.but please dont laugh!! this would be my fisrt time going the DIY'er route...
Since this is your first DIY project and you are starting with an oil change, I will give my suggestions. The assumption is that you have little knowledge and are not afraid of investing in tools and equipment to do some maintenance yourself.
LOF (Lube, Oil, and Filter)
====================
The 1FZ-FE engine uses 8qts of oil, has a spin-on cartridge filter, and has 2 drive shafts with 3 grease zirks on each shaft.
Lubricants and parts needed
=====================
8 qts of premium oil. Factory spec is 5w30. Many of us use M1 synthetic. If this is a new-to-you truck then start with a good conventional oil like Delo in the recommended weight. If you want to become an expert on engine lubrication then read the FAQ discussions on engine oil.
1 spin-on oil filter. Get a premium brand, preferably Toyota. Many of us like the 90915-20004 filters that you can get from Cruiserdan. Stay away from Fram.
1 oil pan drain plug gasket (order 1ea per filter when you get your filters from Cruiserdan).
Tube of premium HD (wheel bearing) grease
Tools
=====
12mm 6-pt socket or boxed-end wrench (to remove the drain plug)
3/8" breaker bar
Oil funnel (nice to have when filling )
Shop towels
Latex work gloves if you have them
Can of brake cleaner if you have it
Appropriate bucket or oil catch can
Grease gun
Move the vehicle to the work area. You should be able to get under the truck without raising it on jack stands or on ramps. If you are at stock height and you are a big fella, then you may need ramps. If you need to get it in the air then be safe and ask questions. We will assume you are leaving it on all 4 wheels.
I like to spread out an old throw rug or something like that under the truck because I usually make a mess and I don't like oil on my garage floor.
Skip ahead to step #6 now while the engine is cooling down. After the engine is cool, start at step #1.
LOF Steps
========
1. Raise the bonnet and start looking for the oil filter. On the 1FZ-FE it is on the left side of the engine, underneath the PS reservoir.
2. Position the oil catch can underneath the oil filter. Position a shop towel on top of the axle housing, directly underneath the oil filter.
3. From the engine bay, reach down with your hand, grasp the filter firmly, and turn it counter-clockwise. With any luck and some strength, it should come loose. If it doesn't then clean it off with the shop towels and brake cleaner so you can get a better grip. Use sandpaper if you have it.
4. When the filter is loose, some oil will begin dripping down on the axle housing and splatter everywhere. If you got the shop towel in the right place the splatter will be manageable. Quickly unscrew the oil filter and turn it right-side up to minimize oil spillage. Some guys use a plastic sack to make this a little less messy. Snake the oil filter out from above and place it upside down in the oil catch can.
5. Using a light source, inspect the engine block to be sure the gasket is not left stuck to the engine. Use a shop towel to clean the area where the new oil filter will mount.
6. Ingest a cold premium beer.
7. Examine your new 90915-20004 oil filter. You will see a rubber seal that is on the top. Take a couple of drops of fresh oil or clean grease and pre-lube the seal. Read the installation instructions. It probably says to turn 3/4-turn after the seal makes contact. Install the oil filter, taking care not to crank it down too tight. Follow the instructions that came with your oil filter.
8. Grab your 12mm socket and breaker and crawl under the truck and slide the oil catch can underneath the oil pan drain plug.
9. Loosen the drain plug and let the 8qts drain into the catch can. After all the oil is drained, clean and inspect the drain plug area, use a new plug gasket, and install the drain plug. Torque to about 18 ft/lbs. Since you probably don't have a torque wrench, this will be "snug" but don't reef on that plug. It just needs to make a good seal; it isn't clamping down some important brake components.
10. Clean up under the truck and remove the oil catch can.
11. Remove the oil cap, insert the funnel, and pour in 7 qts of your oil. Check the dipstick level. It should be about 1qt low. I always add 8qts but the proper way is to add until the dipstick is indicating full, tested after you start the engine and remeasure.
12. Remove the funnel and replace the oil cap.
13. Start the engine, watch for the oil pressure to indicate normal pressure (takes about 5 secs), inspect for any leaks, watch for oil level lamp, shut off engine, and recheck the oil level.
Lube
14. Using a good HD grease, crawl under the truck and look for the grease zerk on the front DS, diff side U-joint. You may have to move the truck or the DS to position the zerks correctly. All 3 will line up at the same time. Squirt grease in the zerk until you hear a "crack" or "pop" as the old grease breaks the seal loose and starts oozing out. Stop and go to the next U-joint. Repeat. Locate the slip joint zerk and squirt grease until you see the joint move about 1/2", then stop. Repeat with the other drive shaft. Clean up excess grease with shop towels and brake cleaner. If you don't, the DS will sling it onto your muffler and you will smell burning grease for a week and your wife will think you've screwed the pooch with your DIY LOF.
15. Repeat step 6.
Probably forgot something in there and others will have some time saving tips that I either forgot or don't know about.
Good Luck and keep us posted on your first project.
-B-
We get our amusement from those threads.
