OME Installation: What is wrong?

[masscrusher]

Folks,

Recently I started the installation of an OME suspension on my FJ60. I have finished the rear end and these are some observations I have after everything was torqued down:

1. The u-bolts are long. Way long. Too much of them hangs from under the spring plate.

2. The "A" spring pack went on the driver side, the "B" on the passenger side, with the "+" sign forward, yet the Cruiser leans to the passenger side.

3. I had to drive it to feel the difference, the back sways a lot. I installed an Aussie Locker a few weeks before, but the swaying was not that severe.

Otherwise, shackle angles are good, and it is noticeable a better ride than before. Any clues as what could be happening here?

 

[cahilc]

Jose,

Re-sprung my 60 a week ago. I *feel* your pain. A picture is worth a thousand words ... howerver I got neither ... Had to guess where stuff went. I was mostly correct.

1. cut, probably to long on purpose

2. a-driver side b-passenger side. Military wrap (i.e. the big wrap, completely wrapped end) goes closest towards the middle of the truck. Or another way to say it, the military wrap is furthest from the bumper.

3. Call the tech support if possible and figure out if the sway is correct. The spring will settle a little but I'm not sure the sway will change.

Hope this helps,
Cahil

 

[accasbel]

Folks,
...2. The "A" spring pack went on the driver side, the "B" on the passenger side, with the "+" sign forward, yet the Cruiser leans to the passenger side.
...

Funny, mine does the same. Started off level, but after the inagural off-road trip, it was sagg'n. I was told to drive it for a 1,000 miles and flex the suspension a lot before worrying. Now the passengar side sag is an inch more in the rear, and about 3/4 in the front. A/B, +/- all in the right paces.

M-a-F asked me to start with reversine the leaft & right rear springs. Hadn't done that yet.

Oh yea, those pesky u-bolts had to be trimmed. Way long...

 

[dd113]

Drive it a while and see how it settles out. If still bad switch out L for R the rear springs. Drive it a while. If still bad switch out L for R the ft springs. Drive it a while. Final option switch out RR springs again L for R (back to the original position) and see what happens. If it is still bad after all this get them to switch out the DS A spring

 

[Waggoner5]

Remember, that drivers side here is different than the country of manufacture.

 

[KLF]

1. The U-bolts are always too long. You should have to cut off about 3". 4-1/2" hand grinder with a cut-off wheel works great.

2. Drive it for awhile. Put a heavy load in it, drive it some more. Mine sat all kinds of crooked, leaned one way or the other depending on the day. Sits perfectly level now, after 20,000 miles. Just keep the spring packs and all the pins greased.

3. See above. Or find a FJ62 in a junkyard and swipe the rear anti-sway-bar off it.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Call ARB in Seattle at 206-264-1669

Ask for Tim Lund.

Tim can answer any question.



TB

 

[esh]

or use a ubolt flip kit

remember to keep checking the ubolt nuts too- should need a couple retorques to get them set.

 

[masscrusher]

Or find a FJ62 in a junkyard and swipe the rear anti-sway-bar off it.

Ken,

I thought about that, but my impression is that the sway bar restricts articulation.

Anyway, I have been driving the cruiser and the sway is "calming" down. Or I am getting used to it.

All: thanks for the input.

 

[cahilc]

masscrusher,

I finally got my truck on a concrete pad to get some fairly accurate measurements. Basic OME "light" suspension with OME anti-inversion shackles.

From hub center to fender lip:

lf - 21"
rf - 21.5"
lr- 22"
rr- 22.5"

Bascailly I ended up with a 2" lift for the front and a 4" lift with a 0.5" rise to teh right side.

As I understand, hub center to fender lip for stock is 19" in front and 18" in rear.

I'm happy.

Cheers,
Cahil