Newbie Introduction / Purchase challenges / Ignorance Acknowledgement

[BlackLab]

Okay here goes. I am a newbie in all senses and not that mechanical so some questions may appear to be dumb. I am purchasing a LC 2004 with 128k. I am getting it for 10k, but it needs a lot of work. I would like to do all of it at the same time. I want to start with a good base car. I have priced out stuff and think I will be putting around 6-7k in it. The things i am considering are:

1) First off i want to lift it 2.5 because that seems to be the height to go to with out needing to change anything else on the car other than lift kit stuff. The kits i looked at were old man emu and bilstein lifts. I would like to use bilstein shocks because i have them now and love them. What is the best kit that has them or can i piece a kit together? I have seen something called a diff drop mentioned an the slee kits and am wondering if i am overlooking something. The other kits do not mention this. So basically, what kit should i use? Mechanic has assured me that a 2.5 lift will not do any excessive wear on the car except for lower gas mileage and power off the line. That may be dumb to but i guess i just thought maybe i was shortening the life of car or components in car by lifting it, which i was told i am not doing.

2) I found some really cool wheels that i think would look good. They are Enkei st6 gunmetal wheels. They are pictured in the link below. If the link does not work you can see them by googling "enkei st6 gunmetal photo" and the picture with the fj shows them well.

http://fatlace.com/lacedup/wp-conten...1/405A8064.jpg

They seem to come in only 17 and up. I have been told by a mechanic that if i will be offroading not that much, and do not want to hear the tires that i should get Goodrich all terrains. When i told him the lift size of 2.5 or so he recommended a 295/75. well the current stock rim is 18 inch and i cant seem to find a 295/75 BFG all terrain in anything bigger than a 16. i guess i could go to a 16 but i really want the enkei's and they dont come in below 17 i think..... i dont know how to deal with this. this could be an ignorant thing on my part. I just want to make sure i have a good tire / lift ratio. I cringe inside driving down the road when i see trucks that have messed this up.

3) I was thinking of using a Borla exhaust cat back system. It seems expensive but everyone says they are nice. I dont want to sound overly aggressive but everyone i talked to says the growl will be car appropriate and that i will love it. I also want to add a reese hide a hitch for light towing but hope that wont get in way. Is this a hot exhaust? (hahahahhaha)

4) I was adding magnaflow catalytic converters at 125 each because it needs it. will they affect power and am i shortchanging myself by not adding a more expensive set? any reccomendations on it?

5) I also am adding a timing belt because the former owner did not so am getting an ac delco kit with water pump. does it matter what king of kit i get as long as it includes water pump stuff?

6) i am adding performance rotors and ceramic pads up front. i guess you can see the rotors through the rims so for a few bucks why not add performance.

7) there is a lot of rust under the car. it was from up north. it does not seem to be so major that i should walk away from the deal, but it is something to be aware of. I am sure it will last a long time. The question that has been batted around is if it is worth putting a new undercoating on it??? Of course dealer says yes (dont those guys get kickbacks for every undercoating????) but private mechanic that will be doing the work says probably not to do it because you will trap all that is currently there underneath it. Anotehr mechanic says take care of my car and dont worry about it.

8) Lastly, I have been quoted prices for all of this by a dealer and they seem excessive. (DUHHH, right?) This car is out of any kind of warranty situation so i dont know why i would go to a dealer for any of this. The work being done that i have mentioned does not seem highly technical and i have been assured by the mechanic that he can handle it easily. He is a great guy and has over 25 years of experience on all cars. I was referred to him by an important person in the community whose car he deals with and i think he would say if it was too much.

I cant wait to hear some of your responses. I know it is a lot but if i can get some good advice i will make sure to post photos and be a fun contributor here. Have a great day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I recognize that there is probably a lot of this answered already and i have read some but i thought it would be helpful to anyone offering feedback to get a general sense where i am going with this whole thing in case they wanted to comment on my whole plan.

 

[BlackLab]

Why not just buy a 2004 that does not have a lot of rust and and doesn't need a lot of work? After it's all said and done, it'll probably be the same price as the one you're about to buy. If you priced out $6-7k of needed work, you're probably missing something and the higher that number goes up, the worse off you are in the long run. You're starting at $17k.

I know this isn't an answer to your questions, but it's worth considering. A 2004 that needs a lot of work is a 2004 that wasn't taken care of. Just my .02.

