More due in 1-2 weeks.
Nitro Upper Control Arms
- Thread starter just differentials
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More due in 1-2 weeks.
If you have the old style Uniball arms from several years ago, we do offer replacement bushings / uniballs, but they will not except ball joints. If you would like to upgrade to the latest type arms with rubber bushings and ball joints, please contact info@justdifferentials.com and we can sell you a new set at a discount.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
@justdifferentials Ok dumb question and maybe this for a different thread, but curious about your guys CV Axles for the 100 series.
Question is... yours are the only ones on the market that hit a price point between OEM and the cheap-o chinesium auto parts store brands. But you still have a disclaimer that they are not meant for offroad usage or for lifted vehicles (what 98% of us do with our trucks). Will you guys plan to offer something more robust? Or is there something that makers your axles better than the auto parts store ones that cost 1/2 as much??
This is coming from someone that will be pulling the trigger on axles in the next month or so here.
Question is... yours are the only ones on the market that hit a price point between OEM and the cheap-o chinesium auto parts store brands. But you still have a disclaimer that they are not meant for offroad usage or for lifted vehicles (what 98% of us do with our trucks). Will you guys plan to offer something more robust? Or is there something that makers your axles better than the auto parts store ones that cost 1/2 as much??
This is coming from someone that will be pulling the trigger on axles in the next month or so here.
Nobody knows. If someone has one, take some pics of it and I could do my best to compare. I have on hand old OEMs, a couple junked cheap-o Cvs(2 cheap o + 1 rebuilt).
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Obviously I will let them answer this question more accurately, but I bet they state that due to liability reasons. To be fair OEM axles are not "meant for offroad use or for lifted vehicles", but us 100 series owners still use them for those reasons. Think about it - if they did say they are good for offroad and lifted trucks, and you snapped one while going down an incredible rough trail or installing a 2.5" lift, would that company then be liable for damages or be required to replace it under warranty? They probably just want to avoid the technicalities of stating something is intended for offroad use or use outside of their intended range.
Kinda my thought on it as well.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
I ordered mine last week, was told they wouldn't be here until the end of April.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Nice dude... you will have to attach come pics when you get them and when they are installed.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yeah I get that... pretty much same for everyone I am sure. But I still refer to my question of what makes their axles better than the cheapo? I could understand if they were their own design that added Chromoly to the axle shaft or something to that sort. They are truly the only NEW middle ground that I have come across (price wise) so just trying to get an idea. However, I am the guy that researches EVERYTHING and rarely impulse buys or just buys something because it is "XYZ" big name brand.
Does anyone have the instructions that came with the arms? My 99 I bought a week ago has them on it but I have no information on these apart from the website. Which doesn't give me much
It is my understanding that there have been a few revisions to the Nitro UCAs over the years. The first question would probably be which ones do you have, and the second would probably be what are you trying to do? In my experience, once they’re installed, there’s really not much to do, other than grease the zerks and use the factory caster/camber adjustments.
I have the generation with the red poly bushings and zerk fittings for the bushings and BJ. Not sure exactly which one that is. And I wanna know if there are any alignment correction options for it. I'm doing the front bearings (hoping it stops my slight left pull) when the parts come in but Schwab's says the caster is too far out and the bearings won't straighten it out
Those UCAs should have some amount of fixed caster (3*?) built in, but unlike the SPC UCAs, there is no additional adjustment, other than what is provided by the factory eccentric bolts.
In my experience:
Lack of caster makes the steering nervous and the wheel doesn’t want to return to center.
Excessive caster makes the steering heavy, and fights to return to center.
(Neither of which match your “slight pull to the left” complaint.)
Before you toss the Nitro UCAs, for the SPC UCAs, you might want to figure out exactly what is going on.
What exactly, does the guy doing the alignment, say the cause is for the pull to the left?
Is it one side or both sides where he has an issue?
What is the measurement from the center of your front hub to the bottom of your fender? (The Nitro UCA is built to correct caster for an expected amount of lift, if you’re close to stock, you may not be able to dial out enough caster, if you’re too high, you may not be able to dial in enough caster.)
I’ve got a vehicle with SPC UCAs, another with the same Nitro UCAs that you describe, and yet another with the Trail Tailor UCAs. I have my own personal preferences on what I prefer, but I don’t dislike any of them enough to justify replacing one with the other, and they are all capable of bringing the alignment into spec, unless the lift is at the extremes or you have other issues.
Anyone recognize this good looking 100 Series that was recently at Stellarbuilt?
