NZ BJ73

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Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Threads
29
Messages
199
Location
New Zealand
Just before Christmas a friend had a kid, and had to sell his BJ73 for a more family-friendly wagon. My old Surf had been giving me problems and I've always wanted a 70 series after driving them a lot for work in Australia, so I bought it and then promptly drove it most of the length of New Zealand over the next week.



It's a 1985 5-speed model with just under 280,000km on the clock (although presumably it's been wound back). It originally had the big chrome shelf bumper, with PTO winch, kumho 31" muddies on steel wheels. Mostly stock and with a pretty tidy interior. It's going to be my daily driver and a hunting truck, mostly for driving up big braided riverbeds for access to mountain areas.

There was a little chassis rust I wanted to clean up before it became a problem (I live on the very wet West Coast) so I hit it with a wire brush, rust converter and then some black zinc rattle can





The exhaust was rusted out and blew through in the middle of my Christmas road trip, just under the drivers door on the welds for the brackets, so I made some temporary repairs, but I'll have to get a whole new exhaust before it'll pass a WOF inspection - it's not due one until June so I'm in no rush - is it worth getting a larger dia performance exhaust for a 3B? Will there be an appreciable performance or economy gain?



I didn't like the big chrome shelf bumper so I removed it and hit the winch housing with the angle grinder to clean it up a bit. Have some new parts being fabbed to reduce the profile of it a bit, and a new nylon rope and Hawse fairlead, hope to get that all fitted in the next week or 2.







The rear diff was seeping oil from the pinion seal, so I changed that, but the seep seems to have continued, possibly due to a worn pinion flange?



The inside of the rear wheel arches was bare of any coating, so I thoroughly cleaned, degreased, rust-converted them and then painted with rattlecan underbody liner. Also hit the entire chassis with fish oil at the same time.





Also got a Hi Lift Jack mount for the spare wheel carrier



There are a variety of small patches of paint & panel damage, minor bits of panel rust etc that I am hoping to address in the future - perhaps a complete respray of the body.







I have a Safari snorkel sitting in the corner ready to install, but the holes in the template don't seem to quite match up with the holes in the actual snorkel - is this normal? It seems concerning.

There's also a distinct back-to-front angle to the truck which I'd like to fix - would prefer it to ride flat. Any suggestions? I'm unsure if it's been lifted at any point.

The gearbox, PTO box or t/fer case has a pretty serious oil seep that I need to track down and sort out

Future plans include new speakers, BFG ATs, new rims or strip and repaint the existing, badly rattle-canned rims, and drive the heck out of it.
 
Thanks for sharing.
When I installed my Safari snorkel it took me a bit to figure out how to use the template and what it was guiding. I finally figured out that the template was to start at the back of the fender, then I had to carefully read through the instructions and understand what each hole was. The one that threw me off the most is the guide hole for you whole saw. I was thinking it was going to be the size of the hole but it was simply the center of where the hole should be. If you are trying to align the template to the snorkel while it is off you will only be able to align the back 3 support holes becuase of the area where you will drill the large hole just being a guide insted of a full size whole. Once you get into it it makes a lot more sense as to why it is that way... less room for error when you drill the large hole. Go slow and press a little hard when using the hole saw. It does not do well under high rpm.
 
Picked up the truck today after having the bits fabbed up and installed for the winch housing, I figured I may as well get the snorkel installed at the same time since I was going to be out of town and not have time to do it. Looks good, s*** myself at the price. Gotta buy me an arc welder.... Spooled up the new dyneema winch rope. Still gotta get the bash plates for under the winch housing and radiator etc installed but the mods to the winch housing look to have improved the approach angle a fair bit.



 
With the window open you can probably hear the snorkel sucking air into the engine... kinda cool:) My intake faces forward too but I have not driven it in any big rain since I put it on. I know air flow is a little better facing forward but if it is rainy I would think I could catch more water than the little resevior can take in the air box.
 
Is the air flow rate really high enough to make a sound when air goes into the snorkel? :confused:

Nice cruiser there btw.
 
Perhaps it's because I am old and deaf but I've never been able to hear the snorkel over the diesel and road noise.
 
I have a new exhaust system and when I leave the house in the morning before I get moving any speed, yes I can hear it. Sounds very throaty. I have the older model of BFG AT's slightly aired down so they are pretty quite. Getting ready to change to a 305/65R17 for a wider stance and will be placing fiberglass fenders on it so not to look like a skate board.
 
It does sound meatier with the snorkel. Never really noticed a difference on the Surf with/without

Sorted my dual stereo/no cupholder situation today. Still need new speakers & probably some bigger ones in the back rather than just the 2 4" jobs under the dash

Before


After

 
Got concerned about my gearbox leak today and pulled off the bashplate under it to have a look. Plate had about an inch of oily grime built up on it but at least the bolts came out with no drama. Still need to sort out the broken bolts where I took off the front 2 bash plates.



Anyways the gearbox and tfer case both appear to be full to overfull of oil, but the PTO box appears to be somewhat dry. Oil leak mostly appears to be from around the fill bung on the tfer case.

My PTO shaft looks pretty suspect around the rear uni joint, the splined bit of the shaft where it slots into the Uni is just flopping around loose in there, it still works but doesn't look/sound healthy. Is this normal?

Video of PTO shaft
 
Got a Rob Smith LED dome light conversion. Much brighter than the old incandescent. Easy swap.



I'll have to forward this photo to Rob. He'll enjoy seeing them. :)
 
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Good stuff, she sure does look nicer without the porch on the front.

My PTO shaft looks pretty suspect around the rear uni joint, the splined bit of the shaft where it slots into the Uni is just flopping around loose in there, it still works but doesn't look/sound healthy. Is this normal?

They are often a bit loose but maybe not quite that bad. I'd replace that before trying too much hard winching...

Cheers
Clint
 
Good stuff, she sure does look nicer without the porch on the front.



They are often a bit loose but maybe not quite that bad. I'd replace that before trying too much hard winching...

Cheers
Clint

Are the parts still available? Having difficulty finding a parts diagram to get the part numbers
 
So the clutch went today. Loaned the 73 to my friend while I was trying to get a broken bolt out of the alternator of his LN106 Hilux, and he got 100m down the street from his place in first gear then couldn't change. I drove up and had a look, clutch fluid reservoir empty, no obvious leak from master or slave cylinders. So we filled & bled it and it works ok for now, will get it home anyway.

So where do I start looking to diagnose where the leak is?

Also discovered that the passenger door is very rusted out along the bottom, joy
 
Yeah it appears to be leaking out at the firewall where the clutch booster (?) is attached to/through the firewall. Will pull the clutch master at some point this week and get a new one and hope that resolves it
 
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