Onboard shower install questions...

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CaliCruiser

CaliCruiser

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This weekend I am going to install a heat exchanger and pump for an onboard shower, and I am looking for opinions on a few thing. First of all, here is a shot of the materials I have right now, I figure I will make about ten trips to store tomorrow for supplys. . . This is going on my fj60, so if anyone has pics of their own install that would be cool to.


IMG_3517.jpg





(1) What kind of hose should I use for the the hot water side of the heat exchanger that will go to the shower head?
What is a good length for the pickup side of the pump?

(2) Should I just put a switch in the engine compartment to activate the pump?

(3) Is it best to interupt a hose after the heater core to be able to somewhat control the temp or is it going to limit my flow?

Here is a shot of the pump

IMG_3518.jpg


Here is a shot of the heat exchanger

IMG_3521.jpg
 
CaliCruiser said:
(1) What kind of hose should I use for the the hot water side of the heat exchanger that will go to the shower head?
What is a good length for the pickup side of the pump?

(2) Should I just put a switch in the engine compartment to activate the pump?

(3) Is it best to interupt a hose after the heater core to be able to somewhat control the temp or is it going to limit my flow?
Click to expand...


1) I don't think it a=matters that much. i would be comfortable using something robust like Green Stripe hose, but the nylon reinforced stuff should be fine with temps below 220F.

2) That would be easy. Fuse the wire to the battery, switch prior to the pump, good to go.

3)I would not interrupt the output, since by definition it limits the flow. I would run the input through the rear heater, and let the rear heater control control the temp. That way the pumps only job is to pump water through the heat exchanger.

Jim Brantley has the slickest set up for this-send him a PM. The "hot" input comes from the rear heater. That way flow through the rear heater controls the temp. The pump just pumps. He even has quick connects for the hoses right at the grill. Very slick set up, you should just copy it.

Nice mod.
 
CaliCruiser said:
Cool Andy, that is the type of stuff I'm looking for. I should have checked out Jims rig more down at SNT.

So you are saying run ---> inlet hose--->pump--->exchanger into a rear heater line---> to a shower head?
Click to expand...

You're up early!

On Jim's (and you should PM him for the real scoop), The rear heater is the hot coolant supply for the heat exchanger. The running motor is what circulates the coolant. So the electric pump only pumps through the exchanger, and the heat is supplied by the coolant coming out of the rear heater. If you turn the rear heat temp control down, then less coolant flows into the exchanger and the fresh water temp drops. It's very slick.

It went like this: Ouch, ouch ouch, turn the MF down....Aieeeeeee way tooo cold, Ahhhh just right. It's a two person operation.

Just to be clear, the fresh water only flows through the exchanger, and the coolant from the rear heater brings the heat.

edit:http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324151&page=2&pp=25 scroll down
 
Dylan, it looks like you're well on your way!

Be sure to "crossflow" the hot coolant and the fresh water. That is the Hot Coolant IN on the same end as the fresh water OUT. (Maximizes the "delta" temps for maximum efficiency)

The white hose in your pic works OK and is easiest to carry because it's soft. It works OK for the outlet to the shower but you'll want "stiffer" garden hose for the suction side or it will collapse.

Instead of the sprinkler head I used one of those slow flow watering thingy that looks like a hand grenade. I think it might be less restrictive and less prone to clogging.

You may need to change shower heads too. Look for a smaller "low flow" head so you'll have a good spray with less flow rate. You'll also want some sort of valve to regulate flow. I use one of those cheap simple plastic hose valves. You can adjust the shower temp by regulating the flow rate. Less flow > hotter water, more flow > cooler water.

You'll have to remind people to always leave the water running, even after they are finished. Otherwise, when you open the valve back up you'll have 200 degeee water (ie; steam) Ouch!!

It's a great project, good luck!

P.S. expect to be invited on more wheeling trips when you have the shower! Get a chain saw too and you'll be very popular!
 
Dude I did not know you showered. :rolleyes:



Looking good , The only thing I have to add I would ditch the garden hose and fittings. maybe go with some barb fittings and better tubing @ the exchanger and some QD's mounted out side.
Some of those shower heads have a restrictor plate, you might want to drill it or toss it . The nice thing about the plate is you can drill larger holes until you get the flow you like.


ken
 
I might take it off your hands.



