Oil by crankshaft pulley (1 Viewer)

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1994LCNM said:
Change relay and fuse too?
Click to expand...
Only if they don't work.

You know that the fuel pump doesn't run unless the engine is cranking, right?
 
1994LCNM said:
Drain and replace all fluids?
Click to expand...
Yes, I would drain and replace all fluids.

That said, I would do MINIMAL things until I properly diagnosed why it's not running.

So, You have not cranked this at all the try to start it?

You have removed and replaced the starter, alternator, water pump, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor and you still have not tried starting it?

Change the engine oil, drain the gas and put in about 2 gallons of non-ethanol 91 octane fuel, and try to start it.
Check the other fluids to make sure they are in there and close to the proper level.


The fuel pump on these trucks rarely "go out". most generally, it is a mis-diagnosis or a "while I'm In there" or I don't want to risk being stranded in BFE so I'm gonna change it scenario.

The 94's (depending on month of build) typically may have a section of relay wiring may have joggled loose under the fuse box under the hood where the FPR resides.


I stick with my assessment of all old vehicles that are being brought back around:
Make it run
Make it stop
Make it safe
Make it reliable
Make it pretty


This is YOUR list.

For me, I always do mechanicals first, but part of that is because that's what I'm good at. I suck at body and paint and, since I have to pay someone else to do it, it hits the low end until it becomes a safety issue. Then it moves way up the list.

Engine operation to make it reliable and something you can count on.
Brakes to make it safe, reliable so you don't kill you, your family, or others.
Drive line, again for reliability
Small electrical such as windows, door locks, latches
Body and paint

This list is in this order for a reason.
What happens if you throw all this time and money at this truck, only to find out it has a hole in a piston?
You don't REALLY know that the whole issue is the fuel pump.
That's what someone told you.

Many on here have seen people scrap these because the "fuel pump" was out. Turns out it was actually a relay, the MAF, the NSS or something similar.

Right now, I would lay MY money on two things:
1) MAF sensor on the intake tube has had the two screws removed and someone yanked on the wiring harness, breaking the internals to the MAF. If this is broken, the truck will NOT start.
2) A fusible link has broken


Once you get stuff back together and wiring harness plugs reattached and you think it's ready to start, with a good battery, turn the key to the "RUN" position. Do you have a Check Engine Light (CEL) with the key in that position, NOT running?
If not, then you either have a burned out bulb or the computer is not in a ready state to start. That means something is disconnected and not allowing the computer to get a read on it.

I would stop throwing money at it until it is physically running. It may not run well, but at least if it's running, then you know what is NOT the problem.

Make it run, drive it a while to make your list of things to do to it.
 
BILT4ME said:
Yes, I would drain and replace all fluids.

That said, I would do MINIMAL things until I properly diagnosed why it's not running.

So, You have not cranked this at all the try to start it?

You have removed and replaced the starter, alternator, water pump, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor and you still have not tried starting it?

Change the engine oil, drain the gas and put in about 2 gallons of non-ethanol 91 octane fuel, and try to start it.
Check the other fluids to make sure they are in there and close to the proper level.


The fuel pump on these trucks rarely "go out". most generally, it is a mis-diagnosis or a "while I'm In there" or I don't want to risk being stranded in BFE so I'm gonna change it scenario.

The 94's (depending on month of build) typically may have a section of relay wiring may have joggled loose under the fuse box under the hood where the FPR resides.


I stick with my assessment of all old vehicles that are being brought back around:
Make it run
Make it stop
Make it safe
Make it reliable
Make it pretty


This is YOUR list.

For me, I always do mechanicals first, but part of that is because that's what I'm good at. I suck at body and paint and, since I have to pay someone else to do it, it hits the low end until it becomes a safety issue. Then it moves way up the list.

Engine operation to make it reliable and something you can count on.
Brakes to make it safe, reliable so you don't kill you, your family, or others.
Drive line, again for reliability
Small electrical such as windows, door locks, latches
Body and paint

This list is in this order for a reason.
What happens if you throw all this time and money at this truck, only to find out it has a hole in a piston?
You don't REALLY know that the whole issue is the fuel pump.
That's what someone told you.

Many on here have seen people scrap these because the "fuel pump" was out. Turns out it was actually a relay, the MAF, the NSS or something similar.

Right now, I would lay MY money on two things:
1) MAF sensor on the intake tube has had the two screws removed and someone yanked on the wiring harness, breaking the internals to the MAF. If this is broken, the truck will NOT start.
2) A fusible link has broken


Once you get stuff back together and wiring harness plugs reattached and you think it's ready to start, with a good battery, turn the key to the "RUN" position. Do you have a Check Engine Light (CEL) with the key in that position, NOT running?
If not, then you either have a burned out bulb or the computer is not in a ready state to start. That means something is disconnected and not allowing the computer to get a read on it.

I would stop throwing money at it until it is physically running. It may not run well, but at least if it's running, then you know what is NOT the problem.

