Oil leak location

[Kernal]

IIRC I used Permatex Ultra Gasket maker and it's still dry in that area after ?? years. Lots of other choices, Toyota FIPG (black), The Right Stuff, Hondabond, Yamabond, everyone has their favorite as long as it's meant for (engine) oil exposure IME.

Key IMO is to clean every bit of oil and grime out of that area until it's squeaky clean so the sealant will stick, just a quick wipe then slathering the sealant over grime won't hold. IIRC I spent well over an hour (probably more) cleaning that one small area ie: degreaser, wash, repeat, then manual cleaning, picks (and even Q-tips), wash, repeat, repeat, repeat. Final cleaning was first with CRC Electronics cleaner (TCE, no Acetone) and just some final swipes with Acetone on paper towels and Q-tips. I did not spray any strong solvent directly into the slot because of the O-ring that's down in there (see photos above); IME strong solvents like Acetone, Toluene, or Xylene (brake cleaner, Throttle Body/Carb cleaners) can damage old rubber components very quickly.

 

[bski90]

I had pooling ontop of the oil pump and would leak onto the ground... Ended up being a cracked timing cover. So far I've patched half of it, need to pull the water pump to get the other half. Unfortunate, but did stop most of the leaking.

 

[Conn]

Thanks for the insight on this, gents. I have an 80 series here that appears to be seeping out from the pry point in the timing cover. I've been pulling my hair out trying to get a solid diagnosis on it.

 

[96TOYLAND]

Couple years ago I got a drip of oil seating right on top of the oil pump It look it was coming from the bottom pry slot, so I cleaned and applied FIPG to the whole area the leak stopped by 80 percent for couple months. After reading this thread I decided to remove my alternator and distributor to do a better cleaning and apply some Permatex, I could clearly see that the leak was coming from the vertical pry slot. I cleaned very well and applied a lot of Permatex we will see what happen.

 

[rannon]

That is good work! I'll be curious to hear it it takes care of it - thanks for the pictures.

 

[96TOYLAND]

Couple years ago I got a drip of oil seating right on top of the oil pump It look it was coming from the bottom pry slot, so I cleaned and applied FIPG to the whole area the leak stopped by 80 percent for couple months. After reading this thread I decided to remove my alternator and distributor to do a better cleaning and apply some Permatex, I could clearly see that the leak was coming from the vertical pry slot. I cleaned very well and applied a lot of Permatex we will see what happen.

View attachment 3872871

View attachment 3872873

View attachment 3872874

update. I didn't work!! after couple weeks aprox. 500 miles I see the oil coming out again from the same place. its not as much as it used to be, but it is coming out again. Any suggestions how to fix this

 

[Kernal]

If you're absolutely sure that leak is coming from the timing chain cover seam/pry point, you might could try a different sealant. Hondabond for example, after removing the old sealant and super-cleaning the pry-slot, again.

NOTE: IMHO most people probably won't spend enough time cleaning before they apply the sealant. Super squeaky clean down into the slot is the key to getting this cheat method "fix" to work. If it doesn't work even after removing all traces of oil deep into the pry slot, that could mean either the O-ring behind the pry slot is significantly deteriorated and/or the original sealant between the timing chain cover and the block has failed. In that scenario this fix probably won't work.
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FWIW:

One guess is that the pry point, down inside, was not clean enough so the sealant did not stick well enough to seal it up.
It is one of those jobs where to get it right, IMHO, you have to spend a lot of time being crazy OCD when cleaning out that slot using Q-tips,
picks, Q-tips, spray, picks, spray, Q-tips, spray, repeatedly over and over again so the sealant will have enough clean metal inside the slot to actually stick and seal. I probably went though dozens of Q-tips when cleaning out that slot, at least, until they came out clean, then did it again. OCD space shuttle clean room clean.

Then forced the sealant into the pry point over and over again ie: not just to cover the hole, but down into the hole slot. It is definitely not something a real mechanic could/would spend the time doing ie: they would do it the right way (remove the timing chain cover).

Could be that the O-ring behind the pry slot is significantly deteriorated so more pressurized oil is getting by than expected and if that's the case
then all the more reason to do it the right way (remove/reseal the timing chain cover).

Having said all that, I've done it that way (cleaning out the slot) to two 80's and no leaks after years and many thousands of miles on both.

Or, you could live with it.