It's got a few Nitro products on it including our new Upper Control arms. The UCAs are in stock and ready to ship if anyone is looking to upgrade before the wheeling season gets into full swing.
Nitro Upper Control Arms Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series
Nitro Upper Control Arms Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Serieswww.nitro-gear.comView attachment 2201568
- The arms are 100% BOLT-ON
- Heavy Duty Grease-able Sealed ball joint offers higher misalignment than OEM, and lasts much longer than uniball type arms, and no squeaks!
- Removable Billet ball joint Top Cap
- OEM style Rubber bushings for lower maintenance, quieter, less vibration and no squeaks!- Heavy wall tubular design provides more strength versus the flimsy OEM stamped steel arms.
- Lower profile than OE, thus providing additional clearance for larger tires, and/or larger/ longer shocks.
- 3 Degrees additional caster.
- Will work on stock height vehicles as well.
View attachment 2201566
View attachment 2201567
View attachment 2201569What the life span of the rubber bushings? So instead of greasing them, they are replaced?
do these UCAs accept 555 ball joints?
Following up with this thread as i’ve been put through the ringer with these UCAs the last couple days. I ordered new ball joints from Nitro and received Tacoma ball joints. After alot of back and forth Nitro sent the correct ball joints overnight. The ball joint that came installed in the upper control arm was stamped with part number 3841HD-E22K. The new, correct ball joint that I received is stamped TLC – E22K.
I saw somewhere that Tundra ball joints are used in these. I tried a Moog ball joint in the arm meant for a 2010 Tundra. It fit but didnt inspire confidence to drive the vehicle. Before nitro had corrected the mistake, I reached out to Roadsafe/Blackhawk in Australia. As others have suspected, the nitro arms are made by Roadsafe. After speaking with Roadsafe, they let me know that OEM, 555 ball joints, or the Roadsafe 3841HD ball joint would fit in these arms. I also reached out to Dobinsons to see if their UCA was made by Roadsafe, which they confirmed as true. Interesting considering the Dobinsons sell for twice the price with a 555 ball joint instead of a Roadsafe Ball j.
I also measured the Nitro arm ID, Moog tundra joint OD, original Nitro/Roadsafe joint OD, new Nitro/Roadsafe joint OD, and 555 joint OD using a s***ty HF digital caliper. Here is what i measured:
Newest style Nitro UCA:
New Nitro/Roadsafe ball j:
Original Nitro/Roadsafe ball j:
Moog tundra joint:
555 100/200 series joint:
I saw somewhere that Tundra ball joints are used in these. I tried a Moog ball joint in the arm meant for a 2010 Tundra. It fit but didnt inspire confidence to drive the vehicle. Before nitro had corrected the mistake, I reached out to Roadsafe/Blackhawk in Australia. As others have suspected, the nitro arms are made by Roadsafe. After speaking with Roadsafe, they let me know that OEM, 555 ball joints, or the Roadsafe 3841HD ball joint would fit in these arms. I also reached out to Dobinsons to see if their UCA was made by Roadsafe, which they confirmed as true. Interesting considering the Dobinsons sell for twice the price with a 555 ball joint instead of a Roadsafe Ball j.
I also measured the Nitro arm ID, Moog tundra joint OD, original Nitro/Roadsafe joint OD, new Nitro/Roadsafe joint OD, and 555 joint OD using a s***ty HF digital caliper. Here is what i measured:
Newest style Nitro UCA:
New Nitro/Roadsafe ball j:
Original Nitro/Roadsafe ball j:
Moog tundra joint:
555 100/200 series joint:
So funny I was just trying to figure this same thing out thanks for posting up your experience. I will probably need to replace my old style Nitro UCAs soon and have been looking at the Blackhawk/Dobinson/Nitro option. I reached out to Mill Creek Overland who is a US supplier of the Blackhawk units and he wasn’t totally sure since he said they haven’t yet had to replace a ball joint in their shop on these arms (good sign), but he though it was the 100/200/GX unit which reassured me since it’s probably a better part than what’s in the Tundras. FYI the Blackhawk units are super cheap compared to Nitro and especially to Dobinson.
millcreekoverland.com
Black Hawk 4x4 Upper Control Arm (Land Cruiser 100 Series)
The Black Hawk 4x4 upper control arm is made from high-grade steel and featuring a durable finish, it offers superior durability with superior handling. Enjoy greater stability and responsiveness when you upgrade your 4x4 with the Black Hawk Upper Control Arm. UCA3841H fits Land Cruisers...
millcreekoverland.com
