No Timing Marks on Harmonic Balancer - Help (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 14, 2013
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13
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136
Location
Mount Pearl, Newfoundland
Hey folks,

I'm preparing to install a DUI distributer in my 40 this evening. My old mechanical distributer crapped the bed on me about 2 weeks ago so I decided to go with a DUI.

Today I was prepping for the job which I was hoping to do tomorrow and when I had a look at the harmonic balancer It appears there are no timing marks at all on there so I can find TDC on #1.

Anyone know of any tricks so I can figure this out after installing the new distributor?

Motor is a 1975 2F. Ran well before the old distributer s*** the bed.
 
Hey folks,

I'm preparing to install a DUI distributer in my 40 this evening. My old mechanical distributer crapped the bed on me about 2 weeks ago so I decided to go with a DUI.

Today I was prepping for the job which I was hoping to do tomorrow and when I had a look at the harmonic balancer It appears there are no timing marks at all on there so I can find TDC on #1.

Anyone know of any tricks so I can figure this out after installing the new distributor?

Motor is a 1975 2F. Ran well before the old distributer s*** the bed.

The timing marks are on the flywheel behind an access cover near the starter.
 
There is a line for tdc and a bb for 7 degrees btdc on flywheel. Access slide cover located above the starter. Sometimes hard to spot the line. Find the bb and the line is just before it. Paint them, I had to take bottom flywheel cove off to find and paint mine. Now, easy to time with light. Make sure that the new dizzy seats all the way as it drives oil pump. Lots of info on here. Good luck!
 
On my 74 bell housing, I remove the lower cover to rotate the engine by hand to find the BB and the TDC mark as mentioned above. I paint them with whiteout, or something. Then I put a mark on the very bottom of the flywheel so the timing mark is quick to find as I rotate the engine. Makes it quick for the "next time"...
 
On my 74 bell housing, I remove the lower cover to rotate the engine by hand to find the BB and the TDC mark as mentioned above. I paint them with whiteout, or something. Then I put a mark on the very bottom of the flywheel so the timing mark is quick to find as I rotate the engine. Makes it quick for the "next time"...


S
The timing marks are on the flywheel behind an access cover near the starter.
Thank you sir!!
 
On my 74 bell housing, I remove the lower cover to rotate the engine by hand to find the BB and the TDC mark as mentioned above. I paint them with whiteout, or something. Then I put a mark on the very bottom of the flywheel so the timing mark is quick to find as I rotate the engine. Makes it quick for the "next time"...


Thanks a million. I was a bit panicked when I didn't see any marks up front (Too much time working on SBC's on my previous rides). After seeing all your responses I did a search, which I should have done in the first place, and found a couple good threads on setting the timing during a dizzy install. They even have pictures which it seams is the only thing I can read...
:poop:
 
Needs to be set so rotor points to number 1 when on a compression stroke and both valves are closed. Easier to check with valve cover removed.

Thanks, I'll probably just bug a friend to turn the key while my thumb is over #1. My luck I'd wreck the valve cover gasket and then I'd be waiting another 4 weeks for parts to arrive out to the boonies where I live...
 
Check, double check, and triple check that the distributor gear is lined up with the oil pump gear and the distributor is fully seated. Then watch for oil pressure when you fire it up... It should almost go without saying, but I don't want your next thread to be titled, "Where can I find a good used 2F because my motor seized due to lack of oil pressure?". :D

It's nothing to be too worried about, it doesn't happen often, you just don't want to be the lucky one.
 
You're gonna have to get lucky to get it on the TDC mark by bumping the key. Those marks fly by that window so fast you may never find them. With all the plugs out and in high gear you can push, pull or rock the vehicle by hand & turn it over slowly. Or use a wrench on the balancer nut. Some folks say they can grab the belts and pull it over.
 
I couldn’t find mine by bumping the starter, but I was alone. So I turned the motor by hand from underneath, as I mentioned above, until I found the marks from below. I can see maybe 20% of the flywheel from that position. Then hand rotated it “about that much” until I could see the TDC then BB in the window. I’ve got over 150 psi in my cylinders and no problem turning the engine from below using the flywheel, even with the spark plugs in.
 
I hope your old dissy is still installed... if so, follow the DUI instructions and mark where the rotor points, before and after you pull the dissy and disengage the gear... they stab the dui, with the rotor pointing at your second mark... as it seats fully, the rotor should point to the first mark.

