I had to buy a new tie rod puller to get my stabilizer off. Here's the kind that worked really well for me: OEM Tie rod end remover with 3 in. bolt 27276 - Read Reviews on OEM #27276
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I used a pickle fork and a rubber mallet to remove the steering stabilizer. You can borrow it if you need one.
Sending a PM your way
- Thread starter
- #25
Here is a before/after pic and some measurements. I've driven about 70+ miles on the new suspension and I really like how it feels. I was pretty cautious with going for MED/MED set up because I didn't want it to feel too bouncy or stiff. It is not either of these things. I don't think it looks bad but I'm really looking forward to getting some 33s to fill the space.
Before (all measured from ground to center of wheel arch)
LF: 33.5" RF: 33.75"
LR: 32.375 RR: 32.375"
After
LF: 35.625" RF: 36.625"
LR: 35" RR: 35.75'
Total Lift:
LF: +2.125" RF: +2.875"
LR: +2.625" RR: +3.375"
Before (all measured from ground to center of wheel arch)
LF: 33.5" RF: 33.75"
LR: 32.375 RR: 32.375"
After
LF: 35.625" RF: 36.625"
LR: 35" RR: 35.75'
Total Lift:
LF: +2.125" RF: +2.875"
LR: +2.625" RR: +3.375"
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Looks great dude!
My front springs (CS004F) didn't have the A / B designation, but both of my rears are "B" springs (CS005RB not CS005RA). I don't recall seeing this documented in the ARB instructions, but I have read about the distinction on older mud threads.
Similar to your results, my RF sits about 1/2" higher than the LF and my RR sits around 3/4" higher than the LR. I suspect these differences would begin to even out if you installed some heavy duty accessories like a winch and a swing out bumper. I'm planning to install the 4plus ubolt flip kit this spring along with some shims to bring my caster angles into a more optimum range; hypothetically, you could even out the vehicle by using differently sized shims.
Did you notice any change to your steering after the install?
My front springs (CS004F) didn't have the A / B designation, but both of my rears are "B" springs (CS005RB not CS005RA). I don't recall seeing this documented in the ARB instructions, but I have read about the distinction on older mud threads.
Similar to your results, my RF sits about 1/2" higher than the LF and my RR sits around 3/4" higher than the LR. I suspect these differences would begin to even out if you installed some heavy duty accessories like a winch and a swing out bumper. I'm planning to install the 4plus ubolt flip kit this spring along with some shims to bring my caster angles into a more optimum range; hypothetically, you could even out the vehicle by using differently sized shims.
Did you notice any change to your steering after the install?
- Thread starter
- #28
@Rustic76 and @lechnito Thanks for all your support along the way. On more than one occasion I found myself referencing your suggestions.
I've notice less vibrations in my steering and an overall more positive feel to it, not as much play. My steering wheel has always been off center (while steering straight the actual steering wheel centerline is at about one o'clock) and now it seems to be rotated a bit more like two o'clock. This is not the steering column but the steering wheel.
I've also noticed, and this may just be a coincidence, that my brakes seem to not be working as well. The peddle feel is a bit numb. A couple of times I thought they weren't going to stop me.
What did you notice about your steering?
I've notice less vibrations in my steering and an overall more positive feel to it, not as much play. My steering wheel has always been off center (while steering straight the actual steering wheel centerline is at about one o'clock) and now it seems to be rotated a bit more like two o'clock. This is not the steering column but the steering wheel.
I've also noticed, and this may just be a coincidence, that my brakes seem to not be working as well. The peddle feel is a bit numb. A couple of times I thought they weren't going to stop me.
What did you notice about your steering?
Couple different ways to deal w/ the steering wheel being off. Remove center portion to access the nut that hold steering wheel on. Remove the nut and re-clock the wheel straight again.
Other way is to loosen the collar and rotate tie rod that comes off your steering box until the wheel/tires are all lined up. Personally, I’d just pull steering wheel and move it over a few splines till straight.
