Oil by crankshaft pulley (1 Viewer)

[1994LCNM]

Hi all,

I have lots of caked on oil around the front of the engine, crankshaft pulley and by the water pump. The oil is just in the front and doesn't run all around the head. I added some pics.

So the question is: the part the oil is coming from, is that a part I can take off and clean and put a new gasket on witthout taking off that crank pulley? Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[1994LCNM]

Well from what I read I might as well pull the engine and start a rebuild

 

[cahill]

You could try replacing the dizzy O ring and see if that fixes it, but the crank shaft seal isn't all that hard to do. If you time it with a radiator replacement it makes things easier.

 

[cahill]

Actually....yeah an engine rebuild.

 

[1994LCNM]

Actually....yeah an engine rebuild.

Think so?

 

[spyduh]

Crank seal.

Lol @ rebuild

 

[1994LCNM]

How much oil does it eat with that oil leak?

 

[BILT4ME]

The top oil leaks are:
Distributor O-Ring
Valve cover gasket
Spark plug tube seals
Oil pump cover (behind the Harmonic balancer and you should do the front main seal while you are in there)
Power Steering reservoir
Power steering hoses
Transmission cooler hoses

 

[Kernal]

Ditto all the above.

While the water pump is out now's the time to replace the oil pump cover gasket and front crank seal. The crank pulley has to come off for both, no way around it.

How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

I recently noticed that I had an oil leak coming from the front of my motor. After cleaning up the front of the motor to determine where the leak was coming from it was easy to see that it was coming from where the oil pump cover mated to the timing chain cover. I crawled under the truck once...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[spyduh]

80 Series 1FZ Oil Pump Leak Kit

80 Series 1FZ Oil Pump Leak Kit (OLK-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

 

[zapatius]

Super easy to replace - just make sure you have a big enough torque wrench to get it back on.

Having done this recently, do the oil pump seal, water pump and belts at the same time. Just makes sense.

And, since you've got all that stuff off, do the head gasket (kidding).

 

[1994LCNM]

Lol zap, I thought about it. Got started today and cleaned it to get it ready. I'll clean the engine when I get it up and running

 

[woodsman 44]

the leak being high up above your crank pulley leads me to believe its your valve cover gasket and distributor O ring...change and inspect.

Then look to see if oil pump cover and crank seal are leaking...

 

[1994LCNM]

Well the rest of the valve cover looks ok? I think it's the DO ring?

 

[woodsman 44]

Well the rest of the valve cover looks ok? I think it's the DO ring?

could be...put a new O ring on it and go from there..

 

[1994LCNM]

It looks like I have to use a light to ensure the timing on it after it's changed out?

 

[BILT4ME]

It looks like I have to use a light to ensure the timing on it after it's changed out?

Don't have to if you go about it the right way. You can have the dizzy O-ring done in about 1 hour tops and that includes removing the battery tray.

If you have no idea what you're doing, then probably not.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Rotate the engine to TDC (cylinder 1 on compression stroke and flywheel notch at the 0 mark. Pop of the dizzy cap and take a photo of where the rotor is pointing in relation to the distributor. The contact end of the rotor is probably pointing to 11 ish oclock. When you put it back in align the marks on the dizzy housing and shaft and slide the freshly lubricated o ring and shaft in nice and slow. Compare to photo and tighten the bolt. No light required...

 

[BILT4ME]

Rotate the engine to TDC (cylinder 1 on compression stroke and flywheel notch at the 0 mark. Pop of the dizzy cap and take a photo of where the rotor is pointing in relation to the distributor. The contact end of the rotor is probably pointing to 11 ish oclock. When you put it back in align the marks on the dizzy housing and shaft and slide the freshly lubricated o ring and shaft in nice and slow. Compare to photo and tighten the bolt. No light required...

You need to mark the HEAD where the distributor slot is located so it's in the same relative place when you reinsert and rotate to match. Must use a scratch awl, not a magic marker, as that will wash off.

 

[1994LCNM]

Ok, I've worked on a lot of vehicles but never seen a distributor like this one.