Oil leak location

[calokie]

Hello all
So I just replaced my distributor O-Ring -oil pump seal, front crank shaft seal, valve cover.

Is this oil ontop of my housing coming from my oil pump cover or somewhere up top?

Thanks

 

[Kernal]

It may be coming from the timing cover; in that corner there's an O-ring for an oil port and FIPG (form in place gasket), either of which might be the cause of a leak.

Photos below from previous threads:
first photo show the area in question, just above the oil pump:

The next photo shows the backside of the timing chain cover, note the small red arrow. It's pointing to a pry point used when removing the timing cover. Notice the black O-ring just below the pry point.

You can also see that there isn't any FIPG (form in place gasket material) between that O-ring and the pry point.

So one explanation could be either the O-ring gets old/hardened or the FIPG in that area develops a leak allowing oil to then seep out from that pry point which pools just above the oil pump cover.

Another photo (grabbed from a different thread) with a good outside view of the pry slot correlating with the red arrow above:

********
The fix was to clean that area off super well to remove the build-up of grease and grime with a final cleaning of acetone. Then I stuffed FIPG into the pry point and along the mating surfaces in the corner and above the oil pump. Leak/seap stopped. Hardest part was working in that area with everything in place. Next time I did it on another 80 while the alternator
was out and the job was much easier.

^^^^^^

 

[calokie]

Ugg’s…. Thanks Big Kern
Looks like a fall project for me.

 

[jpoole]

@Kernal I've been eyeing a leak on my 80 in that spot for a few years and contemplating adding sealant externally. Your post and photos are a really helpful assessment of the situation. Thanks!

 

[Kernal]

I did this about three years ago on one 80 and it's still holding but I did a super cleaning of that area before applying FIPG. IIRC I first used engine degreaser and the garden hose, then used the tall can of CRC electronics cleaner so as not to damage FIPG or O-rings like some other solvents, papertowels, a pick to clean out the crud and Q-tips and then a final wipe with Acetone. Then stuffed FIPG in the pry slot a fingerfull at a time and along the mating surfaces between the timing cover and block in that area. I applied maybe 3-4 layers of FIPG in that area all in the same day and let it cure ~24 more hours before starting the engine.

 

[cruiserdan]

Was that area cleaned off and this is new? If so how long did it take for that to collect?

 

[calokie]

thanks Kernal
Just re-read the post i didnt see the bottom section about cleaning the pry area and applying FIPG, ill try this out!!!

 

[South Texas 97]

What Cruiserdan said.

Looking at your Alternator, some seepage could be coming from the inner distributer seal. There is a weep hole on the bottom side of the distributor housing. If you pop the distributor cap off you might, or might not see a bunch of oil on the inside at the bottom.

Clean the whole area really well and then monitor what gets wet again. That will at least point you in at least one direction.

 

[Kernal]

The oil could be from above, are there other leaks?

 

[BILT4ME]

Here's another thought.

Fix all your vacuum leaks.

Why?

Because the PCV valve is designed to keep a NEGATIVE pressure (vacuum) on the crankcase.

If there are too many vacuum leaks (valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, vacuum hoses) then the PCV cannot do its job and the crankcase will go to a pressurized condition or at least a neutral pressure condition.

If under pressure, then there is "air" that will be pushing oil OUT at every seal, orifice, hose, and possible leak area.

If you are under a vacuum, then all these areas will suck in air or at the very least keep the oil from seeping. The most important area I see this on is the distributor INTERNAL seal. The distributor cap has a hole in it that allows air to equalize and oil to drip out from inside the cap, yet it has a seal at the base to keep out water from above.

Fix your vacuum leaks and this just may go away.

 

[BILT4ME]

Hello all
So I just replaced my distributor O-Ring -oil pump seal, front crank shaft seal, valve cover.

Is this oil ontop of my housing coming from my oil pump cover or somewhere up top?