As far as the brakes, that kind of weird. I’d start by checking none of the soft brake lines got over stretched and are bulging under pressure or are kinked up some how. If they are original and look a little taught with the new lift, consider replacing w/ extended lines. I have the braided ones from MAF on my 60.
It’s pretty common to have vague steering or feel like your truck doesn’t track well after a lift since it messes with the caster angles. It will improve as the springs settle, if it’s wandering a lot, but some steel caster shins and it will be back to normal.
Other way is to loosen the collar and rotate tie rod that comes off your steering box until the wheel/tires are all lined up. Personally, I’d just pull steering wheel and move it over a few splines till straight.
As far as the brakes, that kind of weird. I’d start by checking none of the soft brake lines got over stretched and are bulging under pressure or are kinked up some how. If they are original and look a little taught with the new lift, consider replacing w/ extended lines. I have the braided ones from MAF on my 60.
It’s pretty common to have vague steering or feel like your truck doesn’t track well after a lift since it messes with the caster angles. It will improve as the springs settle, if it’s wandering a lot, but some steel caster shins and it will be back to normal.
Also, if the steering wheel is being stubborn after removing the nut, use a rubber mallet and tap around it and it should come loose. Sometimes a puller is needed but usually you can get it without.
My steering got noticeably more sloppy after my OME install, but it sounds like you aren't seeing the same issue exactly.
I definitely faced similar poor braking performance though. You need to build a spacer to raise your LSPV to compensate for the higher drive angles. Check out my thread here for more details: What to do with my LSPV after OME lift installation?
A new 4" - 5" spacer in combination with a rear brake adjustment seemed to correct the problem.
I definitely faced similar poor braking performance though. You need to build a spacer to raise your LSPV to compensate for the higher drive angles. Check out my thread here for more details: What to do with my LSPV after OME lift installation?
A new 4" - 5" spacer in combination with a rear brake adjustment seemed to correct the problem.
@sbelinge - before you decide to build a bracket, you should disconnect the LSPV anchor from the rear axle housing and zip tie the long spring to the top of the body. If your braking is improved, then you'll know you need a bracket.
This bracket raises my LSPV anchor up by 3.5", which is around the total lift I got after installing the OME and larger tires:
Just go to Parkrose Hardware and have them cut a 6" long 3" wide 1/4" thick steel bar. Also, bring the original anchor bolts with you so you can buy a pair of duplicate metric bolts along with nuts and lock washers.
Next you'll need need to disconnect the anchor from the spring so you can measure the offset bolt holes. When I did this, I made a pattern from some old cardboard and an exacto knife/marker. Get the new holes lined up so they mirror each other, secure the steel bar to a 2x4, and drill out the new holes. My holes weren't perfect, but they didn't really need to be.
Last step before reassembly is to bend the ends of the bar into 1.25" flaps which is pretty easy to do with a bench vise and a 5# sledge. After you have two 90* bends and you've done a fitment test, it would a good idea to apply a coat of rustoleum to ward off corrosion (I wish I had done this btw).
EDIT: Consider buying some redundant 7" and 8" long pieces of steel bar from PH just in case you need more length or if you make a mistake along the way...
This bracket raises my LSPV anchor up by 3.5", which is around the total lift I got after installing the OME and larger tires:
Just go to Parkrose Hardware and have them cut a 6" long 3" wide 1/4" thick steel bar. Also, bring the original anchor bolts with you so you can buy a pair of duplicate metric bolts along with nuts and lock washers.
Next you'll need need to disconnect the anchor from the spring so you can measure the offset bolt holes. When I did this, I made a pattern from some old cardboard and an exacto knife/marker. Get the new holes lined up so they mirror each other, secure the steel bar to a 2x4, and drill out the new holes. My holes weren't perfect, but they didn't really need to be.
Last step before reassembly is to bend the ends of the bar into 1.25" flaps which is pretty easy to do with a bench vise and a 5# sledge. After you have two 90* bends and you've done a fitment test, it would a good idea to apply a coat of rustoleum to ward off corrosion (I wish I had done this btw).
EDIT: Consider buying some redundant 7" and 8" long pieces of steel bar from PH just in case you need more length or if you make a mistake along the way...
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