One more speaker / amp thread [2024] (1 Viewer)

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Pascoscout said:
Yes, the woofer goes in the front door and acts as the normal speaker for mid/low range. In the systems with 2 woofers they can go anywhere you can fit them. I've seen set ups with both in the door, just have to be willing to cut the holes.
Click to expand...
trying not to cut. I've problem keeping brittle plastic together already lol
 
UPDATE: (keeping everything around 75 W)
Finalizing on: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301K170/Hertz-K-170.html
it has depth of 1-13/16" (for door mount)
Tweeter has following description:
1727634709991.png



How do I judge what size do I order from SolveFunction?
Now figuring out rear speakers, I'm thinking: Polk Audio MM 522 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM522/Polk-Audio-MM-522.html if anyone have experience with them please let me know

@Outsane
 
Last edited:
Pascoscout said:
Just go 4ohm all the way around. 2ohm is fine for a sub but you sacrifice too much sound quality to use them in a coaxial setup. The only reason to go 2ohm is if you are going to wire two 2ohm speakers in series to get 4 ohms. And if you need that many speakers you're going to get better sound quality and adjustability by going to a 6 channel amp.

Skip the 4" in dash speakers in the front. The size of them limits them to high frequencies and those are directional. You get very little benefit from them for the cost cause they basically point right at the floor, so all the sound goes there. If you want more highs up front you're far better getting a component system and getting a tweeter mount from Solvefunction. If you insist on keeping the in dash, and don't want a 6 channel amp, then rewire everything to have them be in series vs parallel.

If you're going through all this work run new, larger, high quality speaker wires from your amp to your speakers. The factory wiring in undersized for the kind of power you'll be running and it will reduce sound quality. It's also unshielded so you get more interference.

For speaker brands consider Hertz. Their shallow mount 6.5inch Hertz DCX 170.3 Dieci series car audio coaxial - https://hertz-audio.com/product/car-audio-coaxials-dieci-dcx170_3-2/ worked great in the front door of my LC. No spacer needed, just installed it on top of the door card. They sound really good too. I went 6.5 Hertz DCX 160.3 Dieci series car audio coaxial speaker - https://hertz-audio.com/product/dcx-160-3/ in the rear but had to run a spacer and cut some sheet metal. I did not care about keeping the factory look so I used the old school mesh grills. I may paint them to match someday but the black looks fine.

I used a similar 4 channel Fosgate amp for mine. It was designed for UTV use so its small and it fit in the space where the factory amp used to be.

Can't go wrong with Fosgate for a sub amp either. I've since moved away from building big systems, but I had a punch gold series amp that lasted over 20 years (may still work for all I know it went with my last truck when I sold it).

I believe the factory sub location is 6". Honestly its not worth the time and money to put that size in there so if you're going to do it go to at least 8" or even 10". There are a number of write ups on how to build a box for the factory location. This has been on my to-do list for a while but still haven't gotten around to it.
Click to expand...

Is there a pictorial representation of how original wires are run (from amp to speakers).
I want to figure out the pathing and what panels to run etc.
 
Pascoscout said:
Is this what you're after? It's for a 1997.
Click to expand...
oh no I was looking for pics showing how to get wires from central location to speaker.
Figured it though. Basically going under rug at center console and then making hole in same place where original wires go in door
1860.jpg
 
wisemonkey said:
oh no I was looking for pics showing how to get wires from central location to speaker.
Figured it though. Basically going under rug at center console and then making hole in same place where original wires go in door
View attachment 3750141
Click to expand...
Thats what I did. I tried to get the wires in the factory loom but there wasn't enough room.
 
There is a factory amp behind the original stereo. I think the original stereo plugged in to this amp, and then the 5 factory speakers were wired to the amp. Why not install your amp where this factory one was installed? Or maybe even use the factory amp -- do you know if it's a good one?
 
fatrap said:
There is a factory amp behind the original stereo. I think the original stereo plugged in to this amp, and then the 5 factory speakers were wired to the amp. Why not install your amp where this factory one was installed? Or maybe even use the factory amp -- do you know if it's a good one?
Click to expand...
amp still works but few things:
  • OEM speakers were 25W, and amp is similarly powered (speakers were definitely dead and if I pair amp with new head unit, speakers whistle)
  • finding new speakers and amp with that wattage and given physical size is almost impossible
  • also u get better performance with same / less price
  • I could have reused wiring but then again need to run them from new amp location, also these are old might as well upgrade.
 
wisemonkey said:
amp still works but few things:
  • OEM speakers were 25W, and amp is similarly powered (speakers were definitely dead and if I pair amp with new head unit, speakers whistle)
  • finding new speakers and amp with that wattage and given physical size is almost impossible
  • also u get better performance with same / less price
  • I could have reused wiring but then again need to run them from new amp location, also these are old might as well upgrade.
Click to expand...
Can you use the same location for the new amp (instead of behind the glove box)? Was it hard to run new speaker wires?
 
fatrap said:
Can you use the same location for the new amp (instead of behind the glove box)? Was it hard to run new speaker wires?
Click to expand...
OEM amp sits behind the glove box, new amp sits where 6 CD changer used to be (under center console).
Running speaker wires from center console is relatively easy. Getting wires through door / body gromet is hardest part (especially front doors)
Remove center console and remove passenger seat (you can still use car) to make it easy. I've kept driver seat since I'm doing all this very slow and this is my only car.
You can use fish tape to pull wires under the carpet (I used piece of wire from old laundry basket), I'll put them in better place if/when in future I redo carpet.