Thanks

View attachment 2969604

Could be residual dripping out of that gooey alternator, too.

 

[calokie]

Here's another thought.

Fix all your vacuum leaks.

Why?

Because the PCV valve is designed to keep a NEGATIVE pressure (vacuum) on the crankcase.

If there are too many vacuum leaks (valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, vacuum hoses) then the PCV cannot do its job and the crankcase will go to a pressurized condition or at least a neutral pressure condition.

If under pressure, then there is "air" that will be pushing oil OUT at every seal, orifice, hose, and possible leak area.

If you are under a vacuum, then all these areas will suck in air or at the very least keep the oil from seeping. The most important area I see this on is the distributor INTERNAL seal. The distributor cap has a hole in it that allows air to equalize and oil to drip out from inside the cap, yet it has a seal at the base to keep out water from above.

Fix your vacuum leaks and this just may go away.

thanks, ill work on the vacuum leak issue, I did recently replace the Dist cap seal-distributor O ring, spark plug seals, rocker cover seal, oil pump seal, crank case seal, PVC valve and grommet, crank case hose,

 

[calokie]

Could be residual dripping out of that gooey alternator, too.

man I hope so, the alternator was so mucked up with oil I'm surprised it was even working, i only cleaned the surface with cleaning wipes. I think ill pull it and clean it along with what Kernel mentioned above.

 

[MoJ]

For what it’s worth, a friend replaced his oil pump seal and then noticed it continued to seep a bit afterwards. After a few days it stopped and never leaked again. Just FYI before you go too deep.

 

[Kernal]

Be careful if you clean your alternator; the stator and rotor can/will rust
if you blast it with a degreaser/cleaner and water. With enough rust (doesn't take much) the stator and rotor can get stuck together (there's a very small air gap between those two components).

Example: last year I completely dis-assembled a used oily grime covered alternator for a rebuild due to bad bearings.

I found every surface and all the internal parts completely coated with oil sludge/varnish but the alternator worked fine (voltage) except for the rough bearings. IMO constant large oil leaks may in time damage some of the plastic components and even the varnish coating the stator wires, but harsh cleaning chemicals and water may cause worse damage quicker.

 

[BILT4ME]

man I hope so, the alternator was so mucked up with oil I'm surprised it was even working, i only cleaned the surface with cleaning wipes. I think ill pull it and clean it along with what Kernel mentioned above.

Do not use Brakleen to clean it. Use an electrical parts cleaner such as CRC Lectra-Motor cleaner.

CRC Lectra-Motive Electric Parts Cleaner

CRC Lectra-Motive Electric Parts Cleaner is specifically for energized electrical equipment. Dissolves grease, oil, and dirt without removing parts.

www.crcindustries.com

 

[calokie]

thank you! Ill be picking up some CRC later this week

 

[99fzj105]

How did you go with this leak? I too have a very similar weep/spot leak of oil that accumulates in 1 drop at the lowest point on the engine and have recently had ALL seals replaced

 

[calokie]

How did you go with this leak? I too have a very similar weep/spot leak of oil that accumulates in 1 drop at the lowest point on the engine and have recently had ALL seals replaced

A year late
I have not had a chance to dig into it yet, was planning on doing an alternator upgrade and doing both jobs, just haven't had the time. Did you find your leak yet?

 

[rannon]

I did this about three years ago on one 80 and it's still holding but I did a super cleaning of that area before applying FIPG. IIRC I first used engine degreaser and the garden hose, then used the tall can of CRC electronics cleaner so as not to damage FIPG or O-rings like some other solvents, papertowels, a pick to clean out the crud and Q-tips and then a final wipe with Acetone. Then stuffed FIPG in the pry slot a fingerfull at a time and along the mating surfaces between the timing cover and block in that area. I applied maybe 3-4 layers of FIPG in that area all in the same day and let it cure ~24 more hours before starting the engine.

Thanks for the info! Did you use the red or black FIPG for this?