greAT!! stuff man you got some serious skills
Offroad popup camper build
- Thread starter Atoyot1031
- Start date
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LOVING THE DETAILS OF YOUR BUILD.
Very well Done!!!!
I noticed your bare shower floor in the pictures and it reminded me of something. Thought I'd share it with you.
Here's a tip I did some years ago for my shower floor on my Expo Truck Rig I built in the 90's.
I built a wooden pallet type floor for the bottom of my shower. It was nothing more than 1" X 3" fir wood slats bolted together with stainless bolts. The under bracing fit between the roof rack cross bracing so it didn't take up any more space than necessary.
I used the inside dimension of my roof rack for the floor size. The little pallet got stained and sealed for use in wet conditions. When not in use it laid flat inside the roof rack floor and made a nice storage floor for the roof rack. This pallet meant that we didn't have to stand in dirt to take a shower and since it was slightly larger than my shower I could leave my shoes outside the shower and slip them on after I dried off and got my shorts on. Kept my feet clean and out of the mud we made when showering. It made for a happy girlfriend.
I'll throw this idea out for others to use if they want.
As for the actual shower!
My shower was nothing more than a kids plastic hoola hoop with overlapping shower curtains clipped to it with shower curtain rings. With the overlapping curtains it meant no worry about door zippers. The hoola hoop hung suspended off the side of the truck from two pieces of tubing that slid inside and stored inside the hollow side cross braces of my roof rack.
I used boat drain plugs in the roof rack braces to keep the tubes from sliding out when driving and not in use. The shower poles were cut long enough that I could reach them with my finger and slide them out to hang the hoola hoop shower on. And they made a nice place to hand a dry bag and towel. Back then I used some of those solar shower bags on the roof rack for hot water.
That system worked well and I am planning on incorporating the same thing on my upcoming trailer build. Only I will use one of those propane power heaters like you did on this build. Means not having to wait for the sun to heat up the water. A good thing if you knew my wife. Yea, I married her! She likes her comfort.
Hope this give some of ya'll some ideas. THe Commercial built showers are nice for those who can afford them. But I lose sleep thinking of how to make stuff rather than buy it.
Very well Done!!!!
I noticed your bare shower floor in the pictures and it reminded me of something. Thought I'd share it with you.
Here's a tip I did some years ago for my shower floor on my Expo Truck Rig I built in the 90's.
I built a wooden pallet type floor for the bottom of my shower. It was nothing more than 1" X 3" fir wood slats bolted together with stainless bolts. The under bracing fit between the roof rack cross bracing so it didn't take up any more space than necessary.
I used the inside dimension of my roof rack for the floor size. The little pallet got stained and sealed for use in wet conditions. When not in use it laid flat inside the roof rack floor and made a nice storage floor for the roof rack. This pallet meant that we didn't have to stand in dirt to take a shower and since it was slightly larger than my shower I could leave my shoes outside the shower and slip them on after I dried off and got my shorts on. Kept my feet clean and out of the mud we made when showering. It made for a happy girlfriend.
I'll throw this idea out for others to use if they want.
As for the actual shower!
My shower was nothing more than a kids plastic hoola hoop with overlapping shower curtains clipped to it with shower curtain rings. With the overlapping curtains it meant no worry about door zippers. The hoola hoop hung suspended off the side of the truck from two pieces of tubing that slid inside and stored inside the hollow side cross braces of my roof rack.
I used boat drain plugs in the roof rack braces to keep the tubes from sliding out when driving and not in use. The shower poles were cut long enough that I could reach them with my finger and slide them out to hang the hoola hoop shower on. And they made a nice place to hand a dry bag and towel. Back then I used some of those solar shower bags on the roof rack for hot water.
That system worked well and I am planning on incorporating the same thing on my upcoming trailer build. Only I will use one of those propane power heaters like you did on this build. Means not having to wait for the sun to heat up the water. A good thing if you knew my wife. Yea, I married her! She likes her comfort.
Hope this give some of ya'll some ideas. THe Commercial built showers are nice for those who can afford them. But I lose sleep thinking of how to make stuff rather than buy it.
- Thread starter
- #184
Some great ideas there. My shower actually has a floor. It's just a medium weight piece of plastic tarp the size of the floor that is help in place with velcro. That way it's easy to pull out, clean and dry before stowing.
FYI, I love the instant hot water! It was one of those things when I built the camper that I thought I didn't need, but now I think is one of the greatest features. The only downside is with freezing temperatures, I have to disconnect and put push the lines back inside the camper for the night, or risk blowing the lines and the ehat exchanger.
I can't wait to try some winter desert camping in Utah this year. I luv skiing, but camping in Jan/Feb will help the wife with her cabin fever...
