Oilcan Top

[Kief]

What does a shrinking disc look like?

 

[Toyrod]

You definitely need to work all the dents out first so you know where all your soft spots are before you start heating anything. The reason you need to let the metal cool all the way to room temperature is because metal expands with heat. If one area of the roof or hood is 120 f and the rest is 80 f, you don't have a good idea of what the metal is going to look like when it's stable.

A shrinking disc is a metal disc that attaches to an angle grinder. It looks like corrugated metal on the outside edge. Quality ones are made out of about 14 gauge stainless steel. You run this over your high spots on a damaged panel and it will heat those high spots. Then the cool rag to cool them down. Sunchaser Tools has a website and sells a complete system. Cost is around $100 to $300 depending on accessories plus you need a 7 inch grinder. Cost includes detailed instructions and video. www.sunchasertools.com You can buy a shrinking disc on ebay for $20 bucks. If you don't use it correctly, you can waste a lot of good body parts.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Here are some pics. It rained all weekend so I wasn't able to mark the top out like I should have. The rubber hose represents the area on this roof that is collapsed. The rocks show where I would do the initial heating. I would start with the center of the back of the roof and then one on the front. Then to the back again.

The weather is supposed to straighten out next week. I will update these photos with some better representation.

I have the exact same depression in my 45 lwb. I have heard of people fixing hail damage with spot heating but never seen it done correctly and would never have tried it before seeing this thread. I will use a torch when I get to fixin the top now!!

Excellent thread!!

 

[island45]

Most likely I'll do some kind of mechanical fix since I've never done any of this heating and I can't just run out and get another top if I screw it up.... I won't be fixing anything for a couple of weeks as I ran my thumb and middle finger into a 24 tooth ripper last week in the cabinetshop. Dang, that hurts! But now I have some time to plan my repair before the rainy season.

 

[Kief]

yep

You definitely need to work all the dents out first so you know where all your soft spots are before you start heating anything. The reason you need to let the metal cool all the way to room temperature is because metal expands with heat. If one area of the roof or hood is 120 f and the rest is 80 f, you don't have a good idea of what the metal is going to look like when it's stable.

A shrinking disc is a metal disc that attaches to an angle grinder. It looks like corrugated metal on the outside edge. Quality ones are made out of about 14 gauge stainless steel. You run this over your high spots on a damaged panel and it will heat those high spots. Then the cool rag to cool them down. Sunchaser Tools has a website and sells a complete system. Cost is around $100 to $300 depending on accessories plus you need a 7 inch grinder. Cost includes detailed instructions and video. www.sunchasertools.com You can buy a shrinking disc on ebay for $20 bucks. If you don't use it correctly, you can waste a lot of good body parts.

I searched and found a website that showed how to make one or buy one that a guy makes, definitely a neat trick. Obvious both techniques requires some finesse. I was thoroughly impressed with a no bodyfiller repair..

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

As promised,

Here are some pics of the brace that came with my HJ45 from Oz (Can you see why I thought it was for mail?).

The main bars are spaced about 5" apart. The bolt holes attach at the front and the rear is held in by the shape and pressure.

Let me know if you need any other pictures. I hope your finger/thumb gets better. Ouch.

 

[island45]

For some reason I dont get all the photos that are posted. Certain types dont come through. I really wanted to see them. Not sure if theres any other way. PM me and email them? I'll be gone for 2 days, and thanks for all the help, all of you. Gary

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Sent.

 

[malcb]

For some reason I dont get all the photos that are posted.

I see them all, specially your fingers and it's 8 in the morning here as I eat my cornflakes, ouch those look sore hopeyour OK.

 

[island45]

Sorry about your breakfast. My new gf is a nurse and she knows all the tricks to make them feel better. Stitches out tomorrow, then onto my roof and doors. Did a 300 mile round trip on the freeway to a really fun Seattle Cruiserheads meeting/barbeque this week. Gosh an open air 45 sure gets a lot of thumbs ups on the mainland. I had a huge thumb bandage for the reply.. OK, a question to all you 45 ers or should this be a new thread? Any opinions here? Should I use late style doors for the less rattles/ better stiffness etc., or the originals for the 'look'? . The originals are rust free Arizona style and the newer ones will need some minor rust repair. Never had new style before. Are they a lot better?

 

[spotcruiser]

Hey Gary. It's great that you made it to the annual bbq. Sorry that I couldn't attend. I was back east all week.

Be more careful with power tools from now on. Ouch.

Todd.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I took 1/2"x1/2" angle, cut to the length of each corrugate, bowed them a bit and stitch welded them in about every six inches or so.

I've never had "new doors" but I'd say the newer ones wouldn't be as stout as the older style. The older ones are made out of heavier gage steel I think. My old doors are solid, no rattles.