Newfield bell ring

[landtoy80]

I have a clunk when I quick shift back and forth from R to D.
Its the backlash in the diff's.
I rebuilt the front last year. I hear the clunk in the front diff.
It could be that the rear needs to be rebuilt so there is more backlash in the rear.
As the front is tighter, it makes the noise.

Am I right in this? Does the new bearings make make the backlash less than a diff with old bearings?

 

[Photoman]

R to D clunk

Kurt,

Not necessarily. If you rebuilt the front you had to set up the backlash first, then the pinion shim for pattern. The rear uses side shims to set up the backlash, basically 6 to 8 thousanths. So, even with new bearings the backlash could be wrong, and with older bearings the backlash could still be correct.

Bill

 

[landtoy80]

Re:R to D clunk

Should there be any noise when fast shifting from R to D?
I do this with the brake on.

 

[landtoy80]

Re:Front diff clink

I put the tranny in N (with the motor off) and turned the driveshaft back and forth.
I hear the clink in the front diff.
It is a metal to metal noise.
I did have to replace the pinion seal several times as it leaked. I did this without pulling the diff.
Could I have over crushed the crush sleeve or maybe didn't tighen the pinion nut enough to seat the crush sleeve the last rime I replaced the pinion seal?

I better pull the third member and replace the crush sleeve.
Would a improper (over tight or under tight) crush sleeve make a clinking niose?

WIth the third member off can I replace the crush sleeve by just removing the pinion? Or do I need to take apart the whole diff again?

 

[RavenTai]

Re:Front diff clink

If you are going to pull it and go through setup again I would replace the crush sleeve with the solid sleeve and shims so you will not have this problem again

is there any downside readjusting the ring and pinion lash once they have worn into each other? It seams they would have to re wear until their shapes matched again

 

[Newps]

Front diff clink

How bad or loud is the clunk? I hear the same thing on mine, but it is not very loud. I do notice that when I stand on the brake firmly it is even less. I just figured it was the torque in the driveline transferring to the brakes. My brakes make a slight squeak last few feet of a stop and only when they are cold. I know the brakes are new, less the 5k on them. I am now wondering if the cluck is coming from the front diff since the PO had a complete service of the front end. Any info is appreciated. I am correct that during the front service you just unbolt the brakes, take off birds, pull axels then unbolt the third? Honestly I do not know if the axels need to be pulled do the birds. You should not have to check backlash since the third is not being taken apart?

 

[RavenTai]

Re:Front diff clink

doing a birf reapck does not require removing the third member, removing the third member requires removing the birfs and axle shafts with them

 

[Photoman]

Front diff clink

Kurt,

If you have to keep replacing pinion seals I would suspect you either have a bad or worn flange, or the pinion is moving around (bad bearings or not enough preload). Depending on how much work you want to do you might be able to take the flange off etc. and pull the bearing. It may ruin the bearing but you could then put in a new crush sleeve without pulling the 3rd member.

RavenTai,
I can't think of any downside to readjusting the backlash. I should correct something I said in my previous reply; There are shims for the backlash in the rear if you have a diff lock, otherwise there are adjusting nuts. The way I do it for a diff lock 3rd is before pulling the ring gear and spiders I put some gear marking compound on the gears and check the pattern for a reference. When I pull the ring gear etc. I make sure I watch which side the adjusting shims came out of. I then mike the shims to determine which ones they are by their thickness. Next I add the two thicknesses together to get a total shim thickness. That way when putting it back together if the backlash needs to be adjusted I change both shims (one on each side, one thicker and one thinner) to maintain the total thickness. You can get gear marking compound at many places. GM part #1052351 for a 1 oz. tube, about $7.00, or toothpaste works if you don't want to spend the bucks. I used to use lithium grease when I was young and racing, but the gear marking compound is the best. Just the way I do it. Sure there are a million ways. Gotta go.

Bill

 

[Newps]

Front diff clink

Thanks RavinTia for clearing that up. I checked the Faq's and there was no link to front end rebuild, guess I should have searched Double check it today and there is no metal clunk. Just a little squeak from the brakes when I do not have a lot of pressure on the brake pedal.

