Newly put together 2f won't start - timing problem?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Random Dan

Random Dan

10 Year
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Threads
27
Messages
379
Location
Milan, IL
So my FJ61 had an unfortunate incident involving a leaky oil pan, the end result being a scarred crank shaft. My dad had a good 2f sitting in the shop so for now we decided to put it in the 61, as that would be faster than replacing the crank in the original motor. We transferred over the carb, exhaust/intake manifold, dizzy, ac, alt, water pump, t-stat, ps, and valve cover. This weekend we finished putting it back together and and attempted to fire it up. It turns over on the starter but won't catch. When the engine is at 7 BTDC and #1 cylinder is closed the dizzy points right at the #1 wire. We verified that we're getting a spark at the end of the wire. Spark plugs were replaced recently, and had no issues on previous motor. We filled the glass on the carb half way with fuel, also tried spraying carb cleaner in the top of the carb while cranking to no effect so I don't think it's a fuel delivery issue. Both me and my dad have double and triple checked all vac lines and wiring, and neither of us can figure out what is wrong. Any help would be much appreciated.

:EDIT: Forgot to mention it has non electronic ignition, in case that's important.
 
Last edited:
make sure you don't have the distributor 180 dgrees out/backwards. you might not be actually have the correct dizzy spot. I chased that for 3 days on my block (chevy v8)
 
KWalkerM said:
make sure you don't have the distributor 180 dgrees out/backwards. you might not be actually have the correct dizzy spot. I chased that for 3 days on my block (chevy v8)
Click to expand...
We pulled the valve cover and checked that the #1 cylinder valves were closed. I may switch the spark plug wires around and try to start it again though, just to be sure.
 
ya I did that on mine too and it just didn't want to go until we retimed it and made double damn sure that it was correct. after that it was a running valve adjust since my valves were far too tight which caused stumbling.
 
his day off.

man that is tough. no ideas, not that I Have good ones to begin with

dougbert
 
Air, Fuel, Spark. Do you have compression? And just to reiterate, you are installing the distributor on the compression stroke and all your wires are in the correct order? A good healthy spark? No massive vacuum leaks anywhere? Does it even try to fire?
 
Checked all spark wires. It cranks over on the starter but there is no sign of firing. No vac leaks, did the carb cleaner spray test.
 
And when it's being cranked over, you can see fuel being jetted through the venturi in the primary?

Or, I guess, when you twist the throttle rod, you can see the fuel jetting in the primary...
 
Slow Left said:
And when it's being cranked over, you can see fuel being jetted through the venturi in the primary?

Or, I guess, when you twist the throttle rod, you can see the fuel jetting in the primary...
Click to expand...
I'd have to double-check that. Spraying carb cleaner in the top didn't get it to even try to fire though.
 
Right. That's true, if it is the flammable kind.

Hmmm. Strange.

Just wondering, the 61 runs the same 2F as the 60? What's the difference between the 61 and 60 then. 61 was a diesel?
Did you have a 2F in the 61 before you put this 'good' 2f in?

I'm wondering if it's something ridiculous, like a bad ground or a fuse (like 'engine' fuse) or bad computer (like the Emission Control Module - but hard to trouble shoot those, so I feel like I'm leading you down a dead end here...)
 
Last edited:
Doesn't FJ61 have a 3F? I thought they came out in late 84.
Either way, a 2f from a FJ60 bolts in and uses the same fuel & electrical system.
It does not have an emission computer or electronic ignition.
 
Yeah, originally had a 2F which ran fine until the oil pan started leaking. Being a JDM it didn't have the smog crap on it so we had to plug the air injection holes. It does still have EGR system though
 
dirtEJohnson said:
Also consider trying a different set of plugs. Not uncommon for a fuel fouled plug to look fine, but fail to provide adequate spark...
Click to expand...
I'll do that. They worked on the previous motor, but I guess it's possible that they got fuel or oil or something on them.
 
So a mechanic friend of ours came by to take a look at the truck today. The first thing he did was remove the #1 spark plug to verify that we had timing set on the compression stroke, which we did. So then he asked me to crank it a little so he could listen to it. And what do you know, it started right up! I have no idea why after sitting for a week it would start when it didn't before, but I'm not complaining.
 
Nice. That's gotta feel good.

Was just thinking that you might also double check and make sure that when the choke is fully engaged (i.e. choke handle in the cabin pulled all the way out) that the choke plate completely seals the carb throat - so if you push on the choke plate with your finger, you can't move it any further to seal the gap. If there is even a small (1 mm) gap, it makes a huge difference. When there is a gap there, not enough vac is created to pull the fuel in from the bowl during cranking...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom