That's nice
Next: '77 FJ45, sure to test my sanity...
- Thread starter Mtbcoach
- Start date
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Good Gogley man. That thing is looking good as heck.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
That thare motor sure is purdy!
What are you going to do about the engine bay itself? Wasn't your truck just painted prior to purchase. Even if you can just get the engine bay painted if you don't want to do the whole truck now would be a good time to do it.
- Thread starter
- #145
It may not run for crap but it will look good while it's sitting there...
It was sprayed but I wouldn't call it "painted". The "plan" is to continue with a frame off of some manner. I wanted to get the drive train nailed down before I take on all the body work to get it ready for some fresh paint.
So, yes, it will get some fresh paint when all is said and done...
Looks great Jerry!
- Thread starter
- #147
Thanks...
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Looking good Jerry, is it safe to say you are going to stick with the Blue exterior color?
- Thread starter
- #149
Thanks and, probably not the same color. I'm still undecided yet...
Fort Knox
SILVER Star
Looks awesome man!
- Thread starter
- #151
Thanks Allen, just now seeing your post...
Getting down to the meat and potatoes of the build, fuel and air. I cleaned up the injectors today and glad I did. I found one of the caps is cracked and needs replacement for sure. I also noted that one injector is different from the others though having the same part number. Interesting...
Getting down to the meat and potatoes of the build, fuel and air. I cleaned up the injectors today and glad I did. I found one of the caps is cracked and needs replacement for sure. I also noted that one injector is different from the others though having the same part number. Interesting...
most likely a change in the OEM design that got put in when a replacement was needed.
Thank you so much for posting this! I have had an absolute blast this past six months getting to know you guys and learning as much as I can. This was the first not OBX/HAMON thread I have followed. Are there any other rebuild threads I should read?
- Thread starter
- #154
Mine got slowed down due to other "higher priority" projects but it looks like I'll be able to get back to this next week.
Here is a link to another member's build thread, I think you'll like it also...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/nc-olde-north-state-cruisers/234236-1974fj-rebuild-cruiser.html
Here is a link to another member's build thread, I think you'll like it also...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/nc-olde-north-state-cruisers/234236-1974fj-rebuild-cruiser.html
There is also Jason who had the fastest turn around time i've ever seen
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/413397-because-wife-said-i-couldnt-1973-frame-off.html
and it is also for sale
at least he still has the 43
https://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-trailers-sale-wanted/482736-1973-fj40-restored.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/413397-because-wife-said-i-couldnt-1973-frame-off.html
and it is also for sale
at least he still has the 43https://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-trailers-sale-wanted/482736-1973-fj40-restored.html
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
It'll be good to see you get back on the 45 Jerry. I am sure that you have had your fill of the FJC for now.
Not to hijack but got my build of my 45 in here also somewhere.
- Thread starter
- #158
You got that right. I've got to take the Inchworm back out, apparently, I didn't get the seal between the tranny and t-case "sealed". Oh well, I'm getting good at it...
yup, here it is...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owner...5-build-resto-thread.html?highlight=truck+bed
- Thread starter
- #159
Got myself a new tool for the garages, the excuse is...since I'll be moving into some sheet metal work and is what is best (according to all the "experts"), at least that is what I used to justify it to Regina...
Picked up the Miller Diversion 180 TIG welder. I kept getting assaulted on a regular basis from Eastwood, promoting their TIG welder for ~35% of the Miller retail. Using the same logic and justification as when I bought my Miller MIG welder, don't cheap out on the big ticket tools.
I bought the MIG from the local National Gas Co (in Raleigh, on Capital), just as I did last time, asked if they'd work with me on price compared to internets sites. He did, coming within $100 of the internet prices (~$1700-1750), just under $1800, off the $2225 msrp. Had to get the bottle and some consumables to get started but both times, they did work with me on price both times.
I ponied up for the 180 since it can be used with both 120v or 240v AC for the input with the switch of the input plug. It also comes with the foot control which the Diversion 165 doesn't. It also has the digital readout. Really easy to use since all the parameters are preset by the factory, taking away a bunch of the set up with most TIG welders.
So, now I really have to learn how to weld. I thought learning the MIG wasn't too difficult once I learned to keep track of my settings in various types/thickness of the steel so I can repeat the welds.
With this machine, I pick the material, aluminum (AC) or steel/stainless/CroMo (DC), look at the chart for the thickness, adjust the amperage into the range as advised by the chart on the front of the machine. And away we go.
