Oil pressue sender question 3B

[eleblanc]

Are there 2 pressure sender? on for the cluster gauge and a other for the edic?

From the drawing i seen at the dealer, there is one pretty big for the gauge cluster, and a other one smaller, probably a switch to shut down the edic in case of no pressure.

I've been having the start then stop problem since the winter has started. I start the truck it runs 5 seconds then stops. I restart and it won't stop again and run fines. So i think it doesn't read pressure and causing it to initially stop. But my truck is in the garage (heated). So i cannot really blame, thick 15W40 oil.....

So i'll change the oil pressure sender/switch causing it to stop?

 

[too tall]

How many kms on your truck ? mine's done that since I got it . I think it's pretty normal. Older engines take a little longer to make oil pressure .

 

[eleblanc]

Only has 170000km but i'm starting to think it is not the correct km..

I will do a pressure test in the spring.

 

[jb BJ73]

My bj73 sometimes does this. i turn the key to on, wait for the first glow relay click then start it, wait a second or two then pick up the revs just a little bit (like less than 50rpm) until the oil pressure gauge goes up then give it a bit more. when it cuts out i think it does it when the second relay clicks, cutting the rest of the power to the glow plugs-this is the superglow system isn't it? What i think is happening is the combustion chamber isn't quite hot enough after the glow plugs turn off completely to keep the combustion going. i think if i got new injectors it would mostly stop it from happening, although it hasn't done it since i got a new battery.

 

[amaurer]

Yeah, there's two, the big one for the gauge and the smaller one for the EDIC. They're on the same harness, so just follow the wire; the big one can be seen readily but the little guy is tucked under the alternator.

I find that loose/dirty connections and really mess with those things. I "fixed" my low oil pressure indication by scrubbing the connector.

It'd be easy enough for you to have someone watch the EDIC arm tomorrow morning... I also tested the EDIC shutoff by pulling the wire and just grounding it when the engine is running.

 

[eleblanc]

Yeah, there's two, the big one for the gauge and the smaller one for the EDIC. They're on the same harness, so just follow the wire; the big one can be seen readily but the little guy is tucked under the alternator.

I find that loose/dirty connections and really mess with those things. I "fixed" my low oil pressure indication by scrubbing the connector.

It'd be easy enough for you to have someone watch the EDIC arm tomorrow morning... I also tested the EDIC shutoff by pulling the wire and just grounding it when the engine is running.

Will try that thanks.

 

[amaurer]

Will try that thanks.

I think you got my meaning, but I should clarify: the little sensor switches to ground when pressure is low, so to bypass this safety feature just pull the wire and leave it disconnected. If you clip it to ground indefinitely you'll never get the thing started.

 

[eleblanc]

I understood, and i can use a tester to see if the pressure switch works fine.I don't really like the idea of going to 20W50

 

[Henry James the 47th]

If the low pressure switch proves by test to be fine, the other source of the trouble could be the EDIC Fuel control relay.

 

[Big Blue 84BJ60]

i use to have this problem and i just got my injectors rebuilt new tips and set to open at the correct preassure (85 3b was fj60) and i no longer have this problem

just a thought

 

[Gyrkin]

Could ya put a pic up of the sending units? I need to reconnect the oil, tach, speedo... and I hope one of those has to do with the two-conductor plug on the transmission that isn't attached to anything now... A downloadable manual would really help...

Thanks, guys!

 

[Ron R]

Could ya put a pic up of the sending units? I need to reconnect the oil, tach, speedo... and I hope one of those has to do with the two-conductor plug on the transmission that isn't attached to anything now... A downloadable manual would really help...

Thanks, guys!

John,
have you looked here for the manual?

 

[eleblanc]

Could ya put a pic up of the sending units? I need to reconnect the oil, tach, speedo... and I hope one of those has to do with the two-conductor plug on the transmission that isn't attached to anything now... A downloadable manual would really help...

Thanks, guys!

If you don't find the link posted i'll post a pic

 

[Gyrkin]

Hey, Ron and Eric!

I did try that link, but it doesn't work for me, comes up 404. Ron, if you have it downloaded, can ya send a copy to my email?

I am sure a manual would be a huge help... all the more so if it were in english. My french is barely tolerable, and when it comes to technical terms, I am quickly lost. SO the french manual for my motorcycle was kindq like kindergarten - good for the pictures only!

Thank you, gents!

 

[Ron R]

John,
at the moment I'm unable to get to that site as well. Will try later.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

I was having this exact same problem recently with my 3B in my BJ42 especially if the vehicle sat for a few days. It started when I swtiched to 15w50 full synthetic oil. I put this oil in because the oil pressure gauge in my dash was scaring the crap out of me. It barely registered oil pressure at idle after the engine was warm.

Now that I've got a mechanical oil pressure gauge I can see there's plenty of pressure and the stock gauge is barely useful as a reference point. My oil level was a little low on the dipstick so I figured I'd run a full bottle of Seafoam through the crankcase before changing the oil. After 25 miles with the Seafoam I changed the oil and filter and went back to Rotella 5w40 synthetic. Now it starts up first try ans stays running even after sitting for a week or more. I assume it's because the 5w40 builds pressure faster on a cold start than the 15w50 does. I don't know of the Seafoam had anything to do with it.

I haven't looked at the oil circuit in the FSM but I assume there's some kind of valve at the oil pump that's supposed to prevent the pressure-side oil from draining back through the pump. This valve could get warn out over time. I'm just guessing though.

 

[eleblanc]

15W50? if i recall i am using 15W40 motomaster, and will be switching in the spring for rotella 15W40.

15W50 must be real thick?

 

[RufusTheDufus]

15w50 synth isn't significantly thicker at 42 degrees F than 15w40. The "15" is the cold temp viscosity. The "40" or the "50" are the hot temp viscosities. The 50 would be more viscous/thicker at operating temp than the 40.

The 15w50 full synthetic was a Napa branded product. I was looking for the most viscous operating-temp synthetic I could find locally because I thought my engine had no oil pressure based on the dash gauge.