New to Me 01 LC

[tacoduck]

subbed. nice work.

 

[Haring Bagsik]

The route I decided to go, based on 2001LC's specs and what I read, was with steel tees, part number 84543. The pass throughs are 5/8", and the tee is 1/2". I was able to get them locally (at O'Reilly's) same day for $12/ea before tax, but they're also available online (e.g. via Amazon). If they last for twice as long as the plastic OEM ones (and I'm sure they will), I'll have gotten my moneys worth. Scratch that, I'll have gotten my moneys worth either way, because they look better and I have more faith in them.

Is this the same one - https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons...=1474997304&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=84543+steel

 

[snoname]

Is this the same one - https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons...=1474997304&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=84543+steel

Yup. I'd check local parts stores to see if there are any that you could get same/next day as they're priced the same.
Advance
O'Reilly
Napa

 

[snoname]

Long story short, I don't like the idea of getting stranded somewhere and not being able to get specialty hoses; I would much rather be able to use a hose that any redneck at any shop can get me on a day's notice.

Found the hose I wanted after a bit of running around today... Because the tees are 1/2" instead of 14mm like stock, I found a proper sized hose for them that can be used to replace both the lower hoses (same idea as the hose I posted yesterday that replaces the four up top), Gates 18622. I'm not thrilled about the price, but the fit should now be as good as OEM without having to crank down on hose clamps to the point of damaging the hoses.

So, at the end of the day, I'm in this set up ~$25 for metal tees, ~$50 for nice Gates hoses. The hoses can be bought at pretty much any parts store across the US and the tees won't break, so there's a lot of peace of mind for me...

 

[snoname]

The spark plugs aren't all that awful, but since I have absolutely no idea when they were last done, I figure I might as well do them and have the peace of mind knowing when they were done and with what. I picked up some Denso SK20R11 plugs to keep things simple and (knock on wood) hopefully trouble free.

My power steering leak is still present, guess that'll happen when you don't actually do anything to fix the issue... oops. I'll finally be re-clamping the line after detailing the engine bay, so I should have a better idea of where my leaks are once that all happens.

And then of course, last but not least, there's brakes. I did end up getting Hawk LTS pads for the front and rear as well as new blank rotors all around. I've had a lot of success with this combination in other vehicles I've had and worked on, and am curious to see how it works out on a 100, since all I've seen is that a couple guys run them on their 80s. I realize they'll surely be more dusty, but I don't exactly keep my 100 shined up, so that doesn't much bother me. If we're being honest, I probably haven't washed it in the past 8-9 months. I'm not really looking forward to having to do a brake job all around, but it'll be nice finally having brakes that work properly (read: better than stock) and a functional handbrake. Major props to TJ (PabloCruise) for helping me out and lending me his 54mm socket for the fronts

I finally ordered some hood struts to motivate me to work on the LC and decided I'd try out some that I hadn't seen and were cheap: $24 shipped via Amazon Prime (link) from a company called BOXI. New hardware was included that changes the retention from a captive ball to what I'm used to. Work great so far, we'll see if that changes over time.

So then I did the spark plugs... that was fun. One wasn't even threaded in all the way. In doing this, I also got to see the condition of my ignition coils, which was bad. Five of them look to be original and are cracking, three look to have been replaced at some point. I don't have a misfire yet, but I'll be taking a road trip at the end of this month and putting around 5000 miles on my LC. I figured I'd be better off with new ones and could take the opportunity to do some quick and dirty testing on the cheap set I've seen mentioned a few times here sold by ECCPP for $69 shipped via Amazon Prime (link). Yeah, I know, I should just get the Denso 673-1303 and be done with it, but for $69 vs $455 shipped for the set, I'll carry the eight I pull out in case any of these fail while I'm testing them out on my trip.

Cleaned off some of the gunk on my power steering hose, feel pretty confident that clamping it back down with a screw-type clamp should take care of the issue since it's currently loose enough that I can nearly pull the hose off the reservoir nipple with the OEM clamp in place. I haven't worried much about this because I haven't done the brakes yet (so it's been parked).

Picking up fluids tomorrow to change it over to Mobil 1 full synthetic. Will be doing 5w30 with a Wix filter (5k interval to check consumption), trans drain/refill (with oil for the next few changes until it comes out clean), and transfer case/differentials.

Can you guys think of anything I may be neglecting to address before my trip?

 

[LEX]

I see no mention of the serpentine belt. (unless I missed it) I'd take a good look at that.

 

[snoname]

I see no mention of the serpentine belt. (unless I missed it) I'd take a good look at that.

