OME Install

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sbelinge

sbelinge

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 20, 2014
Threads
8
Messages
219
Location
Camas, WA
Hey @lechnito I've got a couple questions regarding your OME installation. At our last meet up you mentioned that I should buy the "yellow" torch correct? Is there a particular reason? How long did it take you to do the install and would you suggest starting on one end of the rig before the other. I was thinking the rear might be a bit easier to start with.
Thanks.
 
Hey man.

If your bushings were like mine then you'll need to burn them off. The blue propane cylinder didn't get hot enough to burn the rubber so I ended up needing to upgrade to the yellow MAP gas canister with a Bernzomatic Premium Torch Head. MAP gas will make an enormous difference in terms of BTU output so absolutely make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy and maybe a fan to help with ventilation.

On my rig, all but one of the fixed spring pins needed the torch before the bushing would let go. I also used aluminum foil as a heat shield to protect the transmission plumbing and hard brake lines attached to the frame.

I don't think it makes a difference which end you start on. Either way it seems like most people do the shackle side first. The rear springs are heavier and you might need to navigate around your exhaust but the frontend will usually have more fire hazards as far as old power steering fluid, motor oil, etc. Take your pick!

My install took around 3 or 4 solo evenings, but my bushings were in rough shape and I had to reinstall the shackles once or twice because I oriented them wrong the first time around.

One other bit of advice: buy an 8oz container of Permatex Anti-Seize and use it to liberally coat the bushings, threads, shackles, pins, etc. Future you will be glad you took the time if you ever need to break into your suspension again.

Cheers,
Chris
 
@sbelinge did you get around to doing this yet? Do you have stock springs on it? When I put HFS springs on mine I had to burn out some of the bushings too. Still took some giant crow bars to get the bolts out. If you need a hand let me know. I'm not too happy with the HFS springs, getting saggy in the rear, particularly the drivers side after only 7 years 30k miles :mad:

I picked up some OME springs too and probably just going to swap the rear for now. Not looking forward to the U bolts.

Good luck and let me know if you need another pair of hands and a crowbar haha.
 
Hey guys, sorry to say I haven't started the OME install yet. Unfortunately I'm continually pushing it further out on my calendar. Right now I'm working on my drip rails. Well I'm supposed to be working on them but as you all can attest the weather this past week has not been conducive to working outside.
@jmcclusk - Yes my springs are stock and I'll be upgrading to OME med./med. when I finally get to it. As for the offer to help, I live out in Camas, WA so that may be a bit of a haul for anyone interested in helping but, an extra set of hands is always welcome. I pay with beer.

And thanks for asking for an update. It's just the push I need to get moving.
 
I am also happy to lend a hand and my air tools/floor jacks/etc, but I'm only available for the next two weekends. After that I plan to spend all my free time hunting elk for the following month. Just LMK!
 
The OME install is finally scheduled for Dec. 16th!
I have two weeks of free time to get it done so I've got plenty of time ;). I started the PB Blaster treatment last week so I hope that helps some. We'll see.
 
I tried using ratchet straps when I did mine, but I found that it was little easier just strategically using floor jacks to lift the spring and/or axle as needed until everything aligned.
 
@Rustic76 Yep, that was me. That is a beautiful troopy! My daughter says it's "pretty cool," too. I live just down the street from where I turned off.
 
Hey @lechnito and @Rustic76 - I pulled this 'tool' list off another thread here on mud, do you think it's reasonable or is it missing something clutch?

1) 4 quality jackstands
2) Floor Jack
3) Heat source - cutting torch or propane torch
4) 5# and 12# sledge hammers
5) Air chisel (optional, but nice to have)
6) rubber mallet
7) 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21mm sockets, (deep)
8) 3' breaker bar
9) Impact wrench
10) Sawmill
 
That list looks pretty good. When I did mine I didn’t need to torch any bushings and just hammered them out with a large mallet and rod. I hosed everything down a few days prior with PB Blaster. I didn’t use an impact wrench either, but it would make life easier. I also used a 4” grinder to just chop off the old ubolts.

We are lucky here that we don’t have to deal with much corrosion. I bet you breeze right through it. Also add a torque wrench to the necessary tools.

Btw, a “sawmill” might be a little extreme.
 
@sbelinge, sorry I missed your post!

I used two floor jacks to help center the post and drive the springs up to the hanger -- one jack for the spring and the other for the axle. I bet you can get away with a single jack or ratchet straps though.

My propane torch wasn't strong enough to burn out my bushings and I needed the yellow MAP gas torch. A cutting torch could work well too, just be careful not to damage the spring hangers. Also, have a fire extinguisher ready if you need to go this route.

The only thing missing would be a big container of Permatex aluminum anti-seize to use liberally when you assemble the new parts. You'll thank yourself if you ever need to disassemble your suspension again.
 
It is done...
I have finally installed my OME kit and man, it is great! I'll post before and after pics after Christmas.

In summation I'm glad I did the install myself but I don't think I'd want to do another one any time soon. Coil springs are so much easier to install.
I didn't have any issues with any bushing or pin removals, they all came out rather easily. I was really expecting difficulty at this stage but thankfully it was breeze.

The problems arose when trying to align the rear leaf center pins to the spring perch. This step was a PITA! Thank you @lechinto and @Rustic76 for the suggestion of using ratchet straps (a Godsend indeed!). A lot of fine tuning with floor jack, bottle jack, ratchet straps, #4 mallet, and shear luck to get it all aligned properly. I had to remove my a section of my exhaust from the muffler to tail pipe in order to access the driver side rear shackle. This was not difficult but just another step in the process. I also removed the anti-roll bar so I could move the axel a bit more.
My set up it med/med and so far (after driving about 30 miles) I really like this set up. I originally ordered a light/med kit but after talking to @lechnito I decided to add a leaf to the fronts for a med/med set up. I'm surprised how well new suspension components can transform the driving characteristics of such an old truck. I dare say my rig feels rather modern now, almost.

I know I'm laving out some details so feel free to ask questions. Oh, I measured a 3"+/- increase in height at all four corners.
 
Just in time for Christmas! Can't wait to see photos of your rig with the upgraded stance.

Did you also upgrade the shocks and stabilizer while you were up there? Are you champing at the bit to upgrade to larger tires yet?
 
Nice! Your stock springs must have been pretty flat to get 3” out of the new ones. Now for a set of 33x10.50 KO2’s and you are set!

It’s definitely a rewarding feeling getting done with a project like that. Happy holidays

Also, make sure you don’t tighten your shackles too tight...lots of folks make that mistake and it really jacks up the ride quality.
 
Everything is new OME. However, my tie rod puller is too big to pull the steering stabilizer so I've got to wait to get a new one before installing it. I'm looking forward to getting 33"s but that will not be until summer. My 31s still have some miles left on them.
I torqued the shackles to OME specs and the u-bolts to the FSM specs. I was kind of surprised that OME only requires 30 and 60 foot pounds on the shackles but I'm not going to second guess the experts.
 
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