After running wires you will need to think of door hole size (Dremel cut and fine works + anti rust spray)
Yet to make new screw holes etc.

1959.jpg
1960.jpg
1962.jpg
 
It's been done.
System sounds very good, no more whistling from speakers :D
Here are final products used and few things to keep in mind.

Things to avoid / remember / do differently:
1. Plan was to use
Rockford Fosgate PM100X1 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PM100X1/Rockford-Fosgate-PM100X1.html?tp=35834 and Tang Band W4-1720 4" Underhung Midbass Driver - https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W4-1720-4-Underhung-Midbass-Driver-264-872?quantity=1 in center console area, since that speaker can fit perfectly.
However PM100X1 can't amplify RCA output, it must have wired signal as input. Sony XAV-9500ES - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV9500/Sony-XAV-9500ES.html only has RCA output for subwoofer. subwoofer is quite redundant with component speakers but I was going with this just for completion so it's not big deal. However better approach is probably just let go of OEM subwoofer box+amp and think of woofer in back (3rd row)

Everything else:
1. Rewiring all speakers. (from 6CD changer to doors)
It's easy to get wires from center console to edge of car without lifting carpet. Use fish hook wire (in my case, I used old laundry basket wire) to get under carpet and pull speaker wires from center to rear door frame and then from there to each door.
Getting wire through door frame in to the door was hardest part of whole process, if there is suggestion to get this done easily please reply (for now I'm done)

2. Main amp used Rockford Fosgate R2-500X4 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2500X4/Rockford-Fosgate-R2-500X4.html?tp=35782, this is perfect fit in place of CD changer. Best way to mount this : use nutserts (rivet nuts). plan was to use new fuse box, but amp needs 100amp circuit and fuse box is limited to 30amp each. Instead get this: Crutchfield CK4 Amp Wiring Kit - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK4/Crutchfield-CK4-Amp-Wiring-Kit.html (cable can run through firewall near driver knee)

3. Speakers used:
Rear: Polk Audio MM 522 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM522/Polk-Audio-MM-522.html , requires making holes bigger - dremel can be used for this, i didn't find drop in replacement. nuserts can be used for new holes for speakers to be mount.
Front: Hertz K 170 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301K170/Hertz-K-170.html with FJ80 Tweeter mount Landcruiser (Tweeter Mount: Focal TKMX) - https://solvefunction.com/shop/ols/products/tweeter-mount/v/TWT-MNT-FCL-TKM Speakers are mount just with self driving screws. Tweeters cables needed to be cut and re-soldered.

Things to consider further:
1. Cover hole left by removing 6 CD changer.
2. Get Quarter panel: Delta Vehicle Systems - 80 Series QPM - https://www.deltavs.com/all-products/80-series-qpm and put amp + woofer there (feels unnecessary)
 
Last edited:
wisemonkey said:
It's been done.
System sounds very good, no more whistling from speakers :D
Here are final products used and few things to keep in mind.

Things to avoid / remember / do differently:
1. Plan was to use
Rockford Fosgate PM100X1 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PM100X1/Rockford-Fosgate-PM100X1.html?tp=35834 and Tang Band W4-1720 4" Underhung Midbass Driver - https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W4-1720-4-Underhung-Midbass-Driver-264-872?quantity=1 in center console area, since that speaker can fit perfectly.
However PM100X1 can't amplify RCA output, it must have wired signal as input. Sony XAV-9500ES - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV9500/Sony-XAV-9500ES.html only has RCA output for subwoofer. subwoofer is quite redundant with component speakers but I was going with this just for completion so it's not big deal. However better approach is probably just let go of OEM subwoofer box+amp and think of woofer in back (3rd row)

Everything else:
1. Rewiring all speakers. (from 6CD changer to doors)
It's easy to get wires from center console to edge of car without lifting carpet. Use fish hook wire (in my case, I used old laundry basket wire) to get under carpet and pull speaker wires from center to rear door frame and then from there to each door.
Getting wire through door frame in to the door was hardest part of whole process, if there is suggestion to get this done easily please reply (for now I'm done)

2. Main amp used Rockford Fosgate R2-500X4 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R2500X4/Rockford-Fosgate-R2-500X4.html?tp=35782, this is perfect fit in place of CD changer. Best way to mount this : use nutserts (rivet nuts). plan was to use new fuse box, but amp needs 100amp circuit and fuse box is limited to 30amp each. Instead get this: Crutchfield CK4 Amp Wiring Kit - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK4/Crutchfield-CK4-Amp-Wiring-Kit.html (cable can run through firewall near driver knee)

3. Speakers used:
Rear: Polk Audio MM 522 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107MM522/Polk-Audio-MM-522.html , requires making holes bigger - dremel can be used for this, i didn't find drop in replacement. nuserts can be used for new holes for speakers to be mount.
Front: Hertz K 170 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301K170/Hertz-K-170.html with FJ80 Tweeter mount Landcruiser (Tweeter Mount: Focal TKMX) - https://solvefunction.com/shop/ols/products/tweeter-mount/v/TWT-MNT-FCL-TKM Speakers are mount just with self driving screws. Tweeters cables needed to be cut and re-soldered.
Click to expand...
Where exactly did you put the R2 500 X4 ??
 
I'm sorry, I read that you replaced the changer. But where is the changer located?
 
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