 

[alia176]

Re:Front diff clink

Kurt,

Just curious.....the "clunk" you're hearing...could it be coming from the combination slack of three diffs, older tranny and T case? Mine has similar clunk when I switch between R and D quickly. However, if I pause it in N for a second then the clunk is very minimal.

Ali

 

[landtoy80]

Re:Front diff clink

alia;
When I turn the front driveshaft within the backlash, it hear a metal clink. It is like the gears on the pinion are not touching the ring gear till during the backlash.

Photoman;
I was going to replace the cush sleeve without removing the third member but how do you remove the bearing and the oil thingy behind the bearing?
THe tool to remove the pinion bearing is very $$$

Fixed the pinion seal with FIPG pn the metal part of the pinion seal. The seat were the seal goes is where the leak was.

RavenTai;
<If you are going to pull it and go through setup again I would replace the crush sleeve with the solid sleeve and shims so you will not have this problem again>
How is the sleeve from Toyota different from the one you talk about, where do I get it?

 

[Photoman]

Front diff clink

Kurt,

To try to save the bearing I would try to fashion some sort of puller tool and it still may not save it. It I wasn't worried about the bearing I would try this slam hammer (pic) to pull it. It might ruin several screws or some other attachment might have to be made for it but would probably work if used on one side then the other. When I setup the 3rd's the pinion has to come in and out a bunch of times. I use a block of Oak to drive it out, my point being it's tight but not so tight that I need to use a press so there is hope the bearing could be pulled. Worse case the 3rd has to come out.

Bill

 

[landtoy80]

Front diff clink

Its not the front diff, its the :birf:

The noise sounds just like the old fashion back-up bell in the old dump trucks.
With the front driveshaft off I truned the pinion. It went ding, ding.
WHen I put my ear on the diff the noise was comming from the wheel.
Its the New :birf: fields
The bell of the Newfields is making the noise. There is enough slop/play in the bearings to ring the bell :bust2: of the :birf:
I had some clicking last fall. Some grinding this winter and now the ring of the bell.

I will be getting some new Newfields.

 

[landtank]

Front diff clink

[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=17534;start=msg170396#msg170396 date=1086577620]
I will be getting some new Newfields.
[/quote]

Just a glutton for punishment or do you expect something more?

 

[landtoy80]

Life time warranty

As I have the front driveshaft off I may as well get the lock-outs.
The Newfields SHOULD last longer with lock-out. :birf: :bust: :bust2:

 

[landtank]

[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=17534;start=msg170403#msg170403 date=1086578040]
Life time warranty
[/quote]

I make it a policy never to buy into that sales pitch. Seems it just means more work for me from all the do overs

 

[landtoy80]

When I got the Newfields, they were recommend.
There were no known problems at that time.
The problems started after I got them.
I found out about the lifetime after I got them.

I called CVinlimmited and said I have a problem with the 80's Newfileds.
The tech said I would have to call tomorrow and talk to the owmer Mr Stucky.
I don't know it thats a good thing or not???

 

[robbie]

Sorry to hear about this Kurt. I would return them and get you money if you can. These Newfields will leave you in the boonies some day soon with a real mess on your hands. The Joint is way too brittle and when they brake they make a mess of every thing.
There life time warrenty is only for the first one, the second one is half price and on down the line until you back paying full price. There always a catch. Christo and I both have talked to Mr Stucky on many occasions, he is always nice and there is always some one else that has misplaced the returns we have sent in. IT is always plesent talking to Mr stucky, and it may take a couple of converstations with him to get it all sorted. O yea, they have new and imporved one (if he offers them to you) that did not last any longer then the first one. good luck later robbie

 

[landtoy80]

"IF" I get my $$$ back (they are year and half old and 30k) what do I get?
I can't aford new OEM. The MAF's birf. is crap. Rebuilt is a crap shoot and short term. Used??? Not.

 

[landtank]

If you get your money back, plug up the axle tube, drop the front drive shaft, lock the center diff and open a lemonade stand.

Kurt, these trucks are what they are, seems like every time somebody tries to cheat on that they get burned.