Oil Pan - will it leak??

[Towpack]

And that even if that were the case, the strainer on the oil pump would prevent these from being pushed up into the oil passages??

Sure would.That's what it's there for.Should'nt worry about the seal.It is not under any pressure other than crankcase pressure which is nothing really,even in an engine with exccesive blow-by.

 

[83bj60]

I know Wayne is being cautious here, but seriously what are the actual risks? Wayne?

If you applied two 1/8"beads (one inside and one outside of the bolts) it will ooze out a bit. I would only worry IF the pan was so tightened that the FIPG is down to thousands in thickness and the "oozed beads" have nothing to hang on to.

Robert, why don't you try pulling them with your fingers from the outside of the pan? That would give you an idea how solid the stuff is...

 

[rstl99]

Sure would.That's what it's there for.Should'nt worry about the seal.It is not under any pressure other than crankcase pressure which is nothing really,even in an engine with exccesive blow-by.

Thanks Phil, that's what I figured. Good to hear that confirmation.

Robert, why don't you try pulling them with your fingers from the outside of the pan? That would give you an idea how solid the stuff is...

Good idea, will crawl underneath and have a look tonight. I expect this Toyota FIPG sticks like a son-of-a-gun, so taking this apart is the last thing I want to have to do! I figure I can extract the 2 broken bolts with the pan in place, should I decide to do so.

 

[brownbear]

the trick with this sealant is to put a small bead on, install the pan(or whatever) and tighten it very lightly so that the surfaces just touch all around but do not squeeze yet. Then after an overnight you can torque to final spec. That way the pressure is on the sealant but it won't squeeze out.

The advantage of the cork, is you intall it, torque it and add oil ...... start it up. Sealant is better but takes effort to do it right.

My sealant got 6 months to dry before I added oil.....LOL Garage projects VS DD's..

 

[brownbear]

Oh as far as pulling the pan again... only if your bead is pouring out on the outside I would pull it. Cause then you know you have too much on the inside.

Oh and for sealant I would use "ultra black" by loctite. It's an RTV type sealant that is black. I'm sure it's cheaper than actual Toyota sealant. And it doesn't set up in 15 mins. You have plenty of time to position the pan and lightly raise the bolts. Then go to bed. In the morning final torque. After work at 5 add oil.

If you have to pull it again I would suggest welding in a turbo bung for the return. go with .500 inch ID. Weld in a scully so that you can install a plug till you actually put a turbo on it. It's only a matter of time you install a turbo. And you will have to pull the pan again to do it otherwise.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/61755-oil-pan-man.html

 

[83bj60]

Yep, hand tighten, go for lunch, torque. Great way to do it. At least the sealant got a little more elastic and it can still be squished for conforming to irregularites. It's not rocket science... We're not dealing with 6000 degree gases and million pounds of thrust there...

 

[crushers]

yes, i am being serious here.
silicone and hot oil do not go well together
and
the strainer will keep the larger chuncks out but the small s*** is what you want to worry about. remember the oil clearence in the bearings is thousands of an inch, not a quarter of an inch...

in all seriousness, it is your engine and your worry level... my level on MY engines is pretty relaxed, on a customers engine i am much more concerned... after all, i go through engines like some people go though tires...

 

[canucksafari]

Oh and for sealant I would use "ultra black" by loctite. It's an RTV type sealant that is black. I'm sure it's cheaper than actual Toyota sealant. And it doesn't set up in 15 mins.

That's the name of the stuff. I like all of their products. The copper stuff is also real good for high temp applications.

 

[Towpack]

,

the strainer will keep the larger chuncks out but the small s*** is what you want to worry about. remember the oil clearence in the bearings is thousands of an inch, not a quarter of an inch...

That is true but IMO any bits of sealer or whatever that are small enough to get through the strainer would pass straight though the oil pump and be caught by the filter.

 

[83bj60]

yes, i am being serious here.
silicone and hot oil do not go well together
and
the strainer will keep the larger chuncks out but the small s*** is what you want to worry about. remember the oil clearence in the bearings is thousands of an inch, not a quarter of an inch...

Yes, but the oil still goes through the filter first...

 

[83bj60]

Towpack, "Jinx" like we used to say when we were kids

 

[rstl99]

Oh as far as pulling the pan again... only if your bead is pouring out on the outside I would pull it. Cause then you know you have too much on the inside.

Thanks. I took a few pictures just now of the beading on the outside, showing the places where there is more beading. The beads are rubbery to the touch, and do break off when I pull on them.
If the pan has to come out it's going to come out, and will be done better next time (in light of the great advice on this thread, that I wish I could have asked for BEFORE I started).