FYI, I love the instant hot water! It was one of those things when I built the camper that I thought I didn't need, but now I think is one of the greatest features. The only downside is with freezing temperatures, I have to disconnect and put push the lines back inside the camper for the night, or risk blowing the lines and the ehat exchanger.
I can't wait to try some winter desert camping in Utah this year. I luv skiing, but camping in Jan/Feb will help the wife with her cabin fever...
- Thread starter
- #185
I need a little help here.
I was just given this nice, little 3-way refrigerator.
My idea for it is to be able to utilize a 3 power sources. I can pre-chill it before a trip on 120VAC and load it up in the house. Then when we hit the rouad, I can run in on 12VDC in the back of the Cruiser and secure it to the slideout on my AO drawers. Finally, when we get to camp, I can have a quick disonnect for the LP like my instant water heater for the camper.
As for location in the camper, my thought is to have a quick mount to hang it outside the door on the lower hardwall of the popup. The inside is small, and doesn't need anymore appliances. This would also alleviate any concerns of gas leak or CO associated with another gas appliance.
Here's where I need help. I need a way/hardware to quickly and securely attach and detach it from the outside wall of the camper. I'm all ears...
Nick
I was just given this nice, little 3-way refrigerator.
My idea for it is to be able to utilize a 3 power sources. I can pre-chill it before a trip on 120VAC and load it up in the house. Then when we hit the rouad, I can run in on 12VDC in the back of the Cruiser and secure it to the slideout on my AO drawers. Finally, when we get to camp, I can have a quick disonnect for the LP like my instant water heater for the camper.
As for location in the camper, my thought is to have a quick mount to hang it outside the door on the lower hardwall of the popup. The inside is small, and doesn't need anymore appliances. This would also alleviate any concerns of gas leak or CO associated with another gas appliance.
Here's where I need help. I need a way/hardware to quickly and securely attach and detach it from the outside wall of the camper. I'm all ears...
Nick
Bogo
FOOF
Put two sturdy horizontal rails on the outside of the camper, well secured handicap bath rails would do, use small bolts to a backing plate on the inside of the camper.. Mount one high, and the other one low. Distance between them is roughly the height of the refrigerator minus a couple inches. Make a well braced strong plywood box for the refrigerator to be mounted in. On one side have a couple hooks that can hook over the top rail. Hook the refrigerator over the top rail and the bottom will rest against the bottom rail.
1" x 1/4" strap AL could be used to fashion the hooks.
It needs to be strong enough that a couple 35lbs raccoons can fight on top of it.
1" x 1/4" strap AL could be used to fashion the hooks.
It needs to be strong enough that a couple 35lbs raccoons can fight on top of it.
Code:
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ASCII art time...
! _
! /O\##########
! | |# #
! |# #
! |# #
! # #
! # #
! # #
! # #
! O(##########
!
! = camper wall
O = rails
| / _ \ = hook
# = box wall
( = shim to level it.
[/FONT]- Thread starter
- #187
Or in our case a black bear or two.
That's a great idea, but I forgot the qualifiers. Due to the hardware on the side, the fridge will have to mount lower. Probably from the top, but the bottom will not contact the camper side, it will hang below. It wouldn't be possible to mount the upper bar with the lift arm hardware
Here's a couple pics of the PS of the camper. Note: when it is closed, the hook holds the lift arms against the side of the camper.
Thanks for the help!
Bogo
FOOF
Make the "bars" out of metal bar stock. They could easily be done so they only stick out 1/2" to 3/4". Use the top bar for support, and just use a removable block of wood as a shim instead of the lower one. I was figuring on deeper depth in the bars so you could use them as towel bars after you gave up on the 3-way refrigerator. I ""ed the bar as in this case a couple 6" to 8" long straps with the middle bent out from the side of the wall would do for hooking the refrigerator to. These bars could also be mounted lower and the bottom of the refrigerator shimmed by removable boards that press against the tire side.
Instead of the top bar you could use folding steps. When folded they may be thin enough to clear the lifting hardware. The flat bars is a much cheaper idea.
Another option would be to have the bar on the refrigerator and use the rear arm holding hook. You may want to beef the arm holding hook up some. For better support, add a second arm holding hook, obviously positioned properly for the lift arm. Then have a 2nd loop on the side of the refrigerator for it. The bars could be bent from flat bar stock, and they obviously would be at different heights to accommodate the lift bar holding hook different heights.
It could also be supported by boards from below, but tires look to be in the way for side mounting. It may work for mounting under the front or rear bed if there is enough height. Mount a couple loops on the bottom of the frame to stick a couple boards into. The end of the board under the trailer would press up against the bottom of the trailer, may need a shim board mounted. The refrigerator then sets on top of the part of the board sticking out. I will note I don't like having the exhaust exiting under the bed platform.
Note, 36" inches is counter top height. If the top of the refrigerator is at that height it could serve as a work surface. If you do mount it that low, I'd put a raccoon proof latch on the door.
