Oil change then cold start rattle 3 days in a row.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

bloc

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 19, 2008
Threads
142
Messages
15,014
Location
Central Texas
30k miles with my 2013 cruiser and loving every minute. I've done all maintenance, and had no issues so far.

Just did an oil change using TRD filter and toyota 0w-20 oil.. obvious couple seconds of no oil pressure on first start, then it built pressure, I drove around, everything behaved as normal.

Next morning though, significant rattle on cold start for a second or two. And has done so every morning since (three now).

I know our filters don't have an anti-drainback valve in them.. so I assume it's in the filter housing somewhere. But my question is what about an otherwise successful oil change could cause this? The oil even came out of a case I've used before.

Thoughts? I'm reluctant to just let it keep making that noise.. was hoping it would be a one-time thing. Then again I don't exactly want to go digging for the drainback valve (if there is one) to check operation..
 
People actually pay for "Toyota" branded oil?
 
All about that mobile 1
 
If the oil level is fine then I might just swap in a new filter, top off and observe. It is very light oil and I when used it recently and it was surprisingly "thin." You might notice a touch more of the mechanical sounds. I would also watch temperature/pressure readings. Is this a recent switch to 0-20?
 
Bad filter?
 
I haven't listened through the fender but this seems like what I have going on
(not my vehicle, to be clear)


Timing chain slap or rod knock? Once this is over it sounds perfect.

All about that mobile 1

Toyota synthetic is produced by Mobil, IIRC.

Yup. 1 Case (12 quarts) for $87.

$78 where I get it. But yeah, it's cost effective.

If the oil level is fine then I might just swap in a new filter, top off and observe. It is very light oil and I when used it recently and it was surprisingly "thin." You might notice a touch more of the mechanical sounds. I would also watch temperature/pressure readings. Is this a recent switch to 0-20?

Not a recent switch, truck probably had Toyota 0w-20 in it when I bought it, as that's what dealers use. I've been putting it in every 5k miles since I got it. Actually I had a single fill of Mobil1 on a roadtrip. But no issues before this with the same oil. In fact this should be thicker than the used/sheared toyota 0w-20 that I dumped.

Temp/pressure seems to act the same as before.

Bad filter?

Possible.. but no issues with oil pressure other than the rattle at start. To me this seems like the oil in the lubrication system is draining to the pan over night.. exactly what a drainback valve in a traditional cartridge oil filter is designed to prevent. I spent some time looking at parts diagrams and don't even think there is a drainback valve in our oiling system.

I might try to change the filter and see if the rattle goes away. Plus do some digging on the tundra boards..
 
You still running the factory underbody plates? Could you have a loose bolt and its banging around on initial startup? Seems too easy, but....

Id also change the filter to a standard Toyota filter - Keep the Toyota 0W-20 in and you are correct that its rebranded Mobile 1.

Hope it a simple easy fix...

Best,

John
 
Keep the Toyota 0W-20 in and you are correct that its rebranded Mobile 1.

This is often repeated here on the board, but is not correct. They are similar, but not the same oil. The additive package is notably different. The Toyota oil is good, but there is much better value in other brands like Mobil 1. If you are changing every 5k just go with whatever high quality (name brand) 0w-20 is on sale.
 
This is often repeated here on the board, but is not correct. They are similar, but not the same oil. The additive package is notably different. The Toyota oil is good, but there is much better value in other brands like Mobil 1. If you are changing every 5k just go with whatever high quality (name brand) 0w-20 is on sale.
Better value, or better additive package in your opinion?
 
For those keeping track it didn’t rattle today after ~10hrs sitting overnight. Hoping that trend continues.
 
Better value, or better additive package in your opinion?

I believe it is only slightly better. Here are some points that come up often when comparing TGMO vs Mobil 1. Also Toyota's stamp of approval adds some value as well.

  1. Toyota makes sure that TGMO has the best possible additive package for Toyota engines, including a generous amount of antiwear additives ZDDP (P) and moly (Mo), and no large amounts of magnesium (Mg), which is potentially corrosive and increases wear.
  2. From the viscosity index, TGMO seems to have more Group IV (PAO) in it than Mobil 1, therefore possibly a "more synthetic" oil than Mobil 1 (TGMO having less Group III dino in the mix). This means lower NOACK, which implies less deposits, more high-temperature stability, and less oil consumption. Although, I should say that this last point is something that is inferred and there is no direct information on this.
For me the difference was not worth it. With the ammount of rebates and sales on "off the shelf" oil (TGMO $6.50/qt vs. $5/qt or less) and my short OCI (5k) any high quality 0w-20 will be fine.
 
For me convenience plays a small part. I’m going to the toyota will-call counter to get filters and other parts anyway.. adding Toyota 0-20 to the order and not having to keep an eye on sales or anything is worth the small additional money per oil change.

As it is I’m gathering that 5k changes are probably overkill given my lack of towing..
 
Jzelnick is correct on the additive package on TGMO. There are a lot of voa on bob is the oil guy forum.

here is the part number for tgmo. The price below is the lowest I have found in my area. It is pick up at the counter.
Description:0W20-SINGLE QUART (W
Part Number: 002790WQTE01
Quantity:8
Price:$5.05
 
This is often repeated here on the board, but is not correct. They are similar, but not the same oil. The additive package is notably different. The Toyota oil is good, but there is much better value in other brands like Mobil 1. If you are changing every 5k just go with whatever high quality (name brand) 0w-20 is on sale.



The real benefits are in the newer Euro spec oils and the 0w-30. I used to not be a believer but I was taught the error of my ways by a guy in the oil industry. Specs testing and facts have changed me.
 
Lat us address the OP. I would pull the filter and swap it out. Make sure the spring and internal parts are installed correctly and swap out the filter. Then see what happens. It should be quiet on start. Random thing to check. Open a quart of oil and make sure it at least looks like oil. I am sure in mass production anything can happen. Also pull the dipstick and verify it looks nice and new.
 
I assume you’ve checked already, but since I didn’t see a level check noted above...
-Another possibility based on a number of accounts online might be too much oil.

I do not claim to fully understand this possibility, but I was curious and did some googling, and this has been the culprit for quite a few folks in various vehicles.
 
Last edited:
My Lexus dealer uses Kendall GT 0w20 synthetic it’s very high in titanium all my oil analysis that I get back from Blackstone lab indicators doing a great job I’ve had about three or four done. These engines are really easy on The oil so you could probably burn about anything and It would be great especially if you changed every 5000 miles
 
24hrs sitting and no rattle today. Safe to say the concern is over. As for why? Maybe the different viscosity (thicker) fresh oil did something different with the cam chain tensioners?

Or lifters? Are these solid bucket like toyotas were for so long?

Oh and level was spot on with the oil warmed up.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom