New Winch - A few questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Ugly Dwarf

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Threads
22
Messages
199
Location
East Bay - San Francisco Bay Area
I just bought a new front bumper for my 80 series and got an Engo 12K winch with synthetic line to put up there.

I mounted the bumper and hooked up the winch last night, but came up with a couple questions. 1) Securing and placement of solinoid. 2) Spooling synthetic cable onto the drum.

Mounting the solinoid:

The mount worked just fine, but even when I slid it all the way to the motor side of the winch, it was obstructed by (what I believe to be) the "radiator" (?) for the A/C system by about 1".


Winch Solinoid Hits Here - Small.jpg

I was able to move the solinoid further out on the winch, so it now hung over the motor and now clears the A/C "radiator", but it now only holds onto the rail with one of the two brackets.

From the "inside" of the bumper:

Winch Rail Inside - Small.jpg

From "outside" (or in front) of the bumper:

Winch Rail Outside - Small.jpg

It seems to me that the solinoid is something that doesn't get a lot of movement and I'm really just trying to keep it from moving around when I drive, but I'm concerned about how well it will stay on there with only one bracket.

Any thoughts or feedback on this?

Spooling the line:

I have the question of spooling the line onto the winch. The line came already on, but from what I understand, it's necessary to spool it all (or all but the last five wraps) out and the pull it back on under load. With steel cable, I understand it should be spooled on neatly in rows. I was reading the other night and came across a number of people (not on here, but some other four wheeling page) stating that with synthetic line, you need to spool it onto the drum in a 'sort of criss cross manner'... the thought being that rope will slip between itself, getting bound up and making a real mess when trying to un-spool it.

Has anyone spelled out the "right way" to spool synthetic line onto the drum? I did a few cursory searches, but either my Google Fu is weak tonight or it hasn't been addressed.

Winch Solinoid Hits Here - Small.jpg


Winch Rail Inside - Small.jpg


Winch Rail Outside - Small.jpg
 
Spool syn line as cable = neat and in tight rows under load. I sell and spool a bunch of syn line and winch a lot and have never had issues of line slipping between underlying layers. The issues like this I've seen are because the line was not spooled on under tension. If you crisscross the line you will reduce the capacity of your drum.
 
Spool syn line as cable = neat and in tight rows under load. I sell and spool a bunch of syn line and winch a lot and have never had issues of line slipping between underlying layers. The issues like this I've seen are because the line was not spooled on under tension. If you crisscross the line you will reduce the capacity of your drum.

Good answers...any idea "how much" tension??

Thanks
 
Good answers...any idea "how much" tension??

Thanks

Manufacturer spec on Samson's Amsteel Blue (domestically made Dyneema SK75) which is the winch line we sell at Southeast Overland is 5% of MBS (minimum break strength)...which on 3/8" line which has an ABS (average break strength) of 19,600 lbs and a MBS of 17,600 lbs....so...(deep breath) 5% of 17,600 lbs is 880 lbs. That is the technical answer.

Hooking up your vehicle to another and winching up a hill, or to a tree, should work well for you. I often spool line back onto the shop vehicles with hand pressure and dragging the line across the fairlead and that works well for me. For best results though put additional weight on the line to hit that 5% mark.
 
Mounting the solinoid:

The mount worked just fine, but even when I slid it all the way to the motor side of the winch, it was obstructed by (what I believe to be) the "radiator" (?) for the A/C system by about 1".

It seems to me that the solinoid is something that doesn't get a lot of movement and I'm really just trying to keep it from moving around when I drive, but I'm concerned about how well it will stay on there with only one bracket.

Any thoughts or feedback on this?

How about pulling off the solenoid box and drilling new holes and relocating the bracket so both attach the bracing tubes?
 
If you crisscross the line you will reduce the capacity of your drum.

That's what I was thinking as I read that theory about "criss crossing the line", but there were a number of guys jumping on board that concept.

I guess that goes to prove that just because a bunch of people on the internet agree on something, it doesn't make them right.
 
How about pulling off the solenoid box and drilling new holes and relocating the bracket so both attach the bracing tubes?

I may do this.

The bumper came with a bracket for remote mounting a solinoid (for a Warn). You can see the mounting holes on the bumper in the foreground of the "Outside" bumper/winch picture above. Unfortunately, the bracket is not a direct bolt up application with my solinoid. On the upside, I'm sure I can use some of my hillbilly fabrication skills to mount my solinoid on it.

If that doesn't work or I don't like how it works, I may buy some longer cable and remote mount the solinoid under my hood.

Thanks
 
I may do this.

The bumper came with a bracket for remote mounting a solinoid (for a Warn). You can see the mounting holes on the bumper in the foreground of the "Outside" bumper/winch picture above. Unfortunately, the bracket is not a direct bolt up application with my solinoid. On the upside, I'm sure I can use some of my hillbilly fabrication skills to mount my solinoid on it.

If that doesn't work or I don't like how it works, I may buy some longer cable and remote mount the solinoid under my hood.

Thanks

I had the same problem with my MT bumper and ENGO solenoid.

I wound getting s strips of aluminum from Home Depot and bolted those to 2 bars that hook onto the rails then bolted the solenoid box to the 2 aluminum strips.

Now the solenoid hangs off to the passenger a little and clears everything.

image-3356590206.jpg


image-334491340.jpg
 
Last edited:
I had the same problem with my MT bumper and ENGO solenoid.

I wound getting s strips of aluminum from Home Depot and bolted those to 2 bars that hook onto the rails then bolted the solenoid box to the 2 aluminum strips.

Now the solenoid hangs off to the passenger a little and clears everything.

Any chance u took pics of this process? I just mounted my engo in my MT tube and have exact same issue (trans cooler interference)

Thanks.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom