noob to the 4runner scene

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uglyoinker

uglyoinker

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 26, 2006
Threads
31
Messages
897
Location
heber city,utah
I am a cruiser guy. I have a 87 fj60 and a 75 fj55. both fairly modified. But the wifey wanted a 4runner so we found an ok shape 94. My questions are what is the best way and where do I get what I need to get the rear of this thing level with the front or even a touch taller? It has saggy ass syndrome. Also whats the deal with every 4runner we looked at had blown cv boots? Also what is the most common problem with the rear window being broken. It doesn't work and is crooked. Falling back down on the driver side. I have heard that its 250 bucks for the motor and regulator and rear window. but if the rear window isn't broken why do I need a new one? Also I was considering replacing the whole tailgate due to some rust. I have seen a few on ebay that are complete and claim to be in working order. Has anybody had bad luck getting these off ebay? Any answers or pointing in the right direction would be helpful. Been working on landcruisers for a few years now I need to learn about 4runners.
Thanks
 
94 4Runners have a coil rear suspension. Cheap fix is is to get spacers, the right way is a new set of springs.

The CV boots are all blown because you have been looking at trucks with the ADD system. The ADD system allows for shift on the fly 4 wheel drive, but the down side is the CV shafts are turning every mile you drive. And replacing the boots is a pain, so no one does it.

The rear window sounds like one of the tracks has come unbolted from the side maybe... Does the window work from the key switch on the tailgate?

Welcome to the Dark Side! :cheers:
 
New springs? You mean stock height replacement springs because the old one have worn out? Or lift springs that are an inch or two taller? On the ADD system, is it possible to convert to locking hubs? Haven't tried the window from the tailgate with the key. It does click when you hit the button on the console. I hate the electric tailgate windows! They're retarded! My 55 has a hardly working back window also.....
 
If you are getting a click, then you probably just need to clean the relays, but try from the rear switch first. If money is an issue, you can lower the front to match just by turning 2 bolts, but ideally lift springs would be best.... Yes, you can swap locking hubs on, all you need is a set of IFS hubs, very simple job.
 
I've done many rear coil spring swaps, it's really easy. Best I've found are OME's. They will lift the rear by about an inch or so over stock height. Spacers won't cure the terrible ride of sagged stock springs.

Get yourself a set of AISIN hubs (NOT the Warns), swap them on. Then try to find someone that is doing a SAS on their truck, buy their CV shafts for cheap.

The majority of the tailgate window problems is because of the design, every time you put the window down you drag dirt into the tailgate, and this corrodes everything. It doesn't take long for the felt weatherstrip to wear out, then water gets in there very easily.
 
Some know me on the board but I thought I would give you my opinion. I am the Parts Director at Toyota of Dallas and www.TRDParts4U.com. We market ARB/OME products along with several other aftermarket suppliers.
The Second Generation 4Runner has always had the Saggy Butt issue. I have had 2 and they both needed some help. OME does make some great products and they have a some good options for the 4Runner. The setup I have used on both of mine have been SDORI Ball Joint Spacers in the front, new OME (Old Man Emu) shocks all around, OME 900 Medium Coils rear or 901 HD Coils depending on the load you carry. I think for your Wife I would use the 900 coils. I installed a Pan Hard bracket, BVP bracket and on the front suspension at the rear of the lower control arms I installed a Truss to keep the lower A-Arms from spreading which will happen if you don't address it.
Now if this is going to be just a daily daiver and you just want the rear lifted we sell a SDORI 2" Coil Spacer which will level you out. For current pricing you can visit TRDParts4U.com or send a request for some prices to info@trdpats4u.com
 
