Oil for High Mileage (200,000+) Cruisers?

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burp43

burp43

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Dec 30, 2008
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Florence, SC
My 100 has 210,000 miles on it and I have no idea what has been used in the past in it. My only clue is a Shell Rotella sticker indicating it's almost due for a change, and it doesn't even show the weight. I'd like to use Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic, but wonder if it may cause problems at this late stage. Anyone else with high miles have any advice?
 
These engines are pretty tolerant in terms of oil. My car's been run on normal conventional Valvolene 5W30 for the past 180,000 or so miles, and I've just switched it M1 synthetic. No problems to note so far. I changed it about 225,000 miles, btw, so you should be fine. Drop it in there and enjoy the extra benefits of full synthetic oil.
 
I dont have an answer for you, but am eager to hear what the board says. i am just about to pour M1 into my new 01 with 120k miles.

FWIW, i would recommend a minimum of a filter change after a few hundred or a thousand miles (not the oil, just filter). AFAIK the M1 will be like a detergent in there, scrubbing out all the sludge from previous oils. the 22RE was like a sludge machine, but i dont know how the 2UZ engines are.

one last thought from me, i am also going to install a fumoto drain valve. i examined the oil drain plug and it appears to be pretty well protected by a cross member. the valve will only protrude about half way down the width of the xmember, so should be protected well for my application. i used these valves on other yotas, and the drain is about as easy and clean as it gets, plus makes sample collection easy for used oil analysis :banana:
 
The default oil at all times for all reasons is Chevron Delo 15w-40. It's cheap, it's excellent, you can buy it at Costco.
 
bkgee said:
one last thought from me, i am also going to install a fumoto drain valve. i examined the oil drain plug and it appears to be pretty well protected by a cross member. the valve will only protrude about half way down the width of the xmember, so should be protected well for my application. i used these valves on other yotas, and the drain is about as easy and clean as it gets, plus makes sample collection easy for used oil analysis :banana:
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You have a cross member under your drain plug? That's not stock. Should be a clear shot with a rachet, short extension and 14mm socket.
 
Someone at work swears that the old worn seals will leak if I use synthetic in it. I've read about the Mobil High Mileage oil that is supposed to contain conditioners for seals, but I can't seem to find any around here. Anyway, I'm just going to use the regular M1 5W30 and let it ride. When I do the timing belt/water pump I'll probably replace the cam and crank seals too (are these the seals in quetion?).
 
I converted my 100 with 192K when I bought it to M1 10-30 and have had no issues, no leaks. I'd go for it without second thought.
 
I ran Mobil1 in my 80s, epoxied the garage floor to make the oil puddles easier to clean up. I switched both to Shell Rotella T synthetic and they stopped leaking. I'm running the same in all my cars, no leaks.
 
Mobile 1 in 5w-30 will be perfect for the engine. I doubt you have any deposits to speak of since the UZ runs so clean. Keep in mind that the UZ was designed for a 5w-30 oil from the ground up.

Worries about old seals and synthetics are 20 years (or more) out of date. All oils have seal conditioners and even a cheap dino will have effective detergents that break down deposits.

Anyone have an oil leak yet in the 100 ?
 
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Reviving an old thread:

My new-to-me 99 Land Cruiser has 192,000 miles on it. Unfortunately, I have no meaningful records on what maintenance has been performed on it. One thing I DO know is that it smokes on startup if it sits for a week or so. Since I'm about to baseline the fluids, I'm considering changing to a high-quality oil for my own peace of mind.

I'm considering changing to either Mobil 1 high-mileage formula or Rotella synthetic. Although I use M1 exclusively in all of my other vehicles, I've heard many people say that Rotella synthetic is less likely to leak than M1 on old seals. That being said, I've also been advised that the 2UZ runs very tight tolerances, and that even with 192K miles, I might be wise not to increase the viscosity to Rotella's 5W-40 weight.

Anyone have any opinions on these two questions?
 
I'm running M1 AFE 0w-30 and the motor seems to love it at 140K. No leaks, starts easy even on very cold mornings/nights. Like you, I have no idea what was run in it previously.

I'd stick to a 30w oil, personally.
 
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old seals will probably benefit from synthetic oil. the old lore about engines springing leaks was more about the synthetic scrubbing out sludge, which had previously been stopping up an otherwise old leaky seal. i dont think the 2UZ has a notorious sludge problem (like 22RE), so there should be no worries. let us know!
 
Switched my 01 to M1 5W 30 at 190k and no regrets.
 
dnp said:
I'm considering changing to either Mobil 1 high-mileage formula or Rotella synthetic. Although I use M1 exclusively in all of my other vehicles,
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Mobile 1 High Mileage sounds like a good choice. I would stick with a 30 weight.

Watch for oil consumption by checking every fuel stop until you know what it is doing.
 
The only reason I would consider going up in weight is to boost oil pressure on a worn engine to stretch the life a few extra yards. The oil pressure gauge on the 100 isn't super accurate and reads low when new so this probably isn't a good guide.

Have you done a compression test to see how your rings are? By 'baseline fluids' I'm assuming you mean to include an oil analysis by someone like Blackstone? That will tell you a lot about what's wearing, if there's fuel in the oil, coolant in the oil, etc. I'd probably try to correctly diagnose the problem first.
 
I second the M1 High Mileage 5w-30. It seems to be the best value oil out on the market and easily purchased at almost any wally world.
This oil cleans, provides better heat shearing, and conditions seals. You get the Mobil 1 oil with bonus features.

I have run it for ~15k miles at temp ranges 10F - 110F and it seems to hold up really well. I still change it out at every 7500 miles, just because oil changes are inexpensive.

btw- I am very interested in seeing mpg results from running a 5w-40 or 0w-40 in the 2UZ. My next favorite oil is M1 0w-40. It is probably the best all around motor oil out on the market
 
NMuzj100 said:
Mobile 1 High Mileage sounds like a good choice. I would stick with a 30 weight.

Watch for oil consumption by checking every fuel stop until you know what it is doing.
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Would your opinion be to use 5W-30 M1 HM or 10W-30 HM? I know Mobil 1 is known to run on the "thin" side of represented weights, so I'm wondering if I might be better off running the 10W-30. Opinions?
 
10w oils are now obsolete IMHO. There is no reason to pick a 10w over 5w oil.

5w gives a much better startup protection in all conditions than a 10w.

If you are at sub zero temps, a 0w might be a better choice.
 
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