 

[BlackLab]

That is a good comment. It actually seems like it has been taken care of. I have the maintenance records, one owner etc etc. The majority of that work is cosmetic, ie-wheels, tires, lift, performance exhaust. the real maintenance items are timing belt, brake pads, cat converters. This is a good thought though, and i looked a little. The other thing is i really like the color, dark green. I could not find one like that. The former owners detailings actually showed up in maintenance records. 125k seems like really nice mileage. Thanks for your feedback.

 

[DanInDenver]

Sounds like you have plenty of discretionary funds to drop into this, IMHO though I would re-prioritize your list for where first to spend your dollars.

• Have you gotten a PPI? What did it show?
• Search baseline, basically a laundry list of PM you want to do when you first get the vehicle.
• 5) More search will reveal Mud wisdom on using OEM parts especially for this service. Search Beno for a laundry list of what other PM your mechanic can do while doing the TB & WP service.
• 6) Again a Mud search IMHO skews to using OEM pads, inexpensive and work very well

Take the above to your mechanic for pricing. With the remaining funds prioritize the rest.

 

[BlackLab]

Danindennver,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I had two PPI's done. One by the dealership and then one from the mechanic who i think will actually do the work. They were extensive and they will be doing some other things i didnt mention that are not very expensive. I will be trading some of the labor costs for some professional services (that are not very taxing) so thats another way i can afford to put in the money. I will get the OEM pads. Do you feel the same way about the exhaust? It needs a new exhaust system. Have a great day and again thanks for the reply. Love to hear more

 

[paflytyer]

So, "needs a lot of work" holds a different meaning to you and I. A lift, wheels, and bigger tires are not a "need" to most folks. They're a "want".

I think a few hours researching on this forum in the 100 series section will help you immensely. Doing a little research on lifting a 100 series 2.5", brake pads, basic maintenance, and general info.

A 2004 with 128k being sold at $10k is way underpriced. Below wholesale, below trade-in value. That normally doesn't happen to a vehicle that doesn't need work. But, if you say your mechanic...... The little old lady selling is a friend..... You have an inside deal..... Etc.

A 295/75/18 is a 35.5" tire that is almost 12 inches wide. You should do some research on that, because there are a lot of other things needed in order to make them fit.
If you're adding performance rotors and pads up front, what are you doing to the rear? This isn't a Toyota Supra, it's a very heavy Land Cruiser. In general, the rear pads actually wear faster on the rear of a 100 than on the front. Again, searching brake upgrades on here can gain you a wealth of knowledge from some very experienced people.

There are a lot of parts that should be replaced besides the water pump at 128k miles.. Again, learning a little about the vehicle will help. Some would argue that a 2004 with 128k miles that has not done the 90k service, is not a well taken care of vehicle.

I hope that helps answer some of your questions. I'm not sure how serious your post is, but I'll play along anyway. Build the vehicle to your needs/wants, not what a bunch of people on the internet tell you to buy. Or, just find one that's already built the way you like and has been truly taken care of.

 

[BlackLab]

So, "needs a lot of work" holds a different meaning to you and I. A lift, wheels, and bigger tires are not a "need" to most folks. They're a "want".

I think a few hours researching on this forum in the 100 series section will help you immensely. Doing a little research on lifting a 100 series 2.5", brake pads, basic maintenance, and general info.

A 2004 with 128k being sold at $10k is way underpriced. Below wholesale, below trade-in value. That normally doesn't happen to a vehicle that doesn't need work. But, if you say your mechanic...... The little old lady selling is a friend..... You have an inside deal..... Etc.

A 295/75/18 is a 35.5" tire that is almost 12 inches wide. You should do some research on that, because there are a lot of other things needed in order to make them fit.
If you're adding performance rotors and pads up front, what are you doing to the rear? This isn't a Toyota Supra, it's a very heavy land cruiser. In general, the rear pads actually wear faster on the rear of a 100 than on the front. Again, searching brake upgrades on here can gain you a wealth of knowledge from some very experienced people.

There are a lot of parts that should be replaced besides the water pump at 128k miles.. Again, learning a little about the vehicle might help.

I hope that helps answer some of your questions. I'm not sure how serious your post is, but I'll play along anyway. Build the vehicle to your needs/wants, not what a bunch of people on the Internet tell you to buy. Or, just find one that's already built the way you like and has been truly taken care of.