Nope you didn't miss it, I just failed to mention it. Belt looked to be in really good shape when I got the LC, haven't looked at it since. I'll take a peek at it and the tensioner this afternoon when I go home for lunch

 

[snoname]

In doing this, I also got to see the condition of my ignition coils, which was bad. Five of them look to be original and are cracking, three look to have been replaced at some point. I don't have a misfire yet, but I'll be taking a road trip at the end of this month and putting around 5000 miles on my LC. I figured I'd be better off with new ones and could take the opportunity to do some quick and dirty testing on the cheap set I've seen mentioned a few times here sold by ECCPP for $69 shipped via Amazon Prime (link). Yeah, I know, I should just get the Denso 673-1303 and be done with it, but for $69 vs $455 shipped for the set, I'll carry the eight I pull out in case any of these fail while I'm testing them out on my trip.

So these got here yesterday but I was busy dealing with another one of my vehicles. I couldn't find a decent review or pictures, so I figured I might as well work on that.

You can tell they're high quality, because the box says so!

I was surprised but pleased to see that the coils, while crammed in the box, were at least individually wrapped in bubble wrap bags.

I can only assume these are from a batch made in July of 2015?

I haven't thrown these in yet, but they don't look all that awful at first glance. The epoxy resin isn't applied evenly between all of them, but I don't see anything poking out even the least filled one, so it'll probably be fine. I'll be interested to see if there's any correlation between how much resin the ignition coil has and when it fails.

 

[snoname]

So these got here yesterday but I was busy dealing with another one of my vehicles. I couldn't find a decent review or pictures, so I figured I might as well work on that.

You can tell they're high quality, because the box says so!

So, as I'm sure anyone who saw this post would have guessed, they're junk With that said, they've forced me to spend time under the hood and I've become pretty proficient at swapping them back out with my old ones. I'll get a full set of proper Denso ones when the rest of these have failed.

Coming back from Virginia, I started overheating when I got to Colorado from the Kansas border. It wasn't pleasant, but I ran with the heat on to avoid blowing up my motor. Ordered parts, and put them on the shelf because the cold came. It took a particularly awful full blast heat trip down to Denver in 90+ degree weather for me to get around to doing it, but I finally installed a new Gates thermostat (170*), new OEM fan clutch, and new serpentine belt. Topped off the cooling system and bled it, haven't had any issues since.

Took the Land Cruiser up Kelly Flats (via the bypass, I know my limitations ), was pretty surprised with how well it did... No overheating (this was as true a test as you get, right?), no significant damage from running the trail (crunched the pinch rail by the driver door, snapped the passenger rear mud flap). I am, however, now losing a whole lot of power steering fluid. Haven't yet verified where the fluid is coming from, but I'm guessing the steering rack since I'm at just under 260k miles and it's likely the original one.

Picked up a nice shiny set of DT headers from the classifieds section (thanks again @77HesterSue !) - it isn't super awful, but I do have a cracked passenger side manifold that's noticeable on cold starts in the winter. Might as well upgrade while I'm fixing the issue, right? I figure I can put the headers in at the same time as the steering rack (?) before my next trip to Virginia, which is coming up quick...

 

[snoname]

Also, for the steering rack, I figure I'll definitely do poly bushings while I'm in there. Everything I've read has been threads about people doing the Superpro SPF2470K bushings ($68.86 shipped from here) but I don't mind having my rig be a test mule and I'm used to making extra work for myself.

I just ordered the Ricochet Polyurethane Technologies L30 bushings ($43.00 shipped from their eBay store here). US company based in California, 90 duro rating, Para-Aramid fibers mixed in. Look forward to better steering feel in addition to the rest of the benefits from the work I'll have to do in the near future...

 

[Hokie LX]

Picked up a nice shiny set of DT headers from the classifieds section (thanks again @77HesterSue !) - it isn't super awful, but I do have a cracked passenger side manifold that's noticeable on cold starts in the winter. Might as well upgrade while I'm fixing the issue, right? I figure I can put the headers in at the same time as the steering rack (?) before my next trip to Virginia, which is coming up quick...

How are you liking the headers? Mine seem to be starting to leak and am looking at buying a set of the DT's.

Also, are you buying another steering rack or rebuilding? Another item on my to-do list.

 

[snoname]

How are you liking the headers? Mine seem to be starting to leak and am looking at buying a set of the DT's.

Also, are you buying another steering rack or rebuilding? Another item on my to-do list.