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I feel like a dummy since I don't know much in the 4runner scheme of things. But I got into the tailgate from the inside this evening and the little tracks that the wheels on the arms roll on are rusted gone....on both sides. So now what do I do? Am I back to the drawing board of replacing the whole tailgate? which would cure the rust on the outside of the tailgate also.
I looked at the trd website and when I was filling in the blanks on make model and when I got to the year it didn't have an option older than 2001. Kinda weird.
I looked into the ome coil springs and they are 75 bucks each. I saw a pair from moog for only 95 bucks. I'm leaning towards the moog which are just stock replacements for the price and because the lift is not really necessary. This runner is a commuter not a wheeler. The landcruisers are for beating up in the woods or on the rocks. Althought a small lift wouldn't hurt my feelings. But looking to try to stay on the gas friendly side of things. Which brings me to my next question. I have seen some things on downey headers. Do they improve power which I'm sure they do but by how much? Where can I get them? I ask because I saw that downey went under. This is all the questions I have for now. I do appreciate the help for sure though. Funny how landcruisers are so different yet very similar to the runner.
 
It seems the guy who first responded concerning your sag problem thinks you have leaf springs, i.e. "shackles". I corrected the sag in my '93 (coil rear springs) with air bags from Air Lift (Air Lift 1000 product descrip.) The fix cost me about $80. Mind you, that's the most basic set-up with no on-board compressor for airing up. I routed the air lines to a point close to the spare tire and increase pressure there when necessary with a short hose that has tire chucks at both ends. The need to do this is very rare however and I only adjust them in cases like towing a heavily laden trailer (I run around 16psi normally, which handles a wide range of loads nicely). I am very satisfied with the system, not only for curing the sag but also for dramatically decreasing body roll around corners (and even lane changes on the highway) that is also attributed to the worn out springs. I ordered online because local shops only wanted to sell the bags with the "fancy" stuff (compressor, remote monitoring and filling) which starts at over $200.

Installation was a couple of hours. Axle has to be lowered and springs taken out, even though installation instructions are slightly confusing on this point. They are written for a variety of vehicles and I believe the sequoia is the only one where spring removal is not necessary. Jounce bumpers (travel limiters) get cut or unbolted. I cut mine because I had trouble determining what size nut it was inside the bumper (blind reach). In any case I have no worries because I wont be putting them back in, whether I continue to run around at stock height or go to lifted springs (future plans.)

I'm also a noob to 4runners, but have lots of plans for my '93. One of the best little threads I first read here was about greasing up the steering limiter stops (4) to relieve that crazy noise made when turning sharply over obstacles or out of the driveway. If you haven't already read it, check it out.
 
toy4xfun said:
headers you could try LC Engineering
Click to expand...

I don't believe LC makes headers for the 3.0 V-6, which is what this guy is looking for. You might PM Jim Sickles, MUD name Downey, as he is the former owner of that business. I've read that they make a noticable difference, but installation is a PITA with the auto. IMO, stock replacement springs for the rear is the way to go. They shouldn't sag for a long time, unless you make a habit of heavily loading the rear.
 
Reviving an old thread here. I finally got new stock replacement moog coil springs and just put them in tonight. I totally forgot to take measurements before so I'm not sure how much improvement I got. But I don't think it was quite enough to level it out. So I'm gonna let a little steam out of the torsion bars to get it closer to level.
 
I have a feeling the Tbars are cranked up...

And I'm sorry no body told you stock front or rear (I forgot) LC 80 series springs will give you about 2" of lift... And all you have to buy is is a new panhard bar locator IIRC from Summit Racing...

Then you could have bought 4Crawlers BJ spacers to match up the front...


But if stock height is what you want, and I can't blame you, then to my understanding you did the right thing.

Everything I've bought from Moog has had "Made in Japan" written on it... And I turned down a $33 ball joint today for a (ouch) $80 Moog piece...

Not putting China krap on my truck, sorry...


Put a set of AISIN's on your truck and forget about it... DO NOT do the "band clamp" ADD block off method YotaTech has in their "Mods' :rolleyes: section...

Then you have selectable AND shift-on-the-fly 4WD...

And the headers LC sells are to my knowledge Downey headers... Or at least they look just like them. NorthWest off road is another vendor for V6 headers...
 
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