 

[Toyo72]

Here's info on the timing belt & water pump parts to use, including part numbers:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ti...t-what-else-should-i-add.824802/#post-9461776

 

[BlackLab]

Thanks for your feedback. My post was very serious. I am definitely getting a good deal. I know that. This is why i am doing some of the want stuff. I have been reading some of the OEM posts on here and doing more research as has been suggested. Again, i have the maintenance records and even the dealership could see those in the computer since it was serviced at a dealership. They said it was well looked after at every mileage recommendation. I am buying it this morning so thanks for helping. The main thing is the rust, which i may try to run out and get a third opinion on. It was a ny car. Nobody has said it was a huge problem, just that it has excessive rust. The mechanic looking at it was not overly concerned about its longevity. It sounds like you think this car is a great deal which feels good to hear. I will continue to read some of the OEM threads and welcome any more thoughts. Thanks for your help. This all came on very suddenly for me. I had never considered getting a Landcruiser but i love the idea and the deal seems great. I also had an immediate buyer for my jeep at a good price. The fact that i sound uneducated about the car is due to how quickly its coming together. Thanks again.

 

[paflytyer]

I think you misread my post. I do not think you're getting a good deal. I think you're being worked by a dealer/seller and mechanic.

 

[BlackLab]

Toyo72,
thx for timing belt and pump info.

 

[BlackLab]

I think you misread my post. I do not think you're getting a good deal. I think you're being worked by a dealer/seller and mechanic.

I am not sure i explained that right. I am not buying from a dealer. I just had them look at it for me. Subsequent to that I took it to another mechanic that we know and trust who also did a PPI on it. I am buying it from an individual.

 

[paflytyer]

I am not sure i explained that right. I am not buying from a dealer. I just had them look at it for me. Subsequent to that I took it to another mechanic that we know and trust who also did a PPI on it. I am buying it from an individual.

The mechanic that told you to put a 36" inch tire on there?

You came on here for advice, claimed the truck has a lot of rust, but not too bad of rust, needed a lot of work, but the maintinence has been all taken care of, except for the fact that the critical 90k mile service is almost 40k miles past due..... I fail to see where any of this is a great deal.

It's a great deal for your mechanic. And it's a great deal for the seller of Trusty Rusty....

 

[BlackLab]

The mechanic that told you to put a 36" inch tire on there?

You came on here for advice, claimed the truck has a lot of rust, but not too bad of rust, needed a lot of work, but the maintinence has been all taken care of, except for the fact that the critical 90k mile service is almost 40k miles past due..... I fail to see where any of this is a great deal.

It's a great deal for your mechanic. And it's a great deal for the seller of Trusty Rusty....

I am sorry if i sound disorganized but once again happening very fast. The dealer that looked at it for me said a lot of rust, but in the end said it was something to be aware of. The independent mechanic that looked at it said not to worry about it and maybe to consider undercoating it again after scraping. The mileage maintenance was done at all correct stages with the exception of the timing belt. The mechanic actually told me to put the tire that was on another car that we had a visual on which he said was a 295/75 r 16. in my ignorance i said r18 because that is what the stock size has. Again, i am brand new to this situation. I am not trying to be funny, and appreciate the comments i have received so far.

 

[hankinid]

I'm not sure even where to begin...I'm not trying to criticize, so you can take this for what it's worth...

First 3 things I'd do...go to sleeoffroad.com and read the PPI and baseline info. Take the vin number to a Toyota dealer and have them print you a service history...it will show all services done on the vehicle, plus recommended services that were declined. Get a Carfax report. Start with that.

Get the timing belt changed with the kit from Toyota. Do the water pump at the same time. Change the heater hose T's. Check the serp belt idler and tensioner for wear.

295-75 x 16's are about the largest tires you can use on a non-lifted LC without rubbing...if you're looking at 17's, go with the appropriate height and width equivalents.

Be aware that "performance" cat-back exhausts and/or mufflers can cause droning...droning can drive you nuts on long highway trips and distract you from wilderness scenery. Additional power is iffy, at best. LC engines are turned for torque...what you need off-road. HP gains are minimal, imo, for the money spent...even with headers.

If you do decide on a lift, check Slee for parts, including the stuff to lower the front diff.

Make damn sure your mechanic is competent with Toyota's...ask here for recommended techs in your area.

Price to me sounds unusually low...you can find recommended service intervals on the Toyota owners' web page. I'd also ask seller where routine maintenance was done and visit a little with the mechanic there.

Whew...

Hope this helps.

Steve

 

[Dwight S]

Hankind^^^ Gives good advice...

