Guess it's not super cheap 89.99 ... They do have coupons for 20 % off. You can download the coupon app in the Google play store. Not sure if ios has it.
I'll upload a screenshot of one just in case
No heat, overheating and coolant full??
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Guess it's not super cheap 89.99 ... They do have coupons for 20 % off. You can download the coupon app in the Google play store. Not sure if ios has it.
I'll upload a screenshot of one just in case
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Thanks for the coupon, I actually ended up borrowing the kit instead. I know I should pressurize the system to whatever the radiator cap says, however how long should I let it sit?
Well if the needle doesn't immediately start dropping and you have good pressure like the 15-20 then I would let it sit overnight.
For roughly $40 you can also get the exhaust gases test kit from O'Reilly and test the cooling system for exhaust. If it's positive, it's the HG
ppc
M Go Blue
Have you checked that your belts are still intact and properly tensioned?
Water pump isn't running?
That would not explain the coolant loss .. sure weeps some but he would've seen that on the floor the other day
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Update: Before doing the coolant pressure test I wanted to make sure my original radiator wasn't clogged so I took the bottom hose off (at the thermostat) and also the top hose. This is when things took a turn for the worse, I saw that the inside of my radiator hoses had a thick brown rock like layer on the inside. However the radiator was still letting water flow. I then put everything back together and used the pressure tester which showed that my coolant system wasn't holding any pressure. I thought I might be using it wrong or didn't put the hose clamps back on correctly so I checked everything and went back to testing the system. This time the system held pressure (started at 17psi), only dropping 2 psi over a 50 minute timeframe. I thought this was a good sign so I proceeded to fill the system to turn the truck back on and see what it would do.
I turned it on and also turned the hot air on. From the front the engine sounded like it was running fine, however from the back it was smoking more than regular and you could also hear and see puffs of smoke every so often, sounded similar to a misfire. After letting it warm up I saw that the heat was working again and also that it wasn't overheating. All good signs. I turned if off and thought about everything I had discovered. I wasn't confident that the truck was okay by any means. Lastly I checked the dipstick and sure enough there was milkshake (coolant/oil) on it, I checked under the oil cap and there was milkshake on that too.
Needless to say, I'm fairly positive that my headgasket is blown. From what I found/experienced I believe that exhaust gasses were/are getting into the coolant system and causing the truck to overheat. Eventually causing the coolant to also mix with the oil. The way I look at it is that at least it happened a couple miles from my home and not while off-road or on a trip somewhere. I also purchased the truck for 4.2K (triple locked w/160,000 miles) so even if I spend the money to fix it I'll still come out on top if I ever decide to sell it (not likely).
All in all it looks like I'll be doing my first head gasket job on a vehicle in the next couple of weeks. First I'm going to order an FSM and read through it. Then I'll start ordering parts and getting everything ready for the surgery. I'm also planning on replacing the radiator and water pump. I've already replaced all the heater hoses/PHH with Gates green stripe and Breeze hose clamps. Any other things I should replace while I'm in there??
Thanks to everyone that commented and helped out.
I turned it on and also turned the hot air on. From the front the engine sounded like it was running fine, however from the back it was smoking more than regular and you could also hear and see puffs of smoke every so often, sounded similar to a misfire. After letting it warm up I saw that the heat was working again and also that it wasn't overheating. All good signs. I turned if off and thought about everything I had discovered. I wasn't confident that the truck was okay by any means. Lastly I checked the dipstick and sure enough there was milkshake (coolant/oil) on it, I checked under the oil cap and there was milkshake on that too.
Needless to say, I'm fairly positive that my headgasket is blown. From what I found/experienced I believe that exhaust gasses were/are getting into the coolant system and causing the truck to overheat. Eventually causing the coolant to also mix with the oil. The way I look at it is that at least it happened a couple miles from my home and not while off-road or on a trip somewhere. I also purchased the truck for 4.2K (triple locked w/160,000 miles) so even if I spend the money to fix it I'll still come out on top if I ever decide to sell it (not likely).
All in all it looks like I'll be doing my first head gasket job on a vehicle in the next couple of weeks. First I'm going to order an FSM and read through it. Then I'll start ordering parts and getting everything ready for the surgery. I'm also planning on replacing the radiator and water pump. I've already replaced all the heater hoses/PHH with Gates green stripe and Breeze hose clamps. Any other things I should replace while I'm in there??
Thanks to everyone that commented and helped out.