I'm building one of the "tv-tools" I thought was a good idea during one of the SpikeTV Sat/Sun morning shows (I think it was HorsePower TV) where the guy built an "axle stand/dolly". What a great way to practice using the TIG welder.
I ran a few beads across some scrap 1/4" steel and welded some misc scrap together but these are my first real attempts at welds. In the axle dolly, they use 1/8" x 1" flat stock bent into this Z and welded together as the axle stand. Here is the progression as I went along, being lazy, no prep work was done on the metal, it was welded as is from my local Ace Hardware...
1st...I forgot to allow the post-flow to stay on the weld. My habit with the MIG was to just move the nozzle away when done with the weld. It is clear with this weld I got the porosity at the end of the bead due to the lack of shield gas...
2nd...same thing, not as bad because I remembered, after I initially forgot, going back with the shield gas as it cooled...
3rd...getting it figured out. The metal isn't clean and it shows in the end of the bead. But, nice and flat, a little wobbly but getting better for sure.
Sure like using the TIG, I can see the puddle so much better as well as the arc. Its a nice, straight arc, I can see where it gets the puddle started and work it along the joint, very cool. Also, no sparks/little molten metal balls flying everywhere. Much slower than I'm used to with the MIG and the settings I use, allowing much more precision.
I also bought some of aluminum pieces just to play with, one of the main reasons I wanted to get into the TIG. I wonder what one could come up with using a tubing bender, some nice 1" aluminum tubing and a TIG welder... 
Picked up the Miller Diversion 180 TIG welder. I kept getting assaulted on a regular basis from Eastwood, promoting their TIG welder for ~35% of the Miller retail. Using the same logic and justification as when I bought my Miller MIG welder, don't cheap out on the big ticket tools.
I bought the MIG from the local National Gas Co (in Raleigh, on Capital), just as I did last time, asked if they'd work with me on price compared to internets sites. He did, coming within $100 of the internet prices (~$1700-1750), just under $1800, off the $2225 msrp. Had to get the bottle and some consumables to get started but both times, they did work with me on price both times.
I ponied up for the 180 since it can be used with both 120v or 240v AC for the input with the switch of the input plug. It also comes with the foot control which the Diversion 165 doesn't. It also has the digital readout. Really easy to use since all the parameters are preset by the factory, taking away a bunch of the set up with most TIG welders.
So, now I really have to learn how to weld. I thought learning the MIG wasn't too difficult once I learned to keep track of my settings in various types/thickness of the steel so I can repeat the welds.
With this machine, I pick the material, aluminum (AC) or steel/stainless/CroMo (DC), look at the chart for the thickness, adjust the amperage into the range as advised by the chart on the front of the machine. And away we go.
I'm building one of the "tv-tools" I thought was a good idea during one of the SpikeTV Sat/Sun morning shows (I think it was HorsePower TV) where the guy built an "axle stand/dolly". What a great way to practice using the TIG welder.
I ran a few beads across some scrap 1/4" steel and welded some misc scrap together but these are my first real attempts at welds. In the axle dolly, they use 1/8" x 1" flat stock bent into this Z and welded together as the axle stand. Here is the progression as I went along, being lazy, no prep work was done on the metal, it was welded as is from my local Ace Hardware...
1st...I forgot to allow the post-flow to stay on the weld. My habit with the MIG was to just move the nozzle away when done with the weld. It is clear with this weld I got the porosity at the end of the bead due to the lack of shield gas...
2nd...same thing, not as bad because I remembered, after I initially forgot, going back with the shield gas as it cooled...
3rd...getting it figured out. The metal isn't clean and it shows in the end of the bead. But, nice and flat, a little wobbly but getting better for sure.
Sure like using the TIG, I can see the puddle so much better as well as the arc. Its a nice, straight arc, I can see where it gets the puddle started and work it along the joint, very cool. Also, no sparks/little molten metal balls flying everywhere. Much slower than I'm used to with the MIG and the settings I use, allowing much more precision.
I also bought some of aluminum pieces just to play with, one of the main reasons I wanted to get into the TIG. I wonder what one could come up with using a tubing bender, some nice 1" aluminum tubing and a TIG welder...
Very cool Jerry. That's a nice TIG welder, for sure. TIG is very difficult to get down, but once you're good at it, you will be an artist with metal.
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