Bear proofing is a different matter... I plan on using an electric fence when doing dispersed camping, but I also don't have young kids.
I ""ed the bar as in this case a couple 6" to 8" long straps with the middle bent out from the side of the wall would do for hooking the refrigerator to. These bars could also be mounted lower and the bottom of the refrigerator shimmed by removable boards that press against the tire side.Instead of the top bar you could use folding steps. When folded they may be thin enough to clear the lifting hardware. The flat bars is a much cheaper idea.
Another option would be to have the bar on the refrigerator and use the rear arm holding hook. You may want to beef the arm holding hook up some. For better support, add a second arm holding hook, obviously positioned properly for the lift arm. Then have a 2nd loop on the side of the refrigerator for it. The bars could be bent from flat bar stock, and they obviously would be at different heights to accommodate the lift bar holding hook different heights.
It could also be supported by boards from below, but tires look to be in the way for side mounting. It may work for mounting under the front or rear bed if there is enough height. Mount a couple loops on the bottom of the frame to stick a couple boards into. The end of the board under the trailer would press up against the bottom of the trailer, may need a shim board mounted. The refrigerator then sets on top of the part of the board sticking out. I will note I don't like having the exhaust exiting under the bed platform.
Note, 36" inches is counter top height. If the top of the refrigerator is at that height it could serve as a work surface. If you do mount it that low, I'd put a raccoon proof latch on the door.
Bear proofing is a different matter... I plan on using an electric fence when doing dispersed camping, but I also don't have young kids.
we currently have 2 campers with a 3 way fridge and it is the greatest thing ever,well worth the loss of a bit of space inside.That said, if I had to keep moving it around I believe it would get old very quickly.I like ours hard mounted and all systems plumbed and wired all at once.We have never had a problem with propane leaking and even run the fridge off gas when going down the road.just for fun you may want to fill it up and then weigh and imagine moving around camp like that.hope this helps.
Jerry
Jerry
https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/449593-external-table-mount.html
You could try this. Or mcmaster has some great little hanger brackets that would work nicely.
Although, I would agree, moving that fridge would tire me out. I hated moving coolers around all the time.
Jeremy
You could try this. Or mcmaster has some great little hanger brackets that would work nicely.
Although, I would agree, moving that fridge would tire me out. I hated moving coolers around all the time.
Jeremy
Why not hard mount the fridge and rig up an outlet that you can plug an extension cord into?
Use something like this on your trailer:
MARINCO Inlet at West Marine
Use something like this on your trailer:
MARINCO Inlet at West Marine
Bogo
FOOF
Wow, a relatively low cost one. Only issue I see is it is only 15Amp, but then it uses standard extension cords.
With the normal cost of inlets like that I'd just take an extension cord, make a short 2' tail, and stuff it into a flush mounted box. If an accidental drive off happens, cord pulls strait and unplugs easily. The box is flush mounted and there to stuff the cord into when not in use. I'd weatherstrip the top and sides of the door, and arrange the bottom of the box to drain. Look up electrical hatches for premade doors. $5.55 Round Electric Cable Hatches - Product - Camping World is an example.
Googling "S-23-10-A" with quotes finds a bunch of places. That is the manufacturer part number for a part at Camping World.
JR Products has a bunch of hatch styles. Looks like it may be their part#.
If you use a 30Amp inlet, then it is possible to add AC later, but then you need a 30 cord and/or adapters... 20 Amp is generally the minimum for AC but many current units will run on 15Amp circuits. 20 Amp cords look like a 15 Amp cord, but one of the flat blade prongs is orientated 90 degrees to the other.
With the normal cost of inlets like that I'd just take an extension cord, make a short 2' tail, and stuff it into a flush mounted box. If an accidental drive off happens, cord pulls strait and unplugs easily. The box is flush mounted and there to stuff the cord into when not in use. I'd weatherstrip the top and sides of the door, and arrange the bottom of the box to drain. Look up electrical hatches for premade doors. $5.55 Round Electric Cable Hatches - Product - Camping World is an example.
Googling "S-23-10-A" with quotes finds a bunch of places. That is the manufacturer part number for a part at Camping World.
JR Products has a bunch of hatch styles. Looks like it may be their part#.
If you use a 30Amp inlet, then it is possible to add AC later, but then you need a 30 cord and/or adapters... 20 Amp is generally the minimum for AC but many current units will run on 15Amp circuits. 20 Amp cords look like a 15 Amp cord, but one of the flat blade prongs is orientated 90 degrees to the other.
- Thread starter
- #194
As we spend the majority of our time camping without hookups, the electrical hookups would kill the camper battery in short order. We tried this with our Coleman Powerchill cooler. So the propane hookup will need to be utilized for this to work.
