- Thread starter
- #121
FWIW, this tool helps if you're gonna install the thing yourself and use a lockstrip.
Amazon product ASIN B07YVKQH72
Amazon product ASIN B07YVKQH72
New FJ60 Windshield, Professional Install (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spike Strip
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Looks like money well spent if you are going to DIY
Not sure if anyone mentioned it in the thread but the old gasket can be removed without cutting. Old Saabs use the same type of gasket and have a much more complex windshield. It takes a couple minutes to get the gasket started but then it goes pretty fast. This way the gasket and windshield pop out together. I’ve done it with broken windshields too. Even if a new gasket is available it’s nice to save the old one for the just in case.
been reading through this thread, great load of information here. I need my 60 windshield replaced and came across this gasket
seems like the OEM one is a difficult install. that leaves the precision rubber or this one from cityracerLLC which is significantly cheaper. anyone have any experience with it?
Windshield Weatherstrip for Land Cruiser FJ60 FJ62
Windshield weatherstrip for 8/'80-1/'90 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 and FJ62, without groove for the chrome molding strip. High quality aftermarket product used by top restoration shops. Note: We recommend using this type of replacement windshield weatherstrip over OEM or one with the trim groove...
www.cityracerllc.com
seems like the OEM one is a difficult install. that leaves the precision rubber or this one from cityracerLLC which is significantly cheaper. anyone have any experience with it?
I asked my glass guy about aftermarket WS for 60s and he said they work just fine. You do lose the chrome strip. You will also need to caulk on both sides of the gasket after install, per the FSM, or it will likely leak.
This step by step walkthrough is truly a work of art. Thank you = ).Final thoughts:
Installation of the OE gasket and aftermarket lock strip was a giant GIANT PITA. Really. So much so that Dirk said he'd never do one again. Either use the OE chrome moldings or the aftermarket self-locking gasket from Precision. He was right.
If I were going to do this again I'd use the aftermarket gasket as it cuts the install time by half and it's half the cost of the OE gasket, plus you don't have the cost of the lock strip or new OE chrome moldings as you will not be able to get them out without buggering them. Quality and fit of the aftermarket gasket seemed to be the same and Dirk said he has installed dozens of them with no issues so there's really no advantage to the OE unless you insist on having it Toyota - but then you might as well get OE glass at $1100 !!
This is the part # for the aftermarket gasket as he had one in the shop.
Hope this info helps someone.
View attachment 598907
I'm set for a new windshield next week. Should I ask the glass company if they prefer to reuse the original weather-stripping or should I assume I need a replacement?
I replaced my windshield twice (15 years ago) and the guys doing it just reused the rubber seal.
If it’s not rotten, it should be fine.
Remember that some goop sealer should be applied during installation too.
My guys didn’t use goop sealer - and it leaked. Then they redid it with sealer and no more leaks. They didn’t have the official recommended liquid sealer so they just used silicon RTV. No leaks 15 years later.
If it’s not rotten, it should be fine.
Remember that some goop sealer should be applied during installation too.
My guys didn’t use goop sealer - and it leaked. Then they redid it with sealer and no more leaks. They didn’t have the official recommended liquid sealer so they just used silicon RTV. No leaks 15 years later.
OSS thanks for the response. That sounds good. I assume the chrome strip won't go back in after they replace it?
- Thread starter
- #130
I may be anal, but I'd be inclined to replace 35 year old rubber anything. Cheap insurance and it's the labor that's expensive, not so much the bits. The shop may insist on it, anyway.
As said above, insist on sealant. Some people print out the relevant FSM pages and give to installer.
As said above, insist on sealant. Some people print out the relevant FSM pages and give to installer.
They reinstalled the original stainless steel center locking trim and pieces with no damage.
Really appreciate the responses!! I guess maybe the price they gave me for the replacement factors in the time to reinstall the stainless steel trim.
Just catching up on this thread. I picked up an 82' FJ60 that did not have the chrome trim on the passenger side back window or the front window. I'm OK with leaving the chrome out of the front window; however, my OCD is fighting me on having the back windows with one with and one without chrome.
I ordered some trim that arrived, it's used but not too beat up.
Has anyone installed these chrome pieces? If so, what is the trick or advise to get it into the channel. Seems like a huge PITA.
I ordered some trim that arrived, it's used but not too beat up.
Has anyone installed these chrome pieces? If so, what is the trick or advise to get it into the channel. Seems like a huge PITA.
I never personally installed the stainless steel lock trim in the rear side window- but I had a “automotive window install professional “ do it and he THRASHED the trim. Got really bent up.
So my take on it is — it’s really hard to install the metal trim perfectly.
It’s really fragile and easy to tweak. There’s got to be some technique to install it that doesn’t damage it - but my guy obviously didn’t know it or have the right tool.
So my take on it is — it’s really hard to install the metal trim perfectly.
It’s really fragile and easy to tweak. There’s got to be some technique to install it that doesn’t damage it - but my guy obviously didn’t know it or have the right tool.
I'm OK with leaving the chrome out of the front window; however, my OCD is fighting me on having the back windows with one with and one without chrome.
I presume you are pulling the side glass to fix rust?
From inside the truck, pry out the window, seal, and trim all at once using plastic tire irons or a handful of screwdrivers. Don't remove the seal or chrome trim from the glass. Reinstall with soap and 1/4" rope.
There is no need to remove the chrome trim from the rear side glass rubber when you do it this way.
I presume you are pulling the side glass to fix rust?
From inside the truck, pry out the window, seal, and trim all at once using plastic tire irons or a handful of screwdrivers. Don't remove the seal or chrome trim from the glass. Reinstall with soap and 1/4" rope.
There is no need to remove the chrome trim from the rear side glass rubber when you do it this way.
Unfortunately, I purchased the truck and the previous owner had done some front end body work and had the truck repainted. When they put the back windows back in, one of the back windows was missing the chrome.
Thanks for the offer 87CRUSR! I recall seeing a thread about using automotive window welting vs trying to get the flimsy chrome trim back in. I may hit you up for that filler if I completely destroy the chrome trim I picked up last week in the process of trying to install it.
This is that thread: Public Service Announcement; De-Chroming Windows - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/public-service-announcement-de-chroming-windows.67729/
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Hey 87Crusr, that is a mighty generous price. how long is the extra strip? I would need enough to cover both back windows?