Make it run, drive it a while to make your list of things to do to it.
Click to expand...
We haven't tried starting it yet, and while we had the opportunity, we decided to replace old parts even if they were working. So we have a baseline now, and we are waiting for all the gaskets and belts. Should be here this Friday. Once we get done with the engine and fuel pump, the next step we have planned: brake rebuild and tires. Also shocks and springs. Then all rubber, and weather parts on the outside with a new flat gun metal Grey paint job.
 
BILT4ME, your absolutely right. Who knows what it could really be. But this has turned into a very interesting project truck lol.
 
Before it stopped running, it was serviced at Toyota in 2015/2016. Dealership papers said it was running just fine. I think it was an easy fix, but he never fixed it, just got another truck.

Maybe we will buy another MAF. The entire exhaust system is rusted out also.
 
Last edited:
1994LCNM said:
Before it stopped running, it was serviced at Toyota in 2015/2016. Dealership papers said it was running just fine. I think it was an easy fix, but he never fixed it, just got another truck.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, sitting unused is REALLY hard on things.

All the rubber parts dry out, the piston rings stick, valves stick, valve seals get brittle and crack, then it burns oil.

Don't be surprised that once you fire this up and get it going that it starts burning LOTS of oil (rings and valve seals), but there is no way in hell I would just tear it apart first as a "preventive maintenance" without hearing it run.

As it is, you have actually introduced so many NEW possibilities of why it WON'T run, as opposed to having "fixed" a bunch of things.

I'm referring to the "Troubleshooting Tree" and how you change one thing at a time until you find the actual root cause.
In this case, you have changed MANY, without cause, just to do PM.

I hope this proves out well for you, I really do, but I think in the long run, you will be spending WAY more than you would have otherwise.
These trucks are NOT like the Chevys, Fords, Studebakers, and Dodges that I have worked on. With the others, you replace stuff because you know it needs it because it has reached a certain age or mileage, because that's how it always has been.
With these, they are designed for longevity, and ALL parts are robust, so only replace what's necessary.

Assuming this truck has factory exhaust on it, it is 409 SS. This may or may not be in good shape, but having sat for so long with the acids in the exhaust and going through dew point many times, do not be surprised if the exhaust falls off within 3 months of regular driving.
 
BILT4ME said:
Unfortunately, sitting unused is REALLY hard on things.

All the rubber parts dry out, the piston rings stick, valves stick, valve seals get brittle and crack, then it burns oil.

Don't be surprised that once you fire this up and get it going that it starts burning LOTS of oil (rings and valve seals), but there is no way in hell I would just tear it apart first as a "preventive maintenance" without hearing it run.

As it is, you have actually introduced so many NEW possibilities of why it WON'T run, as opposed to having "fixed" a bunch of things.

I'm referring to the "Troubleshooting Tree" and how you change one thing at a time until you find the actual root cause.
In this case, you have changed MANY, without cause, just to do PM.

I hope this proves out well for you, I really do, but I think in the long run, you will be spending WAY more than you would have otherwise.
These trucks are NOT like the Chevys, Fords, Studebakers, and Dodges that I have worked on. With the others, you replace stuff because you know it needs it because it has reached a certain age or mileage, because that's how it always has been.
With these, they are designed for longevity, and ALL parts are robust, so only replace what's necessary.

Assuming this truck has factory exhaust on it, it is 409 SS. This may or may not be in good shape, but having sat for so long with the acids in the exhaust and going through dew point many times, do not be surprised if the exhaust falls off within 3 months of regular driving.
Click to expand...
Ok well, first goal now is to troubleshoot it.
 
1994LCNM said:
So I got the 30mm on the crank, and the engine isn't sized, it rotates. I'll connect the starter and then put a new battery in it. But even when I get the crank off, how do you get it back on because it still rotates
Click to expand...
I just did mine last weekend. Removed the inspection plate from the front of the trans at the bottom, stuck a 14mm deep impact socket on the flywheel bolt and that held it in place just fine.
 
b16 said:
I just did mine last weekend. Removed the inspection plate from the front of the trans at the bottom, stuck a 14mm deep impact socket on the flywheel bolt and that held it in place just fine.
Click to expand...
Just don't forget to remove it before start-up........
 
Update: picked up more parts yesterday. Might get started today. Need battery and fuel pump still.

20210612_085104.jpg
 
1994LCNM said:
Update: picked up more parts yesterday. Might get started today. Need battery and fuel pump still.

View attachment 2701638
Click to expand...
I replaced my high pressure fuel line while I was in there, assuming you're dropping the tank. If not dropping the tank, never mind
 
Ok here's the progress today. Crank and pump off. Will replace gaskets later. 106 degrees in the garage.

20210612_135147.jpg


20210612_140710.jpg


20210612_140717.jpg


20210612_140752.jpg


20210612_152853.jpg
 
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