As John said, be SURE your DUI fully seats, flush to the block... use an inspection mirror to be sure.

If the DUI doesn’t seat fully, make SURE it has a Toyota gear. This was an issue early-on. But, unless you ordered the wrong DUI, it should be correct... assuming you bought it new. Running the wrong gear is a BAD thing. Not pumping oil, because you’re not in the slot is a BAD thing.

I don’t know your ‘75, but you probably know the DUI requires full battery+ voltage. If your ‘75 is similar to my ‘78, the small BY wire is keyed.

I triggered (86) a relay, using the small BY. Grounded 85. Fed battery+ to 30 and sent full voltage to DUI from 87.

DUI eliminates coil, ballast resistor and igniter, while replacing dissy.

I run Denso (3013) W14EXR-U plugs, gapped at .050”, using DUI LiveWire plug wires. Mine is vacuum advance and timing is set at ~12*BTDC
 
I just remembered. On my DUI from Performace Distrubuors, a hard fiber washer that came with it was required. Without the washer and with the tip inserted into the oil pump the flange on the dizzy would not touch the block. There was a slight gap. The flat spot on the shaft isn't very long and without the washer, the hold down bolt and clip will put bad pressure on the pump and the bearings of the dizzy. Someone here not long ago had the tip shear off and the engine seized. He got his dui on ebay. I'll try to find that thread.
 
Here it is. The actual cause wasn't yet determined but the thread may shed some light on the DUI install. If you get the dizzy from Performance Distributors it will include explicit instructions on it needing to be fully seated and explains the washer.
'Link" Where did your DUI come from?
 
Check, double check, and triple check that the distributor gear is lined up with the oil pump gear and the distributor is fully seated. Then watch for oil pressure when you fire it up... It should almost go without saying, but I don't want your next thread to be titled, "Where can I find a good used 2F because my motor seized due to lack of oil pressure?". :D

It's nothing to be too worried about, it doesn't happen often, you just don't want to be the lucky one.
Will do, much appreciated.
 
Here it is. The actual cause wasn't yet determined but the thread may shed some light on the DUI install. If you get the dizzy from Performance Distributors it will include explicit instructions on it needing to be fully seated and explains the washer.
'Link" Where did your DUI come from?
I got mine through Summit Racing but I’m pretty sure it came direct from Performance Distributor. I’m reading the instructions over and over again right now. Thanks for the help!!
 
I hope your old dissy is still installed... if so, follow the DUI instructions and mark where the rotor points, before and after you pull the dissy and disengage the gear... they stab the dui, with the rotor pointing at your second mark... as it seats fully, the rotor should point to the first mark.

As John said, be SURE your DUI fully seats, flush to the block... use an inspection mirror to be sure.

If the DUI doesn’t seat fully, make SURE it has a Toyota gear. This was an issue early-on. But, unless you ordered the wrong DUI, it should be correct... assuming you bought it new. Running the wrong gear is a BAD thing. Not pumping oil, because you’re not in the slot is a BAD thing.

I don’t know your ‘75, but you probably know the DUI requires full battery+ voltage. If your ‘75 is similar to my ‘78, the small BY wire is keyed.

I triggered (86) a relay, using the small BY. Grounded 85. Fed battery+ to 30 and sent full voltage to DUI from 87.

DUI eliminates coil, ballast resistor and igniter, while replacing dissy.

I run Denso (3013) W14EXR-U plugs, gapped at .050”, using DUI LiveWire plug wires. Mine is vacuum advance and timing is set at ~12*BTDC
Old sissy is still installed. Just getting ready to pull it out now after I mark it, then after it’s out as you said.

I’m also using a 30amp relay. I’m actually following a post HawkGunner posted a while back.

03348BB3-0134-4FB5-9429-46B7E5C2A703.jpeg
 
Do any of you guys know which wire might be my tach? One is going to a nut on the old dizzy (looks like crap) the other is a nice looking green one going to my igniter. I’m thinking the green?

566A45FD-A5AC-47BD-B6D9-5A5A5C901A2C.jpeg


6EE097AD-7970-444C-919C-7B9DE0B0976F.jpeg
 
I got mine through Summit Racing but I’m pretty sure it came direct from Performance Distributor. I’m reading the instructions over and over again right now. Thanks for the help!!
Yup! The one from Summit comes from Performance Distributors. Did you happen to get the "Live Wires"? My new Belkin wires from my old dizzy wouldn't fit the cap on the DUI.
 

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