Good luck. FSM lays it out very well. Take your time if can. Get the full engine gasket kit if you can. You will get to replace quite a few hard to get to gaskets while doing this. Get new OEM head bolts. Not that you have to but inspect/ replace timing chain and slippers. I would consider replacing all the vac lines if brittle, fuel filter, and wrap injector wiring harness with heat tape.
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Thanks for the tips. Do you happen to know the difference between the full engine gasket kit (04111-66036) and the head gasket kit (04112-66036)? Or is there a specific reason you recommend getting the full engine gasket kit?
Sorry I don’t know all the differences. I wanted to do my gaskets on PS, oil pump, front crank seal, oil cooler, intake and exhaust, etc. it’s been a while since I did it. I think it also came with valve seals and injector orings, chain tensioner, egr, water pump.
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No worries, I'll do some searching and see which one would be best for me. I actually purchased the parts for the oil pump seal job last week, and have also already replaced the distributor o-ring, valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, and PCV gasket. So it might be better, for me atleast, to get just the head gasket kit.
Yea. You should be good. Dealer also sells single gaskets which be better to source as needed.
You got lucky apparently after doing your pressure test, finding it leaked down, then you started it without pulling the spark plugs.
You could have very likely hydraulic a cylinder which bends rods, cracks heads, and really blows out head gaskets. I had this happen on a SBC and when I went to try to start it, the started stopped and wouldn't turn it over anymore. Cost me $1500 to have it all remachined, rebalanced, and then I had to put it back together again, only to find out that the yahoo that rebuilt the heads cut into the water jackets when installing new seats. So I got to do it even AGAIN, and did the SAME DAMN THING because as I filled the cooling system the first time, the coolant ran out the seats into the cylinder and I had no way of knowing.
Replace ALL rubber hoses, front main seal, oil pump seal, PS hoses, and may as well do a new radiator or at the very least have that one boiled and rodded, but a 97 has the plastic tanks....buy a new one from Toyota.
Flush your heater cores.
Maybe replace the steel lines to the rear heater or do the lines bypass.
New water pump
Alternator upgrade
Send your injectors out to be rebuilt possibly. There has been some yay/nay on that recently. If it has sat a LOT prior to your ownership, then it may be worthwhile. Witchhunter or others work well.
Rewrap your wiring harness by the EGR. Check it for broken / melted wires before wrapping.
Add a supercharger or turbo.
Oil cooler seals and flush it.
You could have very likely hydraulic a cylinder which bends rods, cracks heads, and really blows out head gaskets. I had this happen on a SBC and when I went to try to start it, the started stopped and wouldn't turn it over anymore. Cost me $1500 to have it all remachined, rebalanced, and then I had to put it back together again, only to find out that the yahoo that rebuilt the heads cut into the water jackets when installing new seats. So I got to do it even AGAIN, and did the SAME DAMN THING because as I filled the cooling system the first time, the coolant ran out the seats into the cylinder and I had no way of knowing.
Replace ALL rubber hoses, front main seal, oil pump seal, PS hoses, and may as well do a new radiator or at the very least have that one boiled and rodded, but a 97 has the plastic tanks....buy a new one from Toyota.
Flush your heater cores.
Maybe replace the steel lines to the rear heater or do the lines bypass.
New water pump
Alternator upgrade
Send your injectors out to be rebuilt possibly. There has been some yay/nay on that recently. If it has sat a LOT prior to your ownership, then it may be worthwhile. Witchhunter or others work well.
Rewrap your wiring harness by the EGR. Check it for broken / melted wires before wrapping.
Add a supercharger or turbo.
Oil cooler seals and flush it.
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Sweet thanks for the list. I forgot to mention that before doing the coolant pressure test I also pulled out the spark plugs from cylinders 6 and 2 and they were both dry, smelled normal, and also looked normal. Regardless it probably wasn't the best idea to start it back up. I would love to add a supercharger if I could find one at a decent price, however for now I think I just need to get it running well again. Maybe I can add one in the not so distant future...
Exactly what I said not to do. Don't fill the cylinder and expect it to compress.
Good luck on the repair
Good luck on the repair
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I believe in this case there was no harm. Seeing that the sparplugs we're dry and normal I bet that the coolant was going into the exhaust and vice versa. Then later eventually into an oil
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Search on here for FSM for a hell of a deal....you can thank Trollhole later
It sounds like your system was toyota red at one point, and had green coolant added. They dont play nicely together, and create a gunk like what you described.
