- Thread starter
- #21
Will LJ70 prado side doors fit the BJ73?
NZ BJ73 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter PATHnz
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
No, the front corner of the Prado door upper window frame is curved vs the angle on most other 70 series. I actually need a passenger door for my LJ71 if you know where one is.
Re the clutch, not sure if the plumbing is the same but I had a leak once from this funny little thing in line down under the floor, a pulsation damper maybe? Threw it away & replaced with a line straight through.
Cheers
Clint
- Thread starter
- #24
Where would I get parts in NZ? Looking for door weatherstripping etc - found it online in Oz but is there a good NZ source? I like online shopping but I guess I should just call my local Toyota dealer with part numbers?
Clutch has been leaking from the master cylinder through the clutch booster & through the firewall, paint is stripped under the carpet & lightly rusted. Not sure what I'll do about that as presumably the carpet/felt is still soaked with brake fluid so there's presumably not much point re-painting? Cleaned it up and rust-killed it anyway. Also is stripped around the clutch booster on the engine bay side of the firewall.
Have a new master cylinder and have drained the clutch system, waiting for a 10mm flare wrench and blowtorch to arrive this week to get the old clutch line off. Probably need to have a look at the clutch booster/seals also but don't really know til I get it off. Apparently about 1200AU for a new genuine Toyota booster, if you can find one.... Might have to look at getting it rebuilt. Presumably some playing with the vacuum hoses will tell me whether it's working or not.
Drivers footwell/firewall under the carpet/felting
Also found a lot of rust in my passenger door (noticed it while bleeding the clutch) so I spent this afternoon making space in the garage then pushed the truck inside and stripped/pulled the front door, going to the local panel beaters tomorrow to get cut out & welded.
Only fits with about 80mm clearance overhead, good thing I haven't bought suspension parts yet
One patch of rust - it's also rusted out badly along the bottom where water obviously pools, sort of behind the weatherstripping.
Also started finding/pulling some mystery dead wiring the other day, traced one wire back along the chassis to disappear into the rear quarter, pulled the tail lights and found some minor rust starting
Cleaning & rust killing
My rear right quarter also appears to have a healthy coating of bog on quite a lot of it. Doesn't go right through so presumably it had some surface rust that needed filling at some point?? There is however some minor surface rust starting on the back of the taillight recesses inside the read quarters.
Current plan is to fix a few mechanical things and any bad rust I find, then next summer strip and fully repaint everything taking care of whatever rust I find, also chuck in suspension, turbo, new rims & tyres at the same time. FRP top needs some love, also want to build a rear bumper with spare wheel carrier to take the weight off the door so I'm on the lookout for an arc welder...
Clutch has been leaking from the master cylinder through the clutch booster & through the firewall, paint is stripped under the carpet & lightly rusted. Not sure what I'll do about that as presumably the carpet/felt is still soaked with brake fluid so there's presumably not much point re-painting? Cleaned it up and rust-killed it anyway. Also is stripped around the clutch booster on the engine bay side of the firewall.
Have a new master cylinder and have drained the clutch system, waiting for a 10mm flare wrench and blowtorch to arrive this week to get the old clutch line off. Probably need to have a look at the clutch booster/seals also but don't really know til I get it off. Apparently about 1200AU for a new genuine Toyota booster, if you can find one.... Might have to look at getting it rebuilt. Presumably some playing with the vacuum hoses will tell me whether it's working or not.
Drivers footwell/firewall under the carpet/felting
Also found a lot of rust in my passenger door (noticed it while bleeding the clutch) so I spent this afternoon making space in the garage then pushed the truck inside and stripped/pulled the front door, going to the local panel beaters tomorrow to get cut out & welded.
Only fits with about 80mm clearance overhead, good thing I haven't bought suspension parts yet
One patch of rust - it's also rusted out badly along the bottom where water obviously pools, sort of behind the weatherstripping.