The headers are still looking great sitting in the box they arrived in... Haha. I missed the window of opportunity before my trip to VA, and my plan has changed to doing it after winter along with the other stuff. I'll take the Land Cruiser off the road and should be able to daily other vehicles (one of my Miatas, E36s, Beemers, or the Silverado I just picked up) so I'll take my time and do it right. As for whether I'm buying a new rack or rebuilding one, I'm not sure yet. I meant to message @PabloCruise (he just replaced his rack), to see if he had done new or rebuilt, and if he still had his old one

 

[tacoduck]

yeah, I knew those injectors were junk. Why swap em if the truck is running fine? Id buy a couple of denso off Amazon and keep em in the glove compartment.

I also swapped my hood struts. big difference.

 

[snoname]

yeah, I knew those injectors were junk. Why swap em if the truck is running fine? Id buy a couple of denso off Amazon and keep em in the glove compartment.

I also swapped my hood struts. big difference.

I was about to leave on a ~3000 mile road trip and half my ignition coils were old and cracked/split. Swapped in the cheap ones to give them a solid test run and see if they were even worth the little they cost. I actually picked up a full set of OEM ones that I’ll be putting in when I do the other work in the springtime

 

[PabloCruise]

The headers are still looking great sitting in the box they arrived in... Haha. I missed the window of opportunity before my trip to VA, and my plan has changed to doing it after winter along with the other stuff. I'll take the Land Cruiser off the road and should be able to daily other vehicles (one of my Miatas, E36s, Beemers, or the Silverado I just picked up) so I'll take my time and do it right. As for whether I'm buying a new rack or rebuilding one, I'm not sure yet. I meant to message @PabloCruise (he just replaced his rack), to see if he had done new or rebuilt, and if he still had his old one

Oh man, I would have given you the old rack. I asked if anyone wanted it in the How-To thread: How To: Replace your own steering rack

No one replied, so I called CVJ Axle in Denver and they sent me a tag to ship it down to them. Maybe they just finished re-building it?

I went new, genuine Toyota. That is cool you got 260k out of yours, I got 167k.

 

[PabloCruise]

Also, for the steering rack, I figure I'll definitely do poly bushings while I'm in there. Everything I've read has been threads about people doing the Superpro SPF2470K bushings ($68.86 shipped from here) but I don't mind having my rig be a test mule and I'm used to making extra work for myself.

I just ordered the Ricochet Polyurethane Technologies L30 bushings ($43.00 shipped from their eBay store here). US company based in California, 90 duro rating, Para-Aramid fibers mixed in. Look forward to better steering feel in addition to the rest of the benefits from the work I'll have to do in the near future...

Don't forget the lube! When I replaced my old rack, the bushings were fine, and it was going to be a PITA to get the new factory bushings out of the rack, so I left them, but I used a poly on the big "D" shaped clamp. It squeaks...

 

[snoname]

Oh man, I would have given you the old rack. I asked if anyone wanted it in the How-To thread: How To: Replace your own steering rack

No one replied, so I called CVJ Axle in Denver and they sent me a tag to ship it down to them. Maybe they just finished re-building it?

I went new, genuine Toyota. That is cool you got 260k out of yours, I got 167k.

Well crap. Wonder what they'd quote me for it vs new OEM price... Did they give you a "core refund" for sending it to them? I'm not sure if mine is original or not, unfortunately I got very limited service records (aka none) even though I bought it from the original owners.

Don't forget the lube! When I replaced my old rack, the bushings were fine, and it was going to be a PITA to get the new factory bushings out of the rack, so I left them, but I used a poly on the big "D" shaped clamp. It squeaks...

I'll definitely bug you more this spring when I've got it off the road to get to work on it, because I know very well I'll forget a bunch of stuff

I'm also working on getting a few more parts from @savirc and @bozncsurf since I've decided to have fun with this and start doing a mild build

 

[PabloCruise]

The lady on the phone said she could not give me much, I told her to just get me the shipping label so I could get it our of my garage.

I was surprised Toyota did not want the core back, I guess they figure they do not want to mess with rebuilding these racks.

 

[Hokie LX]

Well crap. Wonder what they'd quote me for it vs new OEM price... Did they give you a "core refund" for sending it to them? I'm not sure if mine is original or not, unfortunately I got very limited service records (aka none) even though I bought it from the original owners.

I emailed CVJ and they quoted me $358 for them to rebuild my OEM rack but I'd have to pay shipping which is way cheaper than the $1180 it costs online for a new OEM lexus rack.

 

[snoname]

A little late in updating this, but I was fortunate enough to pick up a Doug Thorley catback from @bozncsurf and installed it between my VA trip and my CA trip. Made a little video if anyone is interested comparing stock sound to open header and then to the DT catback. Haven't installed the headers yet, still planning to do that when our weather settles down out here in CO.



Have some more parts in the mail, but have primarily been focusing on some of my other vehicle projects to get stuff out the door and clear up some space at the house.