No brake fluid rear, bleeding and braking problems

[4FLATS]

All, I have a strange situation with my LX470 1999

Something has been feeling strange, almost like the front brakes aren't working properly. I threw a new set of pads in about 2 months ago and all seemed well. Lately it seems like the rear brakes are doing all the stopping. The nose isn't dipping at all under braking. I just figured it was the aftermarket pads not working as well as the factory, but this weekend while pulling a small boat they all but failed on me.

So I figured I had air in the system from pushing the calipers back when I installed the new front pads.

When I cracked the front bleeders and did the old pedal, open bleeder method I got plenty of good fluid.

On the rear, I got one dribble then nothing. Press pedal, open bleeder and nothing. Both sides in the rear.


Thoughts?

BTW I am not driving it, it's is parked till this gets figured out.

 

[4FLATS]

Oh, the power of the search tool... I found this

CruiserPaul2000 said:
Thanks SNMuzj100!
Think I should flush the brake system? any tips? pump & refill????
I would flush the brake fluid since you've done most of the work already when you are bleeding. Very easy to do with an assistant.

- Key to "On". (engine need not be running)
- Assistant pumps a few times and then holds pedal down.
- Crack a bleeder (10mm box wrench) and fluid flows rapidly to the waiting jar.
- The fluid moves fast so keep the master above minimum.
- If you lose pressure close the bleeder and have the assistant pump/hold again.
- Right front, Left front, Right Rear, Left Rear.
- According to the FSM all four corners bleed the same.
- If you are going to remove a caliper to inspect or replace a pad crack the bleeder before removing the caliper as it can be much harder to turn them when the caliper is loose
- Bleeders are rated for 8ft/lbs torque. Don't over do it. Broken bleeders are common at repair shops.
- after bleeding use brake cleaner to spray fluid off the bleeder (this will make finding any leak later much easier)
- Take this chance to inspect the "rubber" portion of the brake lines
- Before filling the reservoir to "max" release pressure on the system.
- Key to "off" and pump pedal 40+ times until the stroke is lighter and longer.
- Then fill to "max" line.

Now to clear the ABS components you need to go find a road where you can activate the ABS a couple of times. this should mix the Fluid from the ABS channels with the rest of your fluid. This will not flush the old fluid totally out of the system but will ensure that the fluid in the critical ABS components is at least as good as the rest of the system.

The hard-core (not me) could then flush again to ensure the cleanest fluid possible.

Based on what I've read I would choose from the following fluids:
1. Toyota Brand DOT3 - Conservative choice for seal/master cylinder compatability - may be pricey/hard to find
2. Valvoline Synpower Dot4 - Higher performance at low price - readily available - should be fine $6/QT
3. ATE Super Blue Dot4 - Highest performance - $10/Liter - manufacturer says only needs flushed every three years - blue color makes flushing easy to see. (same as ATE Typ 200 only blue) - may have to order online