Oil leaks - diff and hub (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter benmgsr
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rear axle seal and gasket and pinion seal and new nut.
Might be a long shot, but here it is. My brothers Tacoma was leaking oil from his rear semifloater axel, out of his axel seals. He bought new seals and we had the truck on blocks ready to disasemble, for whatever reason he began fiddilling with his diff breather cap. As soon as he did this the cap/diff let out some air (under pressure), the breather must of been not letting the diff "breathe". So we crossed our fingers, cleaned up where the leak was and put the truck back on the road. 3 weeks later and the leak hasn't resurfaced
I'm sure Simon's right about the seals, but hey it take 2 seconds to check the breather cap.
Not to sure if anyone ever had this happen to them?
Joel.
I'm sure Simon's right about the seals, but hey it take 2 seconds to check the breather cap.
Not to sure if anyone ever had this happen to them?
Joel.
canadian bum
SILVER Star
My taco did the same thing but instead it used the ARB air supply line for the locker as a breather. I fixed it by extending my breather to the top of the bed. However yours is probably actually leaking. You will need a new seal for the pinion though.
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and when you do the hub, tighten or check your rear wheel bearing or more than likely if you just do the gasket it will leak again
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NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use silicone to seal the axle shaft.
Use the factory supplied paper gasket for this.
~John
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The rear bearings will need to be repacked with grease. You're going to need new grease seals for the bearing hub and a new axle shaft (spindle) seal, as well as the "multi-hole" paper hub gasket. Do not use silicone in place of the hub gasket.
As other have mentioned, check the breather and make sure it's clear of any blockages.
If you are going to install a new pinion nut or seal on a crush sleeve rear end, you need to install a new crush sleeve or a hard spacer (in place of the crush sleeve).
~John
PS: Do not use silicone in place of the hub gasket.
As other have mentioned, check the breather and make sure it's clear of any blockages.
If you are going to install a new pinion nut or seal on a crush sleeve rear end, you need to install a new crush sleeve or a hard spacer (in place of the crush sleeve).
~John
PS: Do not use silicone in place of the hub gasket.
canadian bum
SILVER Star
Just checked the FSM and Radd is right I gave crappy advice. I'm used to working on different axles such as Dana 60, Sterling 10.25, and heavy truck full floats. I just assumed the Toyota FF axles were an oil bath for lubrication of the rear bearings. They will be oil contaminated for sure.
Radd could you use a gasket maker such as loctite 515? I can see why you wouldn't use silicone because of the fact that it is really flexy and upon assembly it would squash out and not provide enough film to provide a seal.
Radd could you use a gasket maker such as loctite 515? I can see why you wouldn't use silicone because of the fact that it is really flexy and upon assembly it would squash out and not provide enough film to provide a seal.
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Actually, you should not use silicone to seal any axle shaft to a hub, though larger axles/flanges/hardware won't have as much of a problem.
Silicone is slippery, and you want the friction to hold the shaft to the hub. People who use silicone are also the ones who complain about sheared studs...
Use the factory paper gasket on dry and clean surfaces as outlined in the FSM.
~John
