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I been using this with no issue. Pretty cheap at Walmart. I run it up to 5k miles at a clip
Oil for High Mileage (200,000+) Cruisers?
- Thread starter burp43
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Bump...
I came back from a 1000/+ mile plus trip and i noticed a blot of oil on the driveway. I looked underneath and a fourth of the front plate was covered in oil along with the diff and front oil pan and hoses. I use 8qt's at changes so i went down to the FULL hash mark.
I run M1 Extended Performance 5w-30. This is designed for 1/yr oil change interval. Using it for the past 2-3 years now.
When i did the TB i replaced all seals. I have had a slight leak from crank for a long time and never had any drops on driveway or enough to notice a change in level on the dip stick. I believe this leak is due to the oil thinning and causing a greater leak[?] I checked the manual and i can go to 10w-30. But from what i read that just thicker starting weight and that the viscosity [30] is same as 5w-30, so i dont think this will help.
Not sure i want to go to anything higher then 10w-30 per manual. Thoughts? Maybe a bad seal install? Possibly a scratch on the crank causing the leak?
Also, i stayed between 65-70 the whole time so i was not abusing the engine at all. Currently at 230k on engine.
I came back from a 1000/+ mile plus trip and i noticed a blot of oil on the driveway. I looked underneath and a fourth of the front plate was covered in oil along with the diff and front oil pan and hoses. I use 8qt's at changes so i went down to the FULL hash mark.
I run M1 Extended Performance 5w-30. This is designed for 1/yr oil change interval. Using it for the past 2-3 years now.
When i did the TB i replaced all seals. I have had a slight leak from crank for a long time and never had any drops on driveway or enough to notice a change in level on the dip stick. I believe this leak is due to the oil thinning and causing a greater leak[?] I checked the manual and i can go to 10w-30. But from what i read that just thicker starting weight and that the viscosity [30] is same as 5w-30, so i dont think this will help.
Not sure i want to go to anything higher then 10w-30 per manual. Thoughts? Maybe a bad seal install? Possibly a scratch on the crank causing the leak?
Also, i stayed between 65-70 the whole time so i was not abusing the engine at all. Currently at 230k on engine.
Generally I like to use the thinnest winter weight possible to minimize engine wear on startup, but if you're in a warm climate and fighting a troublesome leak, changing up to 10W30 might be worth a shot.
It's easy to screw up the seal install so that's definitely a possibility. I changed out my front pinion seal recently and my first attempt left me with a worse leak than when I started. Either the install or the shaft were to blame. I tried a second attempt with a new seal AND a new shaft and that solved it perfectly. Since changing out the shaft in your case isn't really an option, I'd consider another seal install attempt if the oil change doesn't help.
Owned 01 LC since 160k (Dec 2015). About to roll 200k really soon, living in North Texas, DFW (extreme lows 25f and highs 100+f)...
I've been using Royal Purple full synth since purchase. I don't change based on mileage because my mileage isn't high, rather I do it now depending on the season. We drive 8-10kPer year. October to March is the standard 5w30, April to September I use 10w30. I don't use the high mileage stuff ever.
There is only the slightest of oil film at the back of the valve covers, and even that was present when we purchased this LC. I plan on replacing those related seals soon. I did the timing belt recently myself which included doing the crank and cam front main seals. All of them were dry as a bone.
I've been using Royal Purple full synth since purchase. I don't change based on mileage because my mileage isn't high, rather I do it now depending on the season. We drive 8-10kPer year. October to March is the standard 5w30, April to September I use 10w30. I don't use the high mileage stuff ever.
There is only the slightest of oil film at the back of the valve covers, and even that was present when we purchased this LC. I plan on replacing those related seals soon. I did the timing belt recently myself which included doing the crank and cam front main seals. All of them were dry as a bone.
1999 LX 470 with bought 2001 with 26,000 miles and currently has 210,000 miles... Always used Mobil 1 5W30 in winters (KY) and 10W40 in summer and the dang thing doesn't use any oil at all, not even a drop. Oil Change every 5000 miles with Toyota filter and always used Premium gas.
It's not about the quality of oil as much as the frequency of oil change that counts
It's not about the quality of oil as much as the frequency of oil change that counts
Yeah.... I think this is a seal issue. I still have 50k miles before next timing belt. Just going to deal with it until then. This was the first time it got this bad. Gonna clean with degreaser and keep an eye on it.
Something to rememeber when thinking about changing viscosity is:
-Dino oils the "5" in 5w-30 is the base oil viscosity and the 30 is the upper heat range based on it's additives
-Synthetic oil 5w-30 the base oil is a 30 weight and some additives(less needed) for cold temps(5w)
-a synthetic oil of equal viscosity range as dino will flow better in cold
- If using synthetic oil, changing from 5w-30 to 10w-30 will not get you a thicker base oil(it will with dino oil)
- WIthin reason, oil flow is more important than oil pressure
(btw check out bobistheoilguy.com ...not the forums, but the part called something like oil school or college ...explains a lot, busts many myths....bit of a long read but very informative)
-Dino oils the "5" in 5w-30 is the base oil viscosity and the 30 is the upper heat range based on it's additives
-Synthetic oil 5w-30 the base oil is a 30 weight and some additives(less needed) for cold temps(5w)
-a synthetic oil of equal viscosity range as dino will flow better in cold
- If using synthetic oil, changing from 5w-30 to 10w-30 will not get you a thicker base oil(it will with dino oil)
- WIthin reason, oil flow is more important than oil pressure
(btw check out bobistheoilguy.com ...not the forums, but the part called something like oil school or college ...explains a lot, busts many myths....bit of a long read but very informative)
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Mobil1 high mileage extended performance oil with the larger m201 extended performance filter. 20k change intervals. Good stuff!
Mobil1 high mileage extended performance oil with the larger m201 extended performance filter but 10k intervals.
I just want to add, if you have an oil leak on a vehicle with over ......... 50,000 miles, it's not a bad idea to change your pcv valve. I've seen people change 1 valve cover gasket, only to have the opposite valve cover gasket suddenly start leaking not long thereafter, or a crank seal. "Back in the old days", they used to recommend changing your pcv valve when you change your plugs, and somewhere along the way, people just stopped changing their pcv valves. You might also need to change the pcv valve grommet as they tend to get brittle and break when they're messed with. The PCV valve is for "positive crankcase ventilation", it basically allows your engine to burp when pressure builds up.
I have been running 5w30 Mobil 1 High Mileage and Mobil oil filter for 120,000 miles now.
My truck has 207,000 original miles on it and all is perfect with the most recent oil change I did yesterday.
I change oil at 10,000 mile intervals, as i primarily do highway driving, but not always easy on the engine, as I drive through mountainous country around Denver for work quite a bit.
My truck doesn't use or leak a single drop. My dipstick is full at 10,000 miles of use, and there is little to no fuel contamination of the oil, as it still looks and feels good even at 10,000 miles, being only a dark brown, but never black color.
I was just admiring my truck when I was doing the oil change, as it is 100% rust free underneath and on top, and has been driven in Colorado now for 5 years.
My truck has 207,000 original miles on it and all is perfect with the most recent oil change I did yesterday.
I change oil at 10,000 mile intervals, as i primarily do highway driving, but not always easy on the engine, as I drive through mountainous country around Denver for work quite a bit.
My truck doesn't use or leak a single drop. My dipstick is full at 10,000 miles of use, and there is little to no fuel contamination of the oil, as it still looks and feels good even at 10,000 miles, being only a dark brown, but never black color.
I was just admiring my truck when I was doing the oil change, as it is 100% rust free underneath and on top, and has been driven in Colorado now for 5 years.