- Thread starter
- #41
It's just above rear passenger heater (please excuse the mess) - this is center console area:
it should fit like this (u will need to bend metal plate to accommodate the new amp - hammer + anvil):
One more speaker / amp thread [2024] (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wisemonkey
- Start date
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it should fit like this (u will need to bend metal plate to accommodate the new amp - hammer + anvil):
Thanks, mate. Super helpful. Have a merry Christmas.
I appreciate the contributions to this thread. I've been eyeing a sound system upgrade to my 97, but just not sure how "elabrate" I want to go, as with several others my days of "big" systems are gone, but my brother threw in a BOSS headunit and I'm fairly certain the cheapest pioneer speakers he could find.
I will be tearing the entire interior out anyways to baseline (had some sunroof leaking so need to make sure I have no fungi growing under the carpet lol) and clean, so figure I'll throw a little sound deadening mat down to help... I have been spoiled with how quiet my GX470 is
I think I've resolved myself to cut holes and use the new speaker grills vs trying to keep it looking OEM. it was never going to be a OEM restoration so honestly not sure why I took so long to make that decision lol.
I will be tearing the entire interior out anyways to baseline (had some sunroof leaking so need to make sure I have no fungi growing under the carpet lol) and clean, so figure I'll throw a little sound deadening mat down to help... I have been spoiled with how quiet my GX470 is
I think I've resolved myself to cut holes and use the new speaker grills vs trying to keep it looking OEM. it was never going to be a OEM restoration so honestly not sure why I took so long to make that decision lol.
Why do you think it MUST be non-OEM? Are you having a hard time finding speakers that fit retro? Because they don't make them or because those out there don't sound good enough?
- Thread starter
- #45
yes I started thinking I'll ONLY change headunit, that went south when I still have constant whistle.
Then went looking for in-place replacement, still nothing came out of it. So finally bit the bullet and went all in.
- Thread starter
- #46
Following is my experience (learning), if you can come up with better approach please update thread (or DM me)
Few things come in way if you want to use OEM speakers (if you can find them and if they are relatively priced) - I couldn't source them at all.
1. There are no amps driving at those levels (around 25 watt)
2. Front speaker + dash speakers are in parallel so effectively you have 2 ohm speakers in front and 4 ohm speakers in back.
a. AMPs are expensive for something like that
b. AMPs have way more wattage than 25watt - you will blow speakers (if end up increasing volume)
c. AMPs are physically big, you will be hard pressed to find place to put them and if you are relocating AMP then might as well do speakers.
3. Better approach is find speakers which fit in place (but have bigger watt), there are options for front (still need to drill screw holes), but I couldn't find rear.
OR
Get headunit that can drive around 25/30 watt each and bypass OEM amp, keep using existing cables and speakers (speakers may still be bad from all the years though)
Because of mounting depth mainly, and because if I'm going to have different grills, I might as well cut a little bit and get a bit bigger driver. I think it'd look a little cleaner as well, just in case the aftermarket grill doesn't quite cover the area... I should clarify that I'm taking about the rears. The front ill stick with 6.5s and hertz makes shallow low mount 6.5 component set.
I was in the car audio industry in the early 2000's before going in the military and though I'm not the "audiophile" I was, I still don't really like mixing brands for speakers (subs obviously exception) I just never heard a mix I liked. So that limited options as well
- Thread starter
- #49
Don't try to use nutserts on doors, just use self tapping screws.
This would avoid cutting into trim over door metal as well.
Door metal is too thin and not uniform to use nutserts.
With nutserts:
Using self tapping screws:
This would avoid cutting into trim over door metal as well.
Door metal is too thin and not uniform to use nutserts.
With nutserts:
Using self tapping screws:
