Number 6 is a bitch!

[photogod]

Did pads and a flush allong with plugs and wires and I'm tellin ya, it was touch and go on the plugs, at least #6. That mo fo took me an honest 12 minutes to remove. It was tighter than a Nuns ct and I had to back it out a couple turns and then back in and back out a couple turns and back in and...... you get the point, but a couple times I thought it was going to snap off in there. All the others sept #1 were a sinch, they all looked clean and they all looked the same. None cross threaded. Do you guys recomend anti seize or anything alse on the threads upon instalation or put em in dry?

Thanks.

 

[OGBeno]

It was tighter than a Nuns ct

Now that's funny....[chicken breast flying on screen...]

I did dielectric on the connections and anti seize on the threads.

#6 sucks indeed...

 

[Romer]

I agree. If you research back almost 2 years, you will see that it was so hard I climbed up on the engine and snaped the plastic feeder tube on top of the radiator. Just leaned on it with my hand. Thats why I know a 94 Rad will fit in a 97 and its $300 cheaper.

Careful of the radiator.

 

[photogod]

I agree. If you research back almost 2 years, you will see that it was so hard I climbed up on the engine and snaped the plastic feeder tube on top of the radiator. Just leaned on it with my hand. Thats why I know a 94 Rad will fit in a 97 and its $300 cheaper.

Careful of the radiator.

I do indeed remember posts about the dredded radiator so I put a packing blanket on the passenger fender and climbed up a couple rungs on the lader and put up with the back pain!

 

[landtank]

I don't think antiseize is a good thing on the threads. I thought I read some negative copy on that. If the old plugs come out a little hard I wipe then down with a little motor oil on a rag, nothing more.

 

[OGBeno]

I don't think antiseize is a good thing on the threads. I thought I read some negative copy on that. If the old plugs come out a little hard I wipe then down with a little motor oil on a rag, nothing more.

Guess I am fawked....

 

[Cattledog]

I have used anitseize on plugs for all aluminum heads for years. Aluminum is just too soft and easy to strip out. Never had a problem.

BTW, You don't need to cover it to death, a light finger wipe is fine. The only down side I have ever heard was anitsieze building up around the piston rings if it was used excesively.

 

[CJF]

I don't think antiseize is a good thing on the threads. I thought I read some negative copy on that.

I hope not. No way am I puttin' 'em in without anti-seize. This is on a 3FE cast iron (correct?) head though.

Curtis

 

[Tools R Us]

I don't think antiseize is a good thing on the threads. I thought I read some negative copy on that. If the old plugs come out a little hard I wipe then down with a little motor oil on a rag, nothing more.

I have put literally thousands of plugs in with anti-seize on the threads and silicone grease on the boots, never had an issue. Use good Japanese or if you must German plugs, we had the most problems with domestic plugs in alloy heads, called Champion plugs thread pullers.

 

[landtank]

i did a quick google and found this on using anti seize

 

[IdahoDoug]

I'm with Kevin, but Rick's link has some good points on torque. If any of you are ever in this situation where Photogod's describing spark plugs that once broken loose begin to bind again as they're removed - STOP! Squirt some pentrating oil down onto the plug and work on the next plug for a minute or relax. Then screw the problem plug back in a half turn, out that same half turn and do this a few times until you feel it noticeably loosen up. Then you should be able to remove it.

If it does NOT noticeable loosen up then STOP again as you're generating heat down in the threads and for some reason the oil simply hasn't penetrated yet. More time - maybe hours or overnight. But this is definitely worth it to avoid screwing up the head. I've had this happen and it's a downright freaky occurance as you start thinking the plug's going to sieze. What's happening is theres a tremendous amount of heat at the spark plug thread contact point with the head thread and 'galling' is occuring. Literally, the heat is smearing the aluminum and the result is the space between the threads is filling with smeared aluminum and the tolerances are tightening up. Once this begins, your chances of getting penetrating oil into an ever tighter thread are diminishing. Stopping immediately means just a simple delay while penetrating oil gets in there and allows you to withdraw the plug without that heat. Continuing may mean the penetrating oil cannot save you and you may be in a world of hurt in only a few more seconds of foolish cranking...

DougM

 

[drsales]

A very small dab of grease on the threads has been a standard for me for many years. An old time mechanic had been doing this for decades and swears by it. That is before he passed on to the big garage in the sky!

 

[fzj80kidpen]

I alway put my plugs in naked. Luckily I have never ran into this problem, yet. As usual YOU ALL A FREAKIN ME OUT.
Aluminium heads, theres got to be a better material

 

[Koffer]

Aluminium heads, theres got to be a better material

Wasn't there a thread about a cast iron head (NATO spec) for the 1FZ ?

 

[Doc]

I don't know why you guys have so much trouble with the #6 plug. I've never had that much trouble with it. Put a U-joint adapter on your socket and an 8" extenstion... no problems. The only problem I've iver had is that on the installation I have to duct tape my spark plug socket to the extension or it remains in the hole.

 

[ed97fzj80]

I'm starting to think I was just extremely lucky. I bought a spark plug socket on a long wobble extension -- $10 or so at Harbor Freight. If the socket decides to marry the plug, the extension is still sticking out the hole at the top. Aside from the bruised ribs from leaning over the fender, I had no issues at all.

 

[Scamper]

got to agree with Doc. I was beginning to think there was something different about my truck, but I've never had any problem with #6. The socket is just the right size, and the rubber grommet inside holds the plug nice and snug for replacement. The right size extension is a must, but otherwise

 

[Land Speeder]

photogod,
is this your 91 or 94?
I just changed my 91 plugs and #6 was harder than the others but I used a long 24" extension rising out of the engine bay and it worked perfect, albeit snugged against the firewall, but still worked.

 

[photogod]

This is my 94 and the problem wasn't getting at the plug it was the plug it's self refusing to come out. I did what IDoug mentioned except with out the lube. Turned it out till it got stiff, not tight, and then back in again, then out till it stiffened and then back in and repeated till it worked out. I never really put too much pressure on it because I am out of luck for this life time and didn't want the sound of a snapping plug to be the last thing I heard before I woke up the neighborhood with swear words. This is an aluminum head so isn't anti seize recomended? Completely forgot about that! If so I guess I go back in for round two. The Denso's that were in there had none on them.

 

[nakman]

I'm also with Doc, didn't think #6 was that bad. Of course I had Romer there going on and on about watch out for this and I did this and look out for that and.. j/k

Also second the duct tape the extension tip, also pro-anti sieze. Also pro-gapping, did you check the gap? I was told by someone that Toyota plugs don't need to be gapped but I checked them anyway, didn't have to change any though.