Nitro Gear & Axle diffs (1 Viewer)

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Sep 17, 2019
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Location
Scotland
Instead of fitting locking diffs to my VDJ79, I'm looking at fitting Nitro Gear & Axle Helix/Helical type LSD's front and rear.

They seem cheap compared to other brands so my query is really are these things good quality? I probably don't need full on lockers, so justifying the expense of those will require some man maths, the LSD's however are quite affordable, even with shipping to Scotland.

Anyone running these that can offer their advice/experience/opinion?
 
I don't know if you have seen this video:

Obviously its a marketing video but I think it shows the best demonstration of the Torsen on a 4x4 in real world I have seen on YouTube.

I don't think they are any less/more expensive than Harrop TrueTrac: Detroit Truetrac | Toyota | 8" | Front | 30 Spline - https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/products/performance-driveline/detroit-harrop-truetrac/detroit-truetrac-toyota-8-front-30-spline This is $800AUD which equals roughly $600USD so same ballpark. For some reason Harrop never made models suitable for the Toyota 9.5" diff.

The Nitro Toyota 9.5" rear worm diff model is new in that I sent an email to them in May 2020 and it didn't exist so don't expect too much information.

Based on that video alone I recon front and rear would be awesome in a 79 - Im thinking about doing the same for my HDJ78 (in Aus).
 
I don't know if you have seen this video:

Obviously its a marketing video but I think it shows the best demonstration of the Torsen on a 4x4 in real world I have seen on YouTube.

I don't think they are any less/more expensive than Harrop TrueTrac: Detroit Truetrac | Toyota | 8" | Front | 30 Spline - https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/products/performance-driveline/detroit-harrop-truetrac/detroit-truetrac-toyota-8-front-30-spline This is $800AUD which equals roughly $600USD so same ballpark. For some reason Harrop never made models suitable for the Toyota 9.5" diff.

The Nitro Toyota 9.5" rear worm diff model is new in that I sent an email to them in May 2020 and it didn't exist so don't expect too much information.

Based on that video alone I recon front and rear would be awesome in a 79 - Im thinking about doing the same for my HDJ78 (in Aus).

Thanks Mike

I hadn't seen that video but it does seem to show the benefit of these diffs over open versions, which I currently have. I was going to convert to factory lockers but that is ££££ for no gain in unlocked mode.
 
Thanks Mike

I hadn't seen that video but it does seem to show the benefit of these diffs over open versions, which I currently have. I was going to convert to factory lockers but that is ££££ for no gain in unlocked mode.

What kind of gains are you expecting in unlocked mode? Isn’t that the whole purpose of a lockable diff? Never heard anyone concerned about this. I must be missing something? Not trying to be a jerk, seriously wondering.
 
What kind of gains are you expecting in unlocked mode? Isn’t that the whole purpose of a lockable diff? Never heard anyone concerned about this. I must be missing something? Not trying to be a jerk, seriously wondering.
With the limited slip/ automatic torque biasing it essentially locks and unlocks automatically, depending on the levels of grip available, so if you are on the black top where you normally couldn't use a full on locker, the LSD/ATB will provide extra traction when required. As the above video shows that also applies to other surfaces like gravel/ice/snow.
There is also quite a cost difference between the full on lockers and the LSD/ATB's.
 
Ah... so you are basically saying you prefer a auto locker vs a manual locker. I don’t see any benefits for a auto locker on our 70 series vs maybe on a “performance “ sedan on dry pavement, or even wet. I would rather have the benefits for off road. Of course the cost benefits of a auto locker vs a manual locker does/can come in play when making the decision.
 
Ah... so you are basically saying you prefer a auto locker vs a manual locker. I don’t see any benefits for a auto locker on our 70 series vs maybe on a “performance “ sedan on dry pavement, or even wet. I would rather have the benefits for off road. Of course the cost benefits of a auto locker vs a manual locker does/can come in play when making the decision.
I think for me the ATB or auto locker is the best compromise between performance and cost.

To get the Nitro ATB's delivered to Scotland it's going to cost £1500 all in, then bearings etc, which is another £300 ish, plus my time to fit them.

Air lockers would be around £2000 for the diffs, plus bearings etc and a compressor, then fitting.

OEM lockers would cost around £5000 all in, but that is for two complete hogs head locking diffs, factory wiring and ecu/control switch.
 
They do, but I've read that they disengage if you go into reverse or let the vehicle roll backwards?
A lot of people are putting them in 80 series. I have not studied them closely but I haven't read anything about them unlocking in reverse.

Edit: Quick google appears to confirm that they unlock in reverse and immediately relock upon going forward. I would have to think about whether or not that's an issue. Not sure I ever drove my 80 backwards locked (or at least ever needed it).
 
The crap part of the e-locker is that it temporarily unlocks after a direction change, either forward to reverse or vice versa. It's not a huge problem, but it's a part of the operation that the owner needs to be aware of so that they can expect a jerk as the diff moves through the unlocked position. Think about going back and forth to get out of a mudhole...it would not be helpful to have to deal with that characteristic.
 
The crap part of the e-locker is that it temporarily unlocks after a direction change, either forward to reverse or vice versa. It's not a huge problem, but it's a part of the operation that the owner needs to be aware of so that they can expect a jerk as the diff moves through the unlocked position. Think about going back and forth to get out of a mudhole...it would not be helpful to have to deal with that characteristic.
Is that just the Harrop e-locker, or oem as well?
 
Harrop/eaton. Toyota e-locker is a whole other mechanism.
 
Regarding the Detroit E Locker, Dirty Motorsports has a great video showing on the bench how all the various designs work . The explanation of the E Locker begins at 14:15, you can see the ball bearing and cam design that causes the slop between forward and reverse engagement:



I would be very interested to hear about anyone's experience with this new Nitro Helix Helical Gear Posi for the 9.5" Toyota.


I'm getting ready to upgrade the differentials on my 1988 FJ62, and wanted to go LSD in the rear and locking diff up front. Leaning toward a selectable locking diff up front like the ARB or the E-Locker since I hate how ratchet-type locking differentials sound when they operate (like I'm breaking something) and that lurching, jumpy feeling when they lock and unlock.

Very much looking forward to seeing the results of your build, Scott.
 

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