No Running lights or interior lights

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A 5amp jump isn’t insane.
A 5 amp increase in a 10 amp circuit is 50% increase in current.
Yes, car makers likely design in a safety margin to allow for a small discrepancy in fuse performance.

If you think Toyota put 50%-100% more copper into every circuit in the millions of cars they make, then a 5 amp increase in the fuse you used isn't the thing that makes you look insane
 
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They have a nice little breaker set you can get that will help you find if you still have a short. They might still be a bit pricy. Knock off power probes I think can help with that too.

Yeah undo the last wiring you did and see if you have any burn marks near it.

For reference just some of the harness work i have had to do.
Post in thread 'BluezClues Build '79 RN37 Pickup' Builds - BluezClues Build '79 RN37 Pickup - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bluezclues-build-79-rn37-pickup.1246417/post-15522820

With a voltmeter and vehicle off you should still see the short happening if you are checking for continuelity to ground from the Fuze blade. That way you can see it stop showing a connection when you finally disconnect the part that is the culprit.
 
And right there is why I never let anyone touch any electrical on my truck. Lotsa luck.
Oh I hate interior electrical work because it’s a such a tedious task. Many small wires to accidentally pinch or you have a loose wire. But that’s why I’m going to college so I can get better at electrical diagnostic
 
:popcorn:

I guess your shop teacher taught you about wiring too

i know this ain't a Toyota part, but I think you might have a use for it . . .

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You act like I was planning on leaving the fuse in its place as a fix. I’m stupid but not brain dead. If I plug in a higher amp fuse and leave it for a second and it ruins my wiring, then I’ve got more issues than I thought
 
Will do boss. I need to check everything out on it
I am someone who has gone over Toyota's wiring very closely while doing my LS Swap.

I am always very surprised how light the wiring is for a given load and length of the circuit.

GM wiring is the same way for their engines. 0.5mm² (20 AWG) is fairly common for both makes.

They are very well engineered to carry a given load for a given distance. Fuses are their to protect the wiring from a larger load.

You know what I wouldn't do? Increase the load and expect good things to happen.

In all my years, I have never installed a larger fuse to test a circuit.

You know what you do? You test the resistance on a circuit with the Ohm function of your multimeter. Test for continuity end to end. If it is a short, test against GND. No power? Test against PWR.

This will tell you everything you need to know without potentially causing damage to the harness.
Thanks boss, I’m pretty sure I know where it’s at but that’s just a thought, it could be something worse than I thought and I might have a deeper issue on my hands. don’t want to replace the wiring harness because that means I have to remove the dash and undo a lot of stuff, and not to mention the cost of said harness
 
So I tore apart my dash yet again and unplugged the radio. Put a 15A fuse and it didn't blow. Plugged in the radio and still nothing. The radio shuts off if I wiggle the plugs so that's an issue. Gotta love electrical
 

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