And I'll add to it here. You came looking for advice, and I think the best advice anyone here can give you is to advise you to make the purchase (if you really want it and set on it…) and then do the baseline maintenance BEFORE you go out and dump a bunch of money into wheels, lift, exhaust. Make sure you’ve got it up, going and dependable, then address the rust and exhaust issues if you really need a muffler.
Once you have all these things addressed, then start thinking about the upgrades you want to make. There shouldn’t be anything on the base-lining of the truck that will be thrown away when it comes to upgrades…. If it looks like there is something you want to upgrade during the baseline maintenance, and then by all means do it.
But, for your own financial sake, slow down and research everything before you jump into this. Believe me, you’ll have plenty of time to spend your money and the more research you do, the better you can spend your money instead of throwing it away.

 

[BlackLab]

I'm not sure even where to begin...I'm not trying to criticize, so you can take this for what it's worth...

First 3 things I'd do...go to sleeoffroad.com and read the PPI and baseline info. Take the vin number to a Toyota dealer and have them print you a service history...it will show all services done on the vehicle, plus recommended services that were declined. Get a Carfax report. Start with that.

Get the timing belt changed with the kit from Toyota. Do the water pump at the same time. Change the heater hose T's. Check the serp belt idler and tensioner for wear.

295-75 x 16's are about the largest tires you can use on a non-lifted LC without rubbing...if you're looking at 17's, go with the appropriate height and width equivalents.

Be aware that "performance" cat-back exhausts and/or mufflers can cause droning...droning can drive you nuts on long highway trips and distract you from wilderness scenery. Additional power is iffy, at best. LC engines are turned for torque...what you need off-road. HP gains are minimal, imo, for the money spent...even with headers.

If you do decide on a lift, check Slee for parts, including the stuff to lower the front diff.

Make damn sure your mechanic is competent with Toyota's...ask here for recommended techs in your area.

Price to me sounds unusually low...you can find recommended service intervals on the Toyota owners' web page. I'd also ask seller where routine maintenance was done and visit a little with the mechanic there.

Whew...

Hope this helps.

Steve

Thanks a ton steve. I have the carfax which actually shows all the recommended service. i called the dealership where it was all done to ask about the timing belt. Thats the one thing that showed it was recommended but owner declined. I am having that done before i drive it (except to get it there). It sounds like maybe OEM exhaust may be the best way to go from reading, but i will continue to read on it. I just took the plates off and am making the purchase today. I am totally jazzed. I know the price is unusually low. It is hard to explain but its a "friend" deal and if i say too much more about that it will just welcome more comments about it. The "deal" is what started the whole thing. I cant wait to get started on the project. I will miss my jeep but look forward to the new club!!!!

 

[hankinid]

Thanks a ton steve. I have the carfax which actually shows all the recommended service. i called the dealership where it was all done to ask about the timing belt. Thats the one thing that showed it was recommended but owner declined. I am having that done before i drive it (except to get it there). It sounds like maybe OEM exhaust may be the best way to go from reading, but i will continue to read on it. I just took the plates off and am making the purchase today. I am totally jazzed. I know the price is unusually low. It is hard to explain but its a "friend" deal and if i say too much more about that it will just welcome more comments about it. The "deal" is what started the whole thing. I cant wait to get started on the project. I will miss my jeep but look forward to the new club!!!!

BlackLab, you're welcome...

As Dwight S posted, there is nothing to the baseline process other than making sure required services are completed per the mileage on the truck.

Engines are common, more or less, to the Sequoia and V-8 4-Runners so most mechanics should have a good handle on them.

Other stuff, not so much. Toyota doesn't sell large numbers of LC's...so that's where you may need a specialist with experience.

Post pics, and welcome to the forum. I doubt you'll miss you Jeep as time passes.

Steve

 

[BlackLab]

Thanks for the welcome. The one thing i have taken to heart here so far is that i should not rush it. Just because it has been a whirlwind purchase doesnt mean i need to stay in that mode. I will post pics soon. Obviously any additional comments are totally appreciated.

 

[BlackLab]

Well I am official. I bought the LC last night. The Jeep goes bye bye tomorrow. After reading the threads here I went with Toyota parts for the timing belt and brake pad sets. Thanks Toyo72 for the list. I actually ordered the parts from Cruiserdan, a big contributor to 80 series here. He was extremely helpful in general and gave MUD discounts. his number is 800-432-6668. He definitely is an OEM guy. I spoke with Slee folks, who also know Cruiserdan, and am going to go with 2.5 medium lift. I am struggling with what to do about catalytic replacement and exhaust system. Dont want droning but thinking of cat back system, and will read up on your catalytic stock vs aftermarket. there seems to be a massive difference in price. Still working on wheels and tires. Not a good computer guy so is there a place on here that explains how to upload photo? I will immediately post LC photo so you see where started. Thanks so far