Also started finding/pulling some mystery dead wiring the other day, traced one wire back along the chassis to disappear into the rear quarter, pulled the tail lights and found some minor rust starting
Cleaning & rust killing
My rear right quarter also appears to have a healthy coating of bog on quite a lot of it. Doesn't go right through so presumably it had some surface rust that needed filling at some point?? There is however some minor surface rust starting on the back of the taillight recesses inside the read quarters.
Current plan is to fix a few mechanical things and any bad rust I find, then next summer strip and fully repaint everything taking care of whatever rust I find, also chuck in suspension, turbo, new rims & tyres at the same time. FRP top needs some love, also want to build a rear bumper with spare wheel carrier to take the weight off the door so I'm on the lookout for an arc welder...
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Nice rig, in good hands it sounds like!
On the pto uni, the crosses itself can be retrofitted/swapped for same size in the steering column, but there seems to be a few different sizes over the years so check that out.
Also, maybe the spline part with most rattle at your joint, may be the same as the one on the steering shaft too!
(I'm a 60 guy, so maybe you'll have to look at them in the wreckers)
On the pto uni, the crosses itself can be retrofitted/swapped for same size in the steering column, but there seems to be a few different sizes over the years so check that out.
Also, maybe the spline part with most rattle at your joint, may be the same as the one on the steering shaft too!
(I'm a 60 guy, so maybe you'll have to look at them in the wreckers)
Maybe check out Oz ebay for a clutch booster if you need one, I got my new double diaphragm brake booster off seller bxbooster for $250. I think they do a big range of boosters.
A wash with warm soapy water would probably get the brake fluid out of your carpet.
Cheers
Clint
A wash with warm soapy water would probably get the brake fluid out of your carpet.
Cheers
Clint
- Thread starter
- #27
Got my door back on today. Waiting for new inner & outer window weatherstripping to arrive still but jammed the old ones in for now. Also missing some of the little plastic doodads to secure the outer door weather stripping, will find some this week. Rust repair looks tidy from the outside but there's still a bit of rot on the inside, will have to smash it with some kill rust and fish oil at some point. Gotta drive about 660km to Invercargill next weekend, been seconded there to a new job for the winter... so have to get the clutch sorted by then!! waiting for a used booster to come in the post.
- Thread starter
- #28
My used clutch booster finally showed up in the post, a week late. It came with a newish looking AISIN master cylinder, as a bonus. Got it all cleaned up and installed, but couldn't get it to work - not enough length adjustment for the clevis, clutch pedal sat way too low. Also couldn't loosen the push rod to adjust it either, need a 1/4" head ratchet for my 7mm socket. So cleaned up the old booster, adjusted the push rod for the new master cylinder - the manual specifies a special tool, but I just press fit the cylinder against it and shortened the push rod until there was *just* a tiny fraction of pressure on it from the piston. Installed it, bled it with the "tube and brake fluid in a jar" method and it works for now, no actual boosting going on of course but I can drive again. Have to see if I can get more adjustment out of the new booster somehow to get more pedal height & actual boost. Or take the seals from it to rebuild the old booster. Nice to have a spare master cylinder though.
Old on top, new on the bottom.
Old on top, new on the bottom.
- Thread starter
- #29
Have done about 1400 k's with no problems since. Managed to get a 11.3 L per 100km highway miles, with a bit of a load of gear on, doing 95-105k's per hour where possible (it's not possible up the hills...)
Got a new exhaust fitted today, 2 1/2 inch system with a free-flow muffler. Cut off the old exhaust a couple feet downstream of the manifold and attached the new system there - when I turbo in the near future, it'll be a matter of cutting it off where it is connected to the old exhaust, throwing that away, and hooking up a downpipe.
Also got some rad new alloys, 15x7 -13mm offset, whipped off one of my current mystery steelies and the new alloys appear to only have 2-7mm less offset (it's hard to measure) so they ought to fit; I have heaps of clearance around everything. Going to get my tyres fitted to them this weekend
Got a new exhaust fitted today, 2 1/2 inch system with a free-flow muffler. Cut off the old exhaust a couple feet downstream of the manifold and attached the new system there - when I turbo in the near future, it'll be a matter of cutting it off where it is connected to the old exhaust, throwing that away, and hooking up a downpipe.
