OME suspension - Ubolts and Rubber Isolators

[Cascade Cruiser]

I'm resurrecting a previously discussed topic regarding the stock rubber isolator pads that mount above and below the rear leaf springs (see threads below for pictures).

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=778797

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=95924

This weekend I was installing a 2.5" OME suspension kit on my 1987 FJ60 and decided to reinstall the rubber isolators to take advantage of the spring-centering features built into the isolators. However, I was only able to torque down my u-bolts to about 70 ft-lbs before the spring seats actually began to bend. I am almost certain that the spring centering features both above and below the spring pack were properly aligned. However, the lower rubber isolator is much thicker and stiffer around the spring centering hole and I believe this resulted in uneven load distribution between the spring seat and the spring pack and eventually resulted in a bent spring seat when enough torque was applied to the u-bolts. So I managed to bend everything back into shape (with a little help from the torch) but I need some advice on proper install. Has anyone used the OME spacers that provide spring centering w/o the rubber isolators (MAF part # OME-CBS01). Are these just cylindrical spacers that press fit into the spring seat, or do they have some sort of flange? Anyone experience this situation where you were actually bending your spring seat? Thanks for any advice on this, I'd especially like to hear from Kurt or Steve0 or anyone else well-versed in OME install.

CC

 

[NocalFJ60]

I would order up the spacer and take the pads out. They just slide right over the top of the centering pins. The picture shows the spacers in the second link. The spacers worked good for me. Also the u-bolt flip kit is a nice addition for added strength.

Did you slowly tightned the nuts on each u bolts evenly?

 

[High Desert]

I left the top rubber cushion in place. I dismanteled the bottom, cut the bushing out of the rubber and left it in the hole. As you said,The guys at MAF sell new bushings to use when you remove the rubber. I was planning on leaving the Rubber cushion on my OME install but could not thread up the U-bolt nuts with the extra thickness of the OME springs. Had a choice of buying local u-bolts that were longer or wait and order the Bushings, or punt and tear into the rubber on the bottom.. what I did worked fine. After I tore and cut the rubber apart the bushing had a flange on top and was just bent/chrimped on the bottom to hold it in the hole. Would think the ones MAF sells would have a flange on top too.
I did crank and crank until I got 80# on the torque, because the top rubber had to compress. MAF said to take that rubber out also, I elected to keep it in for noise/vibration insulation.

But all is well and I have re-torqued twice with little movment on a few nuts the first time, no movement before 80# at the 2nd re-torqueing.

 

[High Desert]

Gotta say if I had had the time I would have ordered the spacers, Had I wanted to spend even more $ I do think the flip kit is great. though in 22 years my rig never touched a rock to the ubolt end threads..I'll probably go out soon and find that rock with my new parts..hope not, but I had to stop spending somewhere..

just a note..couldn't wait on the spacers becuase I was tieing up a lift that I had to be off of the day I installed the rear packs. That's why I improvised..

 

[lovetoski]

I used the OEM rubber isolaters with my MAF Safari lift for two years - this was before they started the recommendation to remove the rubber and install their cylindrical spacer. I added a long OME add-a-leaf about a year ago and removed the rubber isolater and used the cyclindrical spacer. I'm not sure how one setup is better than the other. Both installed fine for me (once I leveraged the axle into place so the spring pin would line up!)

However, my spring seat is distorted. I was able to get 90#'s on the u-bolts, and it's stayed at 90 since then. But I don't like how they look. The corners are bent up by ~15 degrees. Prolly should pop for a u-bolt flip kit...they look bomber.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

OME does have a spacer available (part# CBS01), but as of last it wasn't 100% correct either (required some grinding to fit as it was a bit too tall). Some cut the rubber spacer (actually has metal in it) off of the old spring isolator. This is what we commonly do when we are installing them, or we use the spacers so we can use the spring isolators. I have some of the CBS01 spacers in my hand, they have an OD of 25mm, an 15mm ID, and a 15mm height... that should do the trick (with some grinding) to get rid of the isolators completely. I am going to start including these with all kits, though most get away without needing them, for the couple of dollars they are, it is worth it.

Will, I'll call you ASAP!

 

[lovetoski]

OME does have a spacer available (part# CBS01), but as of last it wasn't 100% correct either (required some grinding to fit as it was a bit too tall). /QUOTE]

That's right - I forgot - I did have to grind mine a bit. It was too tall.

 

[Cascade Cruiser]

Thanks for the tips. I have a few OME spacers on order so I'll probably plug those in this weekend. Plan B is to trim down the stock rubber isolators. I can't wait to get this thing back on the road! Thanks again, I'll post an update when I get it all put back together.