OME Dakar lift ordered for my 85
- Thread starter vegasfj40
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On the note of Trail Gear brake lines- I get why they are awesome for something like an ome lift- but if you use the full compliment of Trail Gear products, you'll loose the backing plate brake line mount.
Why hasn't anyone made a brake line that goes straight to the brake caliper with a banjo bolt?
When I made my own SS brake lines I went straight to the caliper. Used a metric inverted flare to -3AN adapter and 90° hose end at the caliper.
For the record I was not advocating using old brake hoses. Buy new.
Can't recall for sure if the thread size is correct or not, but it might be possible to screw a rear (new) hose directly into the front caliper. If this works then you could buy 4 new rear hoses to make longer front hoses if going braided isn't in the budget or skill-set.
Trail Gear is the very, very very last place I'll buy anything from, especially brake parts.
For the record I was not advocating using old brake hoses. Buy new.
Can't recall for sure if the thread size is correct or not, but it might be possible to screw a rear (new) hose directly into the front caliper. If this works then you could buy 4 new rear hoses to make longer front hoses if going braided isn't in the budget or skill-set.
Trail Gear is the very, very very last place I'll buy anything from, especially brake parts.
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What backing plate are you talking about @GRS? If youre talking about the little tab where the soft line comes through and you mount a c-clip on each side, I still used mine. FWIW, cut a 1/8" inch slit in the back of this tab when you remove your brakes. For future brake/hub/axle repairs, you can slide your hardline out through the slit and you wont have to bleed your brakes every time you need to pull parts off. The clips hold everything together when installed.
Whats the advantage to going straight to the caliper? Less points of failure? Dont the 6"ish hardlines position the soft lines out of the way of the wheel and suspension etc. Not to mention almost no flex under pressure?
Im not advocating for trail gear specifically, but there are at least a couple brands that make the same length lines for about the same price. Pretty sure Marlin had some? When I priced mine out the savings from double-rubber lines were only a few bucks cheaper than single-stainless.
Also, I believe the double-rubber lines give you way more length than the stainless options, so there is certainly an advantage to them there. Especially if you plan to go big or get extra flexy in the future
Whats the advantage to going straight to the caliper? Less points of failure? Dont the 6"ish hardlines position the soft lines out of the way of the wheel and suspension etc. Not to mention almost no flex under pressure?
Im not advocating for trail gear specifically, but there are at least a couple brands that make the same length lines for about the same price. Pretty sure Marlin had some? When I priced mine out the savings from double-rubber lines were only a few bucks cheaper than single-stainless.
Also, I believe the double-rubber lines give you way more length than the stainless options, so there is certainly an advantage to them there. Especially if you plan to go big or get extra flexy in the future
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Some people remove the dust shield behind the rotor. Why they do this baffles me. The usual claim is that rocks get stuck in there. I suppose it is possible, but in ~20 years experience messing with these trucks I've never seen nor heard of it happening to anyone that I know.
In doing away with the dust shield the hose mounting tab goes away too, necessitating going straight to the caliper. I debated cutting the suggested slot and decided that I'd rather remove the tab and the hard line entirely instead. Doing that does pose another set of problems though. The hose then needs careful routing to keep it out of moving parts.
I suspect that most vets of the old ORC yota email list also avoid TG at all costs, particularly those who were there at the end. PM if you want the whole story.
In doing away with the dust shield the hose mounting tab goes away too, necessitating going straight to the caliper. I debated cutting the suggested slot and decided that I'd rather remove the tab and the hard line entirely instead. Doing that does pose another set of problems though. The hose then needs careful routing to keep it out of moving parts.
I suspect that most vets of the old ORC yota email list also avoid TG at all costs, particularly those who were there at the end. PM if you want the whole story.
I cut the backing plate and when I did it is cut it all off but the hose mounting tab. I did it because I'm running IFS hubs which caused there to be a space between the rotor and backingredients plate.
I run IFS hubs as well and ditched the backing plate when I upgraded to Tundra calipers/rotors. I run the hard lines to a tab welded to the back of the steering arm and stainless lines from Front Range Off-road that have the correct fittings and length.