Thanks for the tips guys, one last question. . .

On the rear heater lines I plan on tapping into the lines where they enter the engine compartment. Which one do I want to tap into, I can't figure which line goes into the rear heater and which one comes out of the rear heater.

Dylan
 
The clear tubing that came with the HH went soft when the hot water was flowing...and then water line would get kinked cutting off flow right where the hose entered the shower enclosure window. So I ended up with a temp resistant hose that works much better but isn't as pliable. Try what you already have first...

My shower head (again from the HH kit) has an in-line on/off switch that ends up inside the shower enclosure so that I can turn it on & off to conserve water. Ditto on the shower head.

I also use my manual throttle control to dial in the temp...seems to work just fine at 1400 rpm ;). It'd be nice to have a remote ignition switch to shut the engine down when the shower is over when no one's around ;)...

I just installed a standard 12V cig style plug on the end of the pump and then wired in a 12v fused receptacle which I anchored with a custom little bracket...
 
CaliCruiser said:
I might take it off your hands.



Thanks for the tips guys, one last question. . .

On the rear heater lines I plan on tapping into the lines where they enter the engine compartment. Which one do I want to tap into, I can't figure which line goes into the rear heater and which one comes out of the rear heater.

Dylan
Click to expand...


Dylan...when the motor is hot just touch each outlet hose...the hotter one will be your 'enter' side and the slightly cooler will be your 'exit' side from the heater core.
 
Soon I hope!

I have a question for you guys. . .

IMG_3519.jpg



Based on this picture of the xchanger, I want to run the cold water through the small tubes, and the hot coolant through the top ports to surround the small tubes correct? This would provide the best surface area contact to heat the water right? I started to plumb the system but a few buddies of mine and a few neighbors said it would never work. Let me know if I am crazy.
 
I dont know if this helps but the X changers I work with use warm medium on the out side and product to be warmed up in the tubing inside , Thats how I would smoke that thing.

ken
 
CaliCruiser said:
Soon I hope!

I have a question for you guys. . .

IMG_3519.jpg



Based on this picture of the xchanger, I want to run the cold water through the small tubes, and the hot coolant through the top ports to surround the small tubes correct? This would provide the best surface area contact to heat the water right? I started to plumb the system but a few buddies of mine and a few neighbors said it would never work. Let me know if I am crazy.
Click to expand...

Correct-remember the counter current thing Jim was talking about and just let her rip. You'll find showers are nice, and you'll have an easier time with the chicks.:D
 
If I can get the damn thing to work! I spent about four hours messing around with this thing and I couldn't get anything above warm at extremely low volume. I tried every combination of inlet and oulet and direction with poor results each time. I don't have the pump wired up yet so I just ran the hose to the garden hose and used that as my temporary 'pump'. It seems to me like I am not getting enough coolant flow throught the xchanger to transfer heat. Of all the testing I would say that flooding the coolant in the chamber with the water running through the small diameter tubes worked the best at very low volume. Did I go with a bad design. . . ?


Dylan
 
CaliCruiser said:
If I can get the damn thing to work! I spent about four hours messing around with this thing and I couldn't get anything above warm at extremely low volume. I tried every combination of inlet and oulet and direction with poor results each time. I don't have the pump wired up yet so I just ran the hose to the garden hose and used that as my temporary 'pump'. It seems to me like I am not getting enough coolant flow throught the xchanger to transfer heat. Of all the testing I would say that flooding the coolant in the chamber with the water running through the small diameter tubes worked the best at very low volume. Did I go with a bad design. . . ?


Dylan
Click to expand...

Your home brew looks great. Is your 60 fully hot when doing the test? With the low flow in the small pipes, it has the best chance to pick up the max heat, so keep the hot coolant around the pipes. You have to rev the 60 up to about 1800 rpm as well to increase the flow. You did remember to set the rear heat to full hot?

Remember too, the hose can supply way more GPM than your pump. It may simply be blasting cold water though the exchanger too fast. I think it's cool you made your own. If I were doing it, I'd get the same industrial exchanger that Jim had, but that's cheating. Keep going, you'll beat this one.
 
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