Also got some rad new alloys, 15x7 -13mm offset, whipped off one of my current mystery steelies and the new alloys appear to only have 2-7mm less offset (it's hard to measure) so they ought to fit; I have heaps of clearance around everything. Going to get my tyres fitted to them this weekend
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Good stuff!
How did the clutch booster saga end? Were the two boosters the same, but adjustments different?
How did the clutch booster saga end? Were the two boosters the same, but adjustments different?
- Thread starter
- #31
It's as yet not solved. I'm currently still using the original, broken, booster, just connected as sort of a connecting rod from the pedal to the master cylinder. I have a new master cylinder to fit a 70 with no booster, which I intend to fit if possible, thus removing the booster entirely. But to do this I need to drain the clutch system, remove the booster, possibly modify the firewall, definitely remove a captive nut from the firewall (a stud on the master cylinder needs to go through where that captive nut is, will replace it with a locking nut on the inside of the firewall) and modify the clutch line - cut, bend, re-flare to suit the new master cylinder location. It's a "later" project. Removing the booster will remove breakable moving parts from the truck, and give me more space for a turbo install.
Had been having difficulty with starting on cold mornings lately, a very rough idle and missing on one cylinder. Oil pressure high when cold as well. Changed the engine oils and oil filter, and air filter. With that and the new exhaust it runs much better. 6000km since last oil (of unknown quality) and oil filter change, unknown since last air filter. Doesn't appear to burn any significant oil.
Also adjusted the idle position on the (rotary) IP, previously it was idling about 300rpm, very rough, I would just screw on a bit of hand throttle to even it out, but now it idles nicely at 600-700rpm with no throttle.
- Thread starter
- #32
Still averaging 11.3-11.4 L per 100km highway; about 12.5 mixed highway and city. Will be interested to see how/if that changes once I get my tyres swapped to the alloys instead of the steelies
- Thread starter
- #33
My brakes are playing up. Had been having the (!) light come on occasionally when stationary with my foot on the brake pedal, thought it was due to pad wear or something. Today, had very little stopping power, pedal is still first. Points to booster being faulty, or vacuum pump being faulty? Or a vacuum leak.
Vacuum pump is still pulling vacuum (tested by pulling a vac hose and putting my thumb over top, can feel it sucking) - unsure how much, or how much it should be pulling?
Are there any definitive tests for the brake booster function (aside from those outlined in the service manual) ?
Have tested the booster operation as per manual - depress pedal several times with engine off, then hold it down and start engine, pedal moves down a little, so the booster is all good according to that..?
Unsure where to go from here. Vacuum leak, or pump not pulling enough vac?
Vacuum pump is still pulling vacuum (tested by pulling a vac hose and putting my thumb over top, can feel it sucking) - unsure how much, or how much it should be pulling?
Are there any definitive tests for the brake booster function (aside from those outlined in the service manual) ?
Have tested the booster operation as per manual - depress pedal several times with engine off, then hold it down and start engine, pedal moves down a little, so the booster is all good according to that..?
Unsure where to go from here. Vacuum leak, or pump not pulling enough vac?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #34
Also went for a drive today, into Macetown - old mining ghost town.
- Thread starter
- #35
The fix.... vacuum leaking through busted clutch booster. Remove vac hose from reservoir to booster; cap reservoir outlet fitting. Brakes: as good as new. Clutch booster... ? to go in the bin, soon...
- Thread starter
- #36
Spent the morning mucking around doing little bits and pieces.
Moved my license plate bracket
Had ordered new hood bumpers which had arrived so I replaced them.
