and it can run my 53qt fridge for over 48hrs, even at freezing temps. Since I don't intend to be away from an AC power source or not driving for greater than a 2 day stretch, I think this should fit my needs for now. There is no car battery draining concerns since the power station isn't drawing a charge when ignition is turned off.
I suggest you think of how long you plan to rely on the second battery with your current set up and decide which way you want to go. The Bluetti also provides the option of adding solar panel charging, which may be a future add on for my setup.
Oh, and the Bluetti is half the price of the Dometic power option you mentioned
The Bluetti supposedly has 1000+ cycle charge capacity, according to manufacture and reported spec. After 1000 cycles, charge may not be 100%, but reduced, so still functional at that point, i.e. may be at 80% capacity. It runs on a Li ion battery. I haven't tested mine 'in the field' since I only got it last week, but I have some trips planned in the coming months so will reserve my opinion on performance until then. Right now, all the specs fit my current needs though. It isn't that big in footprint, but not that small either, 11.6*7.5*7.7inch,13.6lbs. The only thing I don't like about it is that the fan runs continuously when charging the unit on AC (not on DC). Whether that will be annoying, I can't say for now.
If it were me, I would put the largest AGM battery in the oem location, tap off the constant 12v for the rear power seats, and power the fridge directly off that. Rely on the fridge's low voltage cutoff and carry a battery jumper for assurance. Basically, skip the plb40 until you can get a real dual battery setup
Me too. Pretty much what I have done for years on previous rigs. But I will add that I looked into dual battery setups extensively, but in the end the single battery with backup was so much simpler (aka more reliable), not to mention a lot cheaper.
- Thread starter
- #16
I personally don't see the value in a dual battery setup that is 2 agms with all the extra hardware to setup. A portable unit like a Lithium Dometic PLB40 / Goal Zero etc...has a lot more uses and is easier to setup. The only thing being powered on when the engine is off is a fridge. Camp lights can use the main battery as the draw is fairly small and phones / accessories can use something even smaller than the PLB40. I like the ability to move the PLB40 to a tent or back to my home in case of emergency and when you consider the AGM battery I bought on it's own was around $400, I don't think it's really more economical after adding the DC-DC charger, wiring, fuses, etc. I think I will probably go with the GX460 AC route to charge a PLB40 as well as having a NOCO G70 or something similar as backup.
I went the portable route too instead of dual battery. My use case is similar - I wanted something that would charge while I'm driving, but could be taken out for use when required.
I build a Pelican case with 2 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries and an DC DC charger in it. It charges from the car, and then I use it to add to the battery capacity of our camp trailer.
I build a Pelican case with 2 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries and an DC DC charger in it. It charges from the car, and then I use it to add to the battery capacity of our camp trailer.
My final setup would consist of a Large X2Power battery which is 2 batteries in one. Starter and a deep cycle with up to 100 Ah reserve. its pretty awesome and it replaces all the dual battery setup and its only like $300.
with this, you can potentially run your fridge for like 3 days without the voltage dropping below starting level.
with this, you can potentially run your fridge for like 3 days without the voltage dropping below starting level.
- Thread starter
- #19
This is the one I got "SLI27FAGMDP X2Power Premium AGM BCI Group 27F Car and Truck Battery"
oh man, you are golden! those are the best batteries for overlanding/ camping