But for a long term fix at some point you may have to bite the bullet and go by the book (FSM), ie: remove the timing chain cover, replace the O-rings, super clean all surfaces to remove any trace of old sealant and oil, using ACETONE for the final cleaning to get the metal surfaces squeaky clean. Then reseal the cover to the block. And while it's out reseal the oil pump cover, crank seal, etc,etc and perform any other repairs or preventive maintenance while it's all apart.

All that could be ballpark $3000+ depending on who/where the work is done.

And if your engine still has the original head gasket and getting up in miles (200,000+??) you might also consider pulling the head to have it rebuilt (valve stem seals, regrind valves, etc) and replace the head gasket, all at the same time the timing chain is off. That is of course a much bigger and more expensive
job if you have to pay someone to do that work ie: $10,000+/-. And that would allow you to replace the timing chain slippers/guides which can wear and even break with age/miles.

Been discussed before but a few people have removed the timing chain cover without removing the head but the lower pans have to come off, so good time to reseal those particularly the upper pan at the rear arch area which is often misdiagnosed as a rear crank seal leak.

Wait for others to chime in.

 

[rannon]

update. I didn't work!! after couple weeks aprox. 500 miles I see the oil coming out again from the same place. its not as much as it used to be, but it is coming out again. Any suggestions how to fix this

update. I didn't work!! after couple weeks aprox. 500 miles I see the oil coming out again from the same place. its not as much as it used to be, but it is coming out again. Any suggestions how to fix this

View attachment 3891840

Shoot! Look at that, dang! I need to go check mine now.

 

[96TOYLAND]

If you're absolutely sure that leak is coming from the timing chain cover seam/pry point, you might could try a different sealant. Hondabond for example, after removing the old sealant and super-cleaning the pry-slot, again.

NOTE: IMHO most people probably won't spend enough time cleaning before they apply the sealant. Super squeaky clean down into the slot is the key to getting this cheat method "fix" to work. If it doesn't work even after removing all traces of oil deep into the pry slot, that could mean either the O-ring behind the pry slot is significantly deteriorated and/or the original sealant between the timing chain cover and the block has failed. In that scenario this fix probably won't work.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FWIW:

One guess is that the pry point, down inside, was not clean enough so the sealant did not stick well enough to seal it up.
It is one of those jobs where to get it right, IMHO, you have to spend a lot of time being crazy OCD when cleaning out that slot using Q-tips,
picks, Q-tips, spray, picks, spray, Q-tips, spray, repeatedly over and over again so the sealant will have enough clean metal inside the slot to actually stick and seal. I probably went though dozens of Q-tips when cleaning out that slot, at least, until they came out clean, then did it again. OCD space shuttle clean room clean.

Then forced the sealant into the pry point over and over again ie: not just to cover the hole, but down into the hole slot. It is definitely not something a real mechanic could/would spend the time doing ie: they would do it the right way (remove the timing chain cover).

Could be that the O-ring behind the pry slot is significantly deteriorated so more pressurized oil is getting by than expected and if that's the case
then all the more reason to do it the right way (remove/reseal the timing chain cover).

Having said all that, I've done it that way (cleaning out the slot) to two 80's and no leaks after years and many thousands of miles on both.

Or, you could live with it.

But for a long term fix at some point you may have to bite the bullet and go by the book (FSM), ie: remove the timing chain cover, replace the O-rings, super clean all surfaces to remove any trace of old sealant and oil, using ACETONE for the final cleaning to get the metal surfaces squeaky clean. Then reseal the cover to the block. And while it's out reseal the oil pump cover, crank seal, etc,etc and perform any other repairs or preventive maintenance while it's all apart.

All that could be ballpark $3000+ depending on who/where the work is done.

And if your engine still has the original head gasket and getting up in miles (200,000+??) you might also consider pulling the head to have it rebuilt (valve stem seals, regrind valves, etc) and replace the head gasket, all at the same time the timing chain is off. That is of course a much bigger and more expensive
job if you have to pay someone to do that work ie: $10,000+/-. And that would allow you to replace the timing chain slippers/guides which can wear and even break with age/miles.

Been discussed before but a few people have removed the timing chain cover without removing the head but the lower pans have to come off, so good time to reseal those particularly the upper pan at the rear arch area which is often misdiagnosed as a rear crank seal leak.

Wait for other

Thanks! thanks! Thanks!! I did it one more time!!! a month ago, this Time I cleaned very well inside the pry point and I applied the Toyota FIPG right inside the hole, and it is holding very well for now it is dry !!