Old and busted
Doesn't line up properly
New and shiny
Adjusted these also
Lines up nicely. New bumpers didn't actually do s*** to help it line up but oh well they cost $16 for 4
Fixed the outer door weatherstripping on my passenger door and put in the new window seals. Old and busted
New and actually sealing
Removed the vac reservoir for the clutch booster. So much more room!
Fixed my drivers door lock/diesel cap cylinders, this was easy
Put bash plates back on underneath also, drilled out a broken bolt and tapped the hole to 10x1.5. Ran an m8 tap through all the other bolt holes and ran the bolts through a die nut.
Then discovered my injector pump is leaking
Other parts that arrived are valve cover gasket for when I do my valve clearances (waiting on feeler gauges) shifter seat bushing and seal, and gasket and cover and bolts for PTO output on the xfer case, but I might keep the PTO winch now, having priced up Warn electric winches
Moved my license plate bracket
Had ordered new hood bumpers which had arrived so I replaced them.
Old and busted
Doesn't line up properly
New and shiny
Adjusted these also
Lines up nicely. New bumpers didn't actually do s*** to help it line up but oh well they cost $16 for 4
Fixed the outer door weatherstripping on my passenger door and put in the new window seals. Old and busted
New and actually sealing
Removed the vac reservoir for the clutch booster. So much more room!
Fixed my drivers door lock/diesel cap cylinders, this was easy
Put bash plates back on underneath also, drilled out a broken bolt and tapped the hole to 10x1.5. Ran an m8 tap through all the other bolt holes and ran the bolts through a die nut.
Then discovered my injector pump is leaking
Other parts that arrived are valve cover gasket for when I do my valve clearances (waiting on feeler gauges) shifter seat bushing and seal, and gasket and cover and bolts for PTO output on the xfer case, but I might keep the PTO winch now, having priced up Warn electric winches
- Thread starter
- #38
Yeah just have a pretty dodgy rattly driveshaft on it... but that should be fixable.
- Thread starter
- #39
Passed a 6-monthly roadworthy inspection (WOF) with just a park light globe needed, so that was positive
I disconnected my non-functional aircon by the simple method of removing the belt and the idler pulley. Now to sit back and enjoy my improved fuel economy without all that parasitic drag. Power steering idler pulley feels like it's on the way out, will have to replace it.
Also decided to check the shifter seat bushing, since apparently they wear out and I had bought a spare one. Turns out mine is fine, which should have been obvious given that I have very little slop in my shifter. Then I spent an hour pulling the interior apart to try get the 4 tiny bolts that hold the shifter boot on back in, frickin carpet was in the way.
Also removed a bunch of junk wiring that used to be hooked up to spotlights, which I am never going to want. Didn't electrocute myself and the radio gets better reception, bonus.
Any ideas what that finned aluminium whatsit is? because it's clearly not factory, has a mystery hot wire to it off the battery which is routed in the most retarded fashion along the chassis, wonder if it's cool to just rip it out
I disconnected my non-functional aircon by the simple method of removing the belt and the idler pulley. Now to sit back and enjoy my improved fuel economy without all that parasitic drag. Power steering idler pulley feels like it's on the way out, will have to replace it.
Also decided to check the shifter seat bushing, since apparently they wear out and I had bought a spare one. Turns out mine is fine, which should have been obvious given that I have very little slop in my shifter. Then I spent an hour pulling the interior apart to try get the 4 tiny bolts that hold the shifter boot on back in, frickin carpet was in the way.
Also removed a bunch of junk wiring that used to be hooked up to spotlights, which I am never going to want. Didn't electrocute myself and the radio gets better reception, bonus.
Any ideas what that finned aluminium whatsit is? because it's clearly not factory, has a mystery hot wire to it off the battery which is routed in the most retarded fashion along the chassis, wonder if it's cool to just rip it out
I just saw a pic of a fuel pump for a FZJ3 that looked just like that aluminum thing. So maybe that's what
it is?
Toyota land cruiser 4.2 1996 fuel pump resister (23080-66010)
it is?
Toyota land cruiser 4.2 1996 fuel pump resister (23080-66010)