Get the valve grind kit, they are approx 350 dollars or so. I ordered mine from McGeorge Toyota ( i think...in Virginia). Google shopping will reveal the various vendors and prices. It will have all the gaskets, seals, etc, you will need. When you send the head to the machine shop, have them pressure test it (preferably warm), hot tank it, deck it if necessary, and replace the valve stem seals. Make sure you find a shop that is familiar with this engine and head, BEFORE you commit to them.
If you havent already done these, go ahead and add the following extra parts to the order.
Fuel filter
PCV Valve and gasket
Oil pump cover gasket and screws
Front crank seal
Water pump.
Fan Clutch (unless you know yours is working properly)
Pesky heater hose kit, or bypass kit.
Heater control valve up on the firewall
Extra green stripe or yellow stripe hose to replace all the short pieces on the firewall to the heater cores.
It hurts once by not going cheap, it hurts more than once going cheap, and having to go back into it.
Good luck
Last edited:
Search on here for FSM for a hell of a deal....you can thank Trollhole later
It sounds like your system was toyota red at one point, and had green coolant added. They dont play nicely together, and create a gunk like what you described.
Get the valve grind kit, they are approx 350 dollars or so. I ordered mine from Macgregor Toyota ( i think...in Virginia). Google shopping will reveal the various vendors and prices. It will have all the gaskets, seals, etc, you will need. When you send the head to the machine shop, have them pressure test it (preferably warm), hot tank it, deck it if necessary, and replace the valve stem seals. Make sure you find a shop that is familiar with this engine and head, BEFORE you commit to them.
If you havent already done these, go ahead and add the following extra parts to the order.
Fuel filter
PCV Valve and gasket
Oil pump cover gasket and screws
Front crank seal
Water pump.
Fan Clutch (unless you know yours is working properly)
Pesky heater hose kit, or bypass kit.
Heater control valve up on the firewall
Extra green stripe or yellow stripe hose to replace all the short pieces on the firewall to the heater cores.
It hurts once by not going cheap, it hurts more than once going cheap, and having to go back into it.
Good luck
Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online
McGeorge, not Macgregor....... I've made the same mistake....
Just fixed that, and went ahead and ordered some of the vac lines that Onur had mentioned in an old post from them today. lol
Pasted from Onur's old post. I had the larger 6mm hoses, so I just needed the 3.5mm and the pcv hose to replace a cracked on.
These are the part numbers you need. These part numbers replace every single vacuum and EVAP line under the hood. Beyond the 3.5mm ID hose, everything else will be location and duty specific.
The second number after the 10-digit Toyota part number will be the quantity you need. This will only be applicable to 8/1992-1/1998 FZJ80 trucks for the US market:
90999-92003: 8 (cut to fit)
25695-66010: 1 (formed, EGR)
95337-06020: 1 (cut to fit)
95333-06010: 1 (cut to fit)
90910-05212: 1 (formed)
90910-05217: 1 (formed)
95334-06010: 1 (cut to fit: FPR)
77795-60020: 1 (formed, EVAP)
77754-60180: 1 (formed, EVAP)
23273-66031: 1 (formed, EVAP)
77279-60020: 1 (formed, EVAP)
12261-66021: 1 (formed, PCV)
12262-66021: 1 (formed, VC ventilation)
I generally recommend replacing the check valves as well since they are stupid cheap: 90917-10049: Two for the 1993-1994 trucks; One for the 1995-1997 trucks.
Pasted from Onur's old post. I had the larger 6mm hoses, so I just needed the 3.5mm and the pcv hose to replace a cracked on.
These are the part numbers you need. These part numbers replace every single vacuum and EVAP line under the hood. Beyond the 3.5mm ID hose, everything else will be location and duty specific.
The second number after the 10-digit Toyota part number will be the quantity you need. This will only be applicable to 8/1992-1/1998 FZJ80 trucks for the US market:
90999-92003: 8 (cut to fit)
25695-66010: 1 (formed, EGR)
95337-06020: 1 (cut to fit)
95333-06010: 1 (cut to fit)
90910-05212: 1 (formed)
90910-05217: 1 (formed)
95334-06010: 1 (cut to fit: FPR)
77795-60020: 1 (formed, EVAP)
77754-60180: 1 (formed, EVAP)
23273-66031: 1 (formed, EVAP)
77279-60020: 1 (formed, EVAP)
12261-66021: 1 (formed, PCV)
12262-66021: 1 (formed, VC ventilation)
I generally recommend replacing the check valves as well since they are stupid cheap: 90917-10049: Two for the 1993-1994 trucks; One for the 1995-1997 trucks.
