Non-rear AC/Heater lines search

[MTKID]

I would like to eliminate my rear AC/heater, and rather than just cap the lines, I thought maybe there would be the lines OEM lines for a model that never came with it. Anyone know those part numbers or where to search?

TIA

 

[CharlieS]

I'd start by identifying which models didn't come with AC (like the Australian 2019 LC200 GX turbo diesel, for example), and then hit up the parts listings on a global site like Partssouq.

Maybe this one? Electrical | Toyota LAND CRUISER VDJ200R-GNMAZ GRJ200,URJ20#,UZJ200,VDJ200 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq - https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/parts?c=Toyota&ssd=%24%2AKwFjV0ZDOhV6DBsxDSVFVzsvDwgWZ2hlZHZoWipyI3Rrcg13JCR5c2pkKy8mPjFIfTgyM3VscXJgbDk1LGFye3ZzOSN3MiY4AREFFxxye3Uqa3lzand0BxQdZzg2SHwXGRsQCnV5KCRsMnJtdnNmY2NfJDZxcjE_NXJtdTA_ZwAAAACcsUPk%24&vid=0&gid=782&q=

If you change your mind, I've capped them on a prior LC (100 series) and it worked well. There are some great aluminum block off caps made just for this. Not sure what the sizes are on the 200, but here are the part numbers for the 100:
Dorman 800-996 3/4" O.D. Line Terminator
Dorman 800-994 5/16" O.D. Line Terminator

 

[bloc]

Trucks with no rear AC are also unlikely to have the cool box, for the record.

Also note that eliminating cool box has been looked at, and I believe doing it correctly required removing the engine and transmission to get the AC lines in place

 

[cboyd]

and to add, I had a leak in the rear, which they thought was the hardline, it later was found to be a plastic elbow. They quoted that changing the hardlines required pulling the body from the frame.… so maybe capping ain’t so bad?

 

[MTKID]

I'd start by identifying which models didn't come with AC (like the Australian 2019 LC200 GX turbo diesel, for example), and then hit up the parts listings on a global site like Partssouq.

Maybe this one? Electrical | Toyota LAND CRUISER VDJ200R-GNMAZ GRJ200,URJ20#,UZJ200,VDJ200 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq - https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/parts?c=Toyota&ssd=%24%2AKwFjV0ZDOhV6DBsxDSVFVzsvDwgWZ2hlZHZoWipyI3Rrcg13JCR5c2pkKy8mPjFIfTgyM3VscXJgbDk1LGFye3ZzOSN3MiY4AREFFxxye3Uqa3lzand0BxQdZzg2SHwXGRsQCnV5KCRsMnJtdnNmY2NfJDZxcjE_NXJtdTA_ZwAAAACcsUPk%24&vid=0&gid=782&q=

If you change your mind, I've capped them on a prior LC (100 series) and it worked well. There are some great aluminum block off caps made just for this. Not sure what the sizes are on the 200, but here are the part numbers for the 100:
Dorman 800-996 3/4" O.D. Line Terminator
Dorman 800-994 5/16" O.D. Line Terminator

Thank you Charlie! That’s exactly what I needed to get me started. Now I can do some more digging

 

[MTKID]

and to add, I had a leak in the rear, which they thought was the hardline, it later was found to be a plastic elbow. They quoted that changing the hardlines required pulling the body from the frame.… so maybe capping ain’t so bad?

I was crawling underneath my rig a bit following the lines and I could see, if you needed to keep the function of the lines, you may need to have more room, but if I’m just throwing them away, then they can be cut in segments as needed to remove them.

I also have a body lift which gives me a little bit more room to work underneath in some places.

 

[MTKID]

Trucks with no rear AC are also unlikely to have the cool box, for the record.

Also note that eliminating cool box has been looked at, and I believe doing it correctly required removing the engine and transmission to get the AC lines in place

I’d love to add a cool box but not for as much as it would be. Funny how we all want the features we don’t have. The grass is always greener

 

[Omsok]

and to add, I had a leak in the rear, which they thought was the hardline, it later was found to be a plastic elbow. They quoted that changing the hardlines required pulling the body from the frame.… so maybe capping ain’t so bad?

I think I may have an issue like this. Looking for any info on where the rear heater core is,a dn how to repair a leak over the muffler. If I turn off the rear heat totally, and or turn the temp down, will that totally stop fluid from running to the rear core?

x

 

[bloc]

Is that coolant?

Rear heater core is behind the slots in the interior trim behind the rear drivers side wheel arch hump. If you get under the car you’ll see two ~5/8” aluminum lines that are the heater lines, as well as a thin and thick aluminum pair of lines with heavier duty flanges for the aircon refrigerant. There will also be a drain for the AC condensate that runs out of a rubber tube.

 

[Omsok]

Is that coolant?

Rear heater core is behind the slots in the interior trim behind the rear drivers side wheel arch hump. If you get under the car you’ll see two ~5/8” aluminum lines that are the heater lines, as well as a thin and thick aluminum pair of lines with heavier duty flanges for the aircon refrigerant. There will also be a drain for the AC condensate that runs out of a rubber tube.

Yes it is coolant dropping where rubber hose meets the metal pipe. Just started dripping yesterday. Coincidentally just after I deleted AHC suspension module by disconnecting it after having all the hardware removed.

Upon further inspection it was one of the four metal clamps OEM that hold the short bent rubber hoses to the plastic heater core, and to the aluminum (steel?) lines. One of them had rusted through and let go I guess. four dollars work of clamps later, (not to mention a lot of grease on me since it was just undercoated, and the leak is gone and the system is working properly again.

On a positive note the clamps were relatively easy to access.

In the attached photos you can see the old rusted clamp, where the clamps go, the leak, and the new stainless steel clamps installed.

 

[bloc]

Yes coolant. Just started dripping yesterday. Just after I deleted AHC suspension module. Wondering if after discoing battery to clear ECm it defaulted to rear heat on which started leak.

Shouldn’t matter. I’m unsure whether it keeps the core hot and doesn’t flow air through it, or it has a valve to shut off coolant.. but even if it does have a valve it won’t lock out that circuit, just interrupt the flow. Which means even if the flow valve is closed it would still see pressure from the rest of the system and leak.

I think you are dealing with a coincidence. With the corrosion visible in the pictures it’s no surprise you have a leak.. time to figure out where that is and address it.

Was the AHC delete caused by corrosion?

 

[Omsok]

Shouldn’t matter. I’m unsure whether it keeps the core hot and doesn’t flow air through it, or it has a valve to shut off coolant.. but even if it does have a valve it won’t lock out that circuit, just interrupt the flow. Which means even if the flow valve is closed it would still see pressure from the rest of the system and leak.

I think you are dealing with a coincidence. With the corrosion visible in the pictures it’s no surprise you have a leak.. time to figure out where that is and address it.

Was the AHC delete caused by corrosion?

Thanks. AHC electronic delete may be a coincidence, not sure at this point, have not gotten into it at all.

pump failed and suspension was toast, so went with Old Man Emu. On a positive note disco-ing the suspension module behinD the rear drivers side plastic wall moulding had the desired effect. LCD display now regiters like a land criusier or Tundra with no mention of AHC, and no AHC warning lights.

The reason I did not replace the pump is it is a high mileage older LX570 with corrosion. It is still worth saving, but I did not feel like chasing suspension problems if the pump was step one in a list of problems, and since there was no way to test the rest of the system without replacing the pump, I chose O.M.E.