I haven't checked et, but I don't think I have enough room below the slide in bunkends for the fridge to even fit har-mounted. Also, with a popup, I wouldn't have access to the fridge without setting up the camper prior to departing on a trip. We always need cold storage in the Cruiser, so that's why I was thinking of just moving it. It weighs similar to a cooler.
A friend gave me an idea last night. He suggested I weld some angle iron to the framerail equal to the width of the fridge. One side of the angle iron would be flush against the backside of the framerail, while the other side would have a small gap between the bottom of the framerail and the parallel edge of the angle iron.
Like Bogo suggested, I will build a box around the fridge (just to the edge of the trim ring around the fridge door). I will attach another piece of angle iron to the box, cutting off most of the edge that is perpendicular to the top of the fridge leaving a small gap between the other edge and the top of the fridge box.
When finished, I'll have a small slot on the camper that will correspond to the small slot on the fridge and it should hang easily. A propane quick disconnect will take care of the rest. Thanks for the help on this latest addition. I'll have to post up pictures as I go so you have some idea what the hell I'm talking about...
I haven't checked et, but I don't think I have enough room below the slide in bunkends for the fridge to even fit har-mounted. Also, with a popup, I wouldn't have access to the fridge without setting up the camper prior to departing on a trip. We always need cold storage in the Cruiser, so that's why I was thinking of just moving it. It weighs similar to a cooler.
A friend gave me an idea last night. He suggested I weld some angle iron to the framerail equal to the width of the fridge. One side of the angle iron would be flush against the backside of the framerail, while the other side would have a small gap between the bottom of the framerail and the parallel edge of the angle iron.
Like Bogo suggested, I will build a box around the fridge (just to the edge of the trim ring around the fridge door). I will attach another piece of angle iron to the box, cutting off most of the edge that is perpendicular to the top of the fridge leaving a small gap between the other edge and the top of the fridge box.
When finished, I'll have a small slot on the camper that will correspond to the small slot on the fridge and it should hang easily. A propane quick disconnect will take care of the rest. Thanks for the help on this latest addition. I'll have to post up pictures as I go so you have some idea what the hell I'm talking about...
You really won't like the performance of that fridge on 12v. They work great on1 20v and propane but not so well on 12v. Also they do not like angles at all. in 12v or 120v its not bad for angles but it needs to be level for propane. I would get an Engel or ARB fridge.
I keep going back to same thing...and that's the rear bumper. Fab up a bracket to slide in the bumper, with maybe an addtional brace up to the frame.
Maybe if it slid in like a reciever type hitch, except from the side, it would hold the fridge nice and sturdy.
Maybe if it slid in like a reciever type hitch, except from the side, it would hold the fridge nice and sturdy.
- Thread starter
- #197
Pat,
I was hoping you'd chime in as you've always got great ideas.
Unfortunately, that rear stabilizer leg points out to the side. Also, the bumper is not the full width of the camper.
Nick
I was hoping you'd chime in as you've always got great ideas.
Unfortunately, that rear stabilizer leg points out to the side. Also, the bumper is not the full width of the camper.
Nick
Thanks Nick.....I'll take a look at the build pics tonight when I get home from work. Any chance of switching the foldable stabilizer so it goes toward the back intead of the side? IIRC you made some slick slide in supports for the stabilizer.....
Okay....here goes...
this is "assumptions-r-us.....lol
I'm guessing the fridge is somewhere around 2' x 2'..
I'm also guessing after looking at the build pics (after the rear spring reinforcement) that back bumper sticks out a good 14"-16" inches...so..
this is my first attempt, a little bulky but maybe someone can add some flavor.
I'm thinking a aluminum pan (1/8") connected to a 16# 1" x 2" metal frame.
If the two pcs. (frame and pan)were independent of each other than I think the frame could be hinged to lay flat. You would put a 3/4" hole in the bumper and slide this over it and secure it wih a pin. The way it sits in the picture the pan is 2' x 2' and metal frame is about 2'-3" from top to bottom, but that could easily be shortend.
this is "assumptions-r-us.....lol
I'm guessing the fridge is somewhere around 2' x 2'..
I'm also guessing after looking at the build pics (after the rear spring reinforcement) that back bumper sticks out a good 14"-16" inches...so..
this is my first attempt, a little bulky but maybe someone can add some flavor.
I'm thinking a aluminum pan (1/8") connected to a 16# 1" x 2" metal frame.
If the two pcs. (frame and pan)were independent of each other than I think the frame could be hinged to lay flat. You would put a 3/4" hole in the bumper and slide this over it and secure it wih a pin. The way it sits in the picture the pan is 2' x 2' and metal frame is about 2'-3" from top to bottom, but that could easily be shortend.
just saw this on another thread and dont know what the back of the fridge looks like but thought this might be interesting or maybe even two bars on the side of the truck
106 – French Cleat Storage System | The Wood Whisperer
106 – French Cleat Storage System | The Wood Whisperer
