Newly put together 2f won't start - timing problem?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Nice. That's gotta feel good.

Was just thinking that you might also double check and make sure that when the choke is fully engaged (i.e. choke handle in the cabin pulled all the way out) that the choke plate completely seals the carb throat - so if you push on the choke plate with your finger, you can't move it any further to seal the gap. If there is even a small (1 mm) gap, it makes a huge difference. When there is a gap there, not enough vac is created to pull the fuel in from the bowl during cranking...
My 2f has been sitting for 15 years. I have done everything I can think of, and will be installing a new coil next. Will not start. It turns over, sometimes hard cranks, sometimes pops/spits from carb. I noticed (after re-building the carb) that the choke does not fully seal off the carb throat when engaged. I tried gently pushing it and it would not budge. Got Tips for adjustment of choke plate?
 
My 2f has been sitting for 15 years. I have done everything I can think of, and will be installing a new coil next. Will not start. It turns over, sometimes hard cranks, sometimes pops/spits from carb. I noticed (after re-building the carb) that the choke does not fully seal off the carb throat when engaged. I tried gently pushing it and it would not budge. Got Tips for adjustment of choke plate?
basically:

1. is compression good in all cylinders
2. is valve clearance at spec
3. do you have spark
4. do you have fuel
5. do you have any large vacuum leaks (broken hoses, missing plugs, blown out gaskets, cracked manifolds etc)
 
Have you tried spraying Starter Fluid in the carb?
 
there are some small vacuum issues that I am working on, waiting on a check valve. Everything else checks out on the above list. Yes, starter fluid tried.

I suspect now that it is a timing issue, or maybe not on TDC. The marks on the flywheel are confusing and hard to see and maybe when I set TDC it was on the wrong mark.
 
My 2f has been sitting for 15 years. I have done everything I can think of, and will be installing a new coil next. Will not start. It turns over, sometimes hard cranks, sometimes pops/spits from carb. I noticed (after re-building the carb) that the choke does not fully seal off the carb throat when engaged. I tried gently pushing it and it would not budge. Got Tips for adjustment of choke plate?
the 2F engine manual has details on carburetor adjustment. You can download a copy of the manual from the resources tab above. Sadly, however, there is really nothing about adjusting the closed position of the choke. When the throttle is fully open, the choke should open slightly (mechanically) and there are a couple of vacuum actuators that will open the choke plate after the engine starts running and once the engine is hot. While it is good to chase something down that is not correct (I'm not saying what you are observing is incorrect, though), I doubt this is keeping your engine from starting.

My guess is that your distributor is installed incorrectly. As in you installed the distributor at TDC for the #1 cylinder on the exhaust stroke, but not TDC for #1 on the compression stroke.
 
I looked through my wet and ruined manuals and found the 1979 engine book from Toyota and was able to turn the pages (score). I am 180 or 90 out I beleive.

As for the choke plate, I left one actuator arm not connected. the one going into the lower diaphram pump. this fixed the issue.

thanks guys
65F41822-5924-4C47-A1C0-8B19C0AAF8AF.webp
 
I looked through my wet and ruined manuals and found the 1979 engine book from Toyota and was able to turn the pages (score). I am 180 or 90 out I beleive.

As for the choke plate, I left one actuator arm not connected. the one going into the lower diaphram pump. this fixed the issue.

thanks guys
View attachment 3095708
Great. Turning the flywheel 360 degress, will rotate the dsitributor 180 degrees. You would have to pull and reinstall the distributor to get it oriented as in figure 8-51 in your post. As in instruction #1, you can confirm you are on the compression stroke by removing the valve cover and checking whether both rocker arms for cylinder #1 (the first two at the front of the engine) and #6 (the last two at the rear of the engine) are loose and tight respectively.
 
Back
Top Bottom