Oil Pan Gasket... again...

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Aug 10, 2015
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Oregon
First time posting on MUD. Have read a ton, and have gained a ton of insight. What a great site for an FJ owner. I have been working on some oil leaks on a 77 FJ40 that I recently purchased. Thanks to MUD, I pulled the tranny/transfer case, clutch, flywheel, replaced the rear main seal, removed the oil pan (stuck on there major), and the old oil pan gasket. Now I am beginning the re assembly process and have all the parts, so I think. I bought an engine gasket set off of cruiser corps, and I cannot seem to get the oil pan gasket to fit the oil pan properly? I haven't done a ton of oil pan gaskets in my life (actually zero), but this thing does not seem to match up to the oil pan without me altering it to some degree. I have tried to lengthen the corner holes to make the ends of the pan match the gasket better. After some head scratching, this just doesn't seem like a good idea. I may have been burned by the non-oem part problem. Does anyone have any experience with these gaskets? I suppose I should just order an OEM gasket, and go from there. I just don't want to get that one and it does the same thing? I appreciate your time and patience with me in this matter.
 
I didn't take pics. Shoulda. I yanked it off there and chunked it out in the yard for a bit. Took a deep breath and picked it back up. Haven't put it back on. As far as how far off? Well, I had to stretch the dang thing to reach both ends of the pan. Then it wouldn't sit in the end of the pan without me wallet in' out the 4 corner holes a bit. Just didn't seem right. Thanks for the replies. I am learning a lesson mostly. Buy oem when possible...always.
 
i like the OEM cork but I've also used the red cork type gasket and I liked it. Follow posers oil pan gasket procedures (in the FAQ?) and you can't go wrong.
 
hiya, I think I got my last engine gasket off of cruiser corps, and it worked. Anyways, IIRC, the trick is to put the gasket on the engine surface rather than the pan. I think poser has a good write up on it in the faq's that should help. The grooves on the front and back are on the engine surface and that's the PITA. I cleaned the surfaces really well with brake fluid, then put permatex orange gasket sealer on the front and rear side to the engine groove and tied the gasket to the engine block with string and then put the pan with sealer on the four corners as per the fsm.
Doing that rather than putting the gasket on the oil pan seemed to do the trick.

Good luck! ty
:beer:
 
I used posers method for sure. That guy has some legit advice. This gasket is the red one (or at least a red one), just doesn't seem that I should have to stretch the thing and waller the bolt holes out of it to make it fit the pan.
 
hiya, I think I got my last engine gasket off of cruiser corps, and it worked. Anyways, IIRC, the trick is to put the gasket on the engine surface rather than the pan. I think poser has a good write up on it in the faq's that should help. The grooves on the front and back are on the engine surface and that's the PITA. I cleaned the surfaces really well with brake fluid, then put permatex orange gasket sealer on the front and rear side to the engine groove and tied the gasket to the engine block with string and then put the pan with sealer on the four corners as per the fsm.
Doing that rather than putting the gasket on the oil pan seemed to do the trick.

Good luck! ty
:beer:

I didn't think of doing it that way. I will try that tomorrow. I thought that posers tech had it on the pan first? I coulda read it wrong. The holes in the pan may still have an issue with the holes in the gasket.
 
I used posers method for sure. That guy has some legit advice. This gasket is the red one (or at least a red one), just doesn't seem that I should have to stretch the thing and waller the bolt holes out of it to make it fit the pan.

I've always used cork gaskets so i'm thinking i've been doing oem.

also, i just tied the gasket through the bolt holes to hold it up.
 
posers is on the pan first i think. Tie a string through most of the holes - use a couple threaded rods to help raise it up into position so you can make sure the gasket is where you want it - apply your FIPG just as he says to (I usually do the corners and the humps) then use the 4 threaded rods and tighten the nuts to walk the pan up into position. Start threading in bolts and cut the strings as you go. The more strings you use the easier it will be.

remember inch pounds! not foot pounds! for the torque
 
I appreciate all the info. I feel confident in the information here about placing the gasket. My main question was, has anyone else had an issue with an aftermarket pan gasket. It seems that that is where my trouble are. The fit for the pan seems to be way off for me. If the thing fit the pan better, while it may be a semi pita to install, it would still match the holes and fit the ends of the pan without significant alteration. I think oem is where it's at. Now if the oem gasket fits like this "red" cork one, I'll be bummed and forced to be even more patient.
 
My main question was, has anyone else had an issue with an aftermarket pan gasket. It seems that that is where my trouble are. The fit for the pan seems to be way off for me.

Throw that one away and buy an OEM Toyota gasket, they're not that expensive and available at any dealer.

The only other thing I would add is that most 2F oil pans have bent flanges from over-tightening and/or being pried off. Put it upside-down on a good smooth concrete floor, and use a block of wood with a squared edge (or anything else flat and square (true) that fits) and a hammer to beat the flanges into some semblance of flat and parallel to the floor.
 
Just another thought since you said you want to avoid doing all this work and having the same problem...
A very common problem with FJ40 oil pans (ask me how I know) is small cracks in the pan where the skid plate is welded to the pan.
Since your pan is off, I would inspect this area and pour in something like alcohol or lacquer thinner that will find and leak through a small crack if it exists. It'll take you 10 minutes-well worth the time.
 
I'll start by saying...just get an OEM oil pan gasket. That solved everything. The gasket that came from cruiser corps is not worth hassling with. OEM is the only way to go here. Lesson learned.
 
I've done a few gaskets on my 3fe. I used oem and toyota has a gasket gue of their own. it's awesome stuff and if use it again any day. I had the hole in the pan problem at the skid plate but didnt recognize it until I got it all sealed up the first time. well I had to do it all again and I learned the hard way that on that engine there actually was a front and back. guess how I learned? it leaked like crazy so third time was a charm. doh!! anyway. oem one piece gasket and oem gasket gue is the way to go for sure. not that expensive but you know it'll work. believe me this is one job you want to do right the first time.
 

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