Older or newer (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Threads
122
Messages
722
Location
Ingerland
I am looking at buying a 100 series cruiser. I have seen a nice one with 50,000 miles on it manufactured in 1998. For the same money I can buy a 2001 model with 98,000 miles - All else being equal - what would you buy?

Jim
 
Jim with the 98 you will need to do the timing belt and water pump even though it only has 50K miles because of the years on it. Also all the belts and hoses are older and it doesn't have the traction control that the 2001 does. These things are over built so you should be able to get 400K++ miles with normal maintance so over time that 48K miles difference won't mean that much. I would play one off the other and if you can get the 98 for $3K less then the 2001 then go for it other wise I would get the 2001
 
3 years is a chunk in resale value, look up the numbers
100K for a 2001 is not out of line
2001 has Trac etc
rear air needed?
if you're gonna drive a lot, then the 50K more miles advantage will slowly disappear
90K service done?
 
I am looking at buying a 100 series cruiser. I have seen a nice one with 50,000 miles on it manufactured in 1998. For the same money I can buy a 2001 model with 98,000 miles - All else being equal - what would you buy?

Jim


Jim: What is your intended use/application #1? If for general transportation (family outings, etc.) especially if you live in a part of the country that gets ice/snow/heavy rain the TRAC & TSC on the '00+ is valuable. Other than that if you are buying it to mod for more off-road use it's probably a toss up. Buy the one that has been given the best care; preferably 1-owner; regular scheduled maintenance; etc.
 
I also suggest going for the one that has been better taken care.
 
In general, I prefer newer car, higher miles. Most likely, many of those miles are highway miles, so little wear and tear on the drivetrain. The main wear & tear is from start/stop cycles (starting from a dead stop like in city driving). Look to see when the brake pads were changed. That might indicate how the PO drove the vehicle. If mostly highway miles, the pads should have plenty of material. The elements is also another major factor that wears the car. Age, UV light, extreme heat/cold, moisture, etc. degrade the rubber, rust bolts, harden seals, etc.
 
Thanks for these thoughts..

The truck will be my daily drive. I will be using it for a short daily commute to work (4miles) and as a family vehicle at weekends. Some of the weekend trips can be 150+ miles (you can't go much further than that from where I live before you get to the sea)

I do go offroad - mainly for shooting ducks, geese, pheasant, pigeons, deer -depending on the season.. It is normally just muddy fields, rough tracks etc so I won't be doing much to modify except maybe buy some OME springs and all terrain tyres.

I have had an 80 series in the past and now want a big, safe and reliable truck that can transport me, the family and the dogs - so it has to be a Landcruiser.

I need to find out nore about where the 50,000 miles truck has been driven. If it has been used for a 1 hour commute in city traffic each day it could have low miles but high wear - that was a good point. I am just beginning my search and plan to wait for the right vehicle..

Itis good to be back on ih8mud and I appreciate the help and advice...

Jim
 
2001 - VSC and ATRAC and rear HVAC make the difference.

Where are you located?
 
have you seen that video on top gear about the different SUVs for hunting in england?

The one that picks on toyota's green color on the 100 and then tells you the range rover is the greatest vehicle to ever live. It looks like it has the same looking color on it as the land cruiser.
 
The one that picks on toyota's green color on the 100 and then tells you the range rover is the greatest vehicle to ever live. It looks like it has the same looking color on it as the land cruiser.

well, the guy owns the 100 himself, so that has to tell you something. Being on a brit tele show, if he had said anything other than the Rangie being the best ever, he would have gotten in trouble. Was funny at the end of the feature how they kept pointing out allllll the problems LRs have had over the years.
 
I am in staffordshire - in the middle of the UK.

Are you talking about the Top Gear program on TV? Almost none of my friends drive LRs any more - lots used to but they are all fed up with the reliability.

There was a great Top Gear show on sunday where the presenters set out to prove that it was possible to buy a car to drive accros the southern states for less money than it would cost you to hire one. The had a lot of trouble when one of the painted Man Love Rules on the side of one of the car. They nearly got lynched in Alabama..
 
All 2000 and newer 100s come standard with VSC and ATRAC in the US. I don't think it is an optional feature here. I am assuming that it is the same in the UK as well.
 
I agree w/ others that TRAC, VSC, and rear a/c are worth the extra mileage for a family and commuter car. Go with the newer version.
 
Put down another vote for the newer one.

What would really be a score is if you could find the service records & see if the 90K had been done...
 
didn't you put a lot of work into an 80, propane etc?
 
I am looking at buying a 100 series cruiser. I have seen a nice one with 50,000 miles on it manufactured in 1998. For the same money I can buy a 2001 model with 98,000 miles - All else being equal - what would you buy?

Jim


Jim, the difference between the daily drive of the 1999 and newer is dramatic. The way the truck responds to the road is very different. My 2000 has over a 130k on it and I still use it for a daily drive and on long trips. while it is not as smooth as the 03's and newer it is still way better than 99 or older. Check out the differences online. Center locking differential with traction control vs rear locking differential etc
YOu will definately need to stay up on maintinance, tire rotations and fluid changes are a must. I have gone through two sets of facotry brakes in less than 30k due to a move that put me 5 miles from work via city driving vs highway. I upgraded to the slotted/vented front disc brakes that the lexus uses and had been getting much better wear. One thing I have noticed in searching for used LC/LX's is people either take really good care of it and will love to tell you ow they spent so much, or they didn't. I made the mistake of passing up a perfectly maintained 99LX with 80k on it for a Nicer looking 2000 with the upgrades. I even found out who the previous ower was and called her. She assured me that toyota did all the maintinance and she was so happy she traded in for a new one. After I bought it toyota sent me the records and she changed the oil ever 3k like clockwork and did nothing else. I have since replaced the radiator and had all of the fluids systems power flushed since they had more than 90k in use.

2000 or newer is better 03 or newer is best. If you go to a local lexus dealer they will charge about $120.00 and do the full inspection, just like Lexus certified pre-owed. If I had done this I could have saved over a grand. I didn't know how important it is/was to change all the fluids. the differentials and the timing belt are probable the most over looked on high mileage LC's. I have done alot of research and can find the things all over, kind of a hobby. let me know if you want me to find you one. I recently found an 03 mint with nav and 100k for $29K let me know
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom