Off with the head and smog equipment!

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Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Threads
18
Messages
130
Location
Central Utah
I've been fighting with my 60 having a dificault time getting it to start. I had done a desmog to try and get it to run better but ended up finding that the carb leaks fuel from the jet valve. I have a rebuild kit but the item I need to fix is not available to purchas anywhere that I can find so I ordered a new carb from TrollHole.

I have removed all the Smog equipment on the vehicle and have gotten a Man-A-Fre HEI lightning strike distributor. all the items needed to block off the air rail holes and EGR and then I have the pully to replace the smog pump with.

Am I headded down the right road to getting this to run better?

I ended up pulling the head the other night and when I turned it on it's side and filled the intake and exhaust ports with water all but two of the valves leaked water through the valves. They should hold water right?

I see that most do a desmog and leave some stuff on but who has removed everything and has a good running vehicle?

I have a good smog pump if anybody needs one also.

Jon
top of engine.webp
 
What do you consider "everything"? Some stuff (not necessarily associated with smog) you will want to keep. The charcoal canister and associated control valve, VCV, and BVSV will keep your cab from smelling like gas. The vacuum venting on the distributor will keep Ozone and water vapor from building up inside the dizzy and exploding or rusting. Living in central Utah, I would think that you would also want to retain the High Altitude Compensation system. Ditto with the Hot Air Induction system. But everything else can go, and it will run as good or better than stock. I de-smogged my 40 (leaving on everything above except the HAI) and it was a vast improvement because a lot of the plastic parts like BVSV's had degraded and were no longer functioning. My 60 still runs good with the stock system (though it does not start as easy as the 40) so the smog stuff stays for now - but at the first sign of trouble it's all getting s***canned for sure.
 
I am interested in the smog pump!! How much are you asking for it? Would you ship it to 61938 Mattoon, IL Thx
 
Quote 1911
"What do you consider "everything"? Some stuff (not necessarily associated with smog) you will want to keep. The charcoal canister and associated control valve, VCV, and BVSV will keep your cab from smelling like gas. The vacuum venting on the distributor will keep Ozone and water vapor from building up inside the dizzy and exploding or rusting. Living in central Utah, I would think that you would also want to retain the High Altitude Compensation system. Ditto with the Hot Air Induction system."


I guess I havent removed everything, I've been running it for almost a year withought the smog equipment. I just ordered the block off plates for the EGR since it was just there but not doing anything. I started this project about three years ago and while the thing looks great it runs like a turtle. I pulled the smog pump and got rid of alot of the vacuum lines about a year ago and have been able to get it to run 55 but it seems like it your pushing it by trying to do that.

I started to focus on the carb because I found that the slugishness was because the second barrel wouldn't open up. as I tried to fix that I found that the rebuilt carb I bought from cruiserparts is junk I decided to just order on from Trollhole and start over.

I recall seeing a vac line going to the dissy but I belive it is for the vac advance.

The biggest problem I've had is that others have worked on it and removed items to get it to run better and now I've decided to go-it on my own to try to make it right.

second problem is that I'm no mechanic and have no idea what alot of this stuff is.

Jon
 
I've read the My desmog thread 4 times printed alot of the pics from it but I still have less vac lines then most of the pics I see. Maybe I need to start all over again.
 
2nd on the Smog Pump...I need a spare!
 
Sorry to hear about all your carb problems, but while you have the head off fix your oil galley plug.
It is an easy fix with the head off and you wount have too deal with it later down the road. good luck

RAMZ.
 
The gally plug got a bandaid once, the hole was taped but the tip of the allen wrench broke off durrign instalation of the new plug and JB weld was used to try and seal it up and it didn't work. Im going to have the machine shop drill